blueorison

Thanks for the brief thumbs up on this; I was looking at this as my first HK. I really have to sit down and try out the different configurations of grip panels to see if the ergos fit, for me. Wish they came with Dawsons...

Calm your mind. It all flows from your mind. Relax your sphincter. Get .12 to .14 splits.

Thank you! Now I know it has to have it's own length of guiderod. Going to shoot the P10F OR with irons, this Sunday, weather holding. Factory trigger was a lot worse (gritty and chalky, and heavier) vs the P10C I tried. I just saw that CZCustom has milled FFIII/Vortex/Doctor plates for it. I was really looking to the P10F to be the answer to my new primary pistol (plastic+striker), but sadly, the ergos arent as good as the P09, for me. I wanted it to replace my Glocks, which I tolerate but dislike the ergos, on. I wish they copied the classic CZ75/S1/S2/09 ergos. I've been eagerly waiting for the P10F for two years.

Stock is 17lbs IIRC, I 2nd that. I also prefer 15lb ISMI flat springs for minor PF, fwiw.

The G34 guiderod is slightly longer than the P10F? Does anyone know if the P09 Guiderod will fit in the P10F?

I'm the same, actually, I prefer it without. It catches/pinches, for me.

My bad, sir! Misunderstood. Do you use it as a function? I've shot quite a few without/with and it didn't make a difference to my reload. Just wondering!

This has been mentioned, but yeah, after you've become somewhat proficient, you can't watch movies without the suspension of disbelief that "that dude just disarmed Tom Cruise and is on his level or above", yet can't hold a gun, correctly, in the movie poster... much less the movie.

All of those will be fine; I have 0 experience with the Velocity triggers. I think I dry-fired one, and it was pretty good, but not my fave. The CMC will have one of strongest resets out of all of them, as will the G trigger. The reset on the CMC is also pretty short, and there isn't much/any takeup. Some of the triggers will have more travel than the others, you will have to purchase based on whether you prefer some slack in your single stage triggers, or not. The Hiperfire, G, and CMC are all smooth-traveling. You're right on the drop-in/modular aspect of the G trigger. Also pay attention to how they are designed; some hit harder than others (important note, regardless of what primers/ammo you plan on using).

Thanks for sharing with the Americans! I really enjoy the Stock 3 in 10mm; softest shooting 10mm (the Perfect 10 was nice, too). I think your shared data points on the open configuration will help many of the Americans that wish to go this route; comparing it with the CZs, whether it be load or porting, I've seen the Czechmates be super flippy. I've not seen vids of them being shot, so I can't comment, but IRL, that is how they look, to me. Per your post, perhaps this is improper porting.

Very well said. I balance shooting sports with my art focuses such that I only go to about 2 matches a month and don't practice or train, but it's still enjoyable, for me. You have to find what makes it fun, FOR YOU. Stay FLAVA

As the wiser people have said on this thread; it comes down to mindset. Some shoot better on the first stage, because they are more focused on what matters; some have to warm up. Ignore the fact that every first stage is in fact the first stage. It is not. It is the next stage you will shoot. Every stage you shoot is the very next stage. Every shot is the next shot you have. Treat every shot like the very last shot you have available you to take, on earth. Every shot matters the most. This is how I train others (don't ask me how I train myself, because I don't train or practice/I'm horrible - I spend time in other focuses). When this shift in mindset takes, I see a the percentage of hits where they should be, increase at an insane rate. P.s. Also, trust your skills. Have confidence in the knowledge you know how to make that shot, then make that shot. It is your last .' )

Uh.. not sure what you're asking bc you answered your own question... on the gen 5 G34. Some marketing rep claimed they figured out something or the other and they might have even claimed the weight was the same or didnt matter. I didn't put much into what the marketing rep said, because, marketing. That cutout didnt ameliorate any perceived handling deficiencies as compares to the 17, however.

Oh, let's all be honest, the appeal has hardly to do with longshots. Also, for practical purposes, most do not cc a carbine. For the lack of frequency (a couple of shots out of 100s), Id say it would match the frequency/rarity that necessity would dictate. However, such long shots were practically necessary, recently, to end real threats, with a handgun.

Parallax/edge quality for the price point, at the low (4x) max mag ranges were acceptable (for a .22LR plinking). At 1x, I cannot (with integrity), tell you which was better, as they were not side by side. I can guess at memory; and it would be Vortex/Atibal, Bushnell 2nd. I would look up videos on youtube of each scope and take notes on the 1x end, but honestly, as I mentioned before, IMHO (because most of them are "good enough" for budget scopes at 1x), I would prioritize the reticle/how accurate the turrets track (this is important). Hope that helps.

This is awesome. I love shooting handguns at longer ranges; would like to see poppers at 100yds... not every club can access 100yd bays, but even 50yd US poppers would be great.. The fear/opposition is that it would alienate new shooters, but I think having it on one stage once in a while would actually broaden their perspectives on accuracy/capabilities of a handgun.

This is the best part. Thanks for sharing. I look forward to checking them out; not a huge PCC guy until rollerlocks come out in AR format, but happy to hear they work.

Echo this; shoot what shoots best for YOU. The 17 handles/transitions a lot better than the 34, for me. I shoot multiple gens of the 17s and 34s (RTF/MOS/3/4/etc.); all the 17's handle better, most likely due to weight distribution. You could cut up the slide all you want, but it'd still be nose-heavy. Side by side, the 34 has softer perceived recoil. However, this doesn't really matter on the clock or on paper. Shoot what shoots best for you. Hope that helps.

1. They work, are low profile; if you're not sure how to install them and don't want to risk it on a $$ part; get an experienced 2011/1911 shooter to mentor you and buy him some beer.

This, sir, is pure platinum.

Also another "hell no", for me. Before all these aftermarket triggers came out for all these plastic guns, the M&P with a good APEX install had the best glass/glass trigger out of any plastic gun. It still probably does. The XD gets super light down to the M&P lb-age, but a good smith can get an APEX on the M&P to feel like... I can't even describe how good the trigger is. You know how everyone thinks a good 1911 trigger is the gold standard? A great APEX install feels like it has less backpressure on the trigger vs a 1911... I've shot many APEX installs in M&Ps; only felt 3 that were on that level. But it's possible.

Yeah but what are the extra 5 secs for?

*channeling Full House (which I love)* You got it, dude!

This is news! Thanks for sharing. I look forward to watching this dude shred with accuracy... with a CZ!

Welcome! *coughCZcough* STI as a company has gone through large shifts across the spectrum of bizops, products, etc. Look forward to seeing offerings you're not used to seeing from STI. If you're looking for an all-around gun, unless STI's are built correctly (differing opinions on that), CZs tend to be more reliable (with a broad range of ammunition, or otherwise), in my experience. But who cares, the real answer is to get both.