sasquatch981

I know it's odd, but I have (5) Kimber .22 mags that came with my conversion that I bought used. Apparently after taking them apart, I noticed there is not the "plunger" in the base of the tube that locks the base plate in place. I know the "plunger" is used for the spring to sit upon and slightly "compress" the spring. Since the base plate is so hard to remove anyway I had no problems. I believe these were removed after the AWB ended to allow for more rounds in the magazine 16-17 versus the original 10. Now however, the springs are too weak to push the follower up the magazine to feed the last rounds. So..... what I am looking for is a source for springs that will fit my need, possible slighter stiffer, and longer than the stock springs. The stock springs are: 5.5" long .355" in Total Diameter .024" wire coil diamater So I guess I would be looking for something maybe 6-6.5" long with the same specs, or maybe .025-.026 wire diameter. Any ideas where to look for such an animal? Thanks.

So I read on the caspian website you can order a frame from them, but you need to specify whether it is for a .45 or .38S. What is the difference, and which one to pick if building a .40SW. Lastly, if I plan on using a ramped barrel, is this all just academic, or is there something I really need to watch for. Thanks.

That's exactly what is happening. That is why I asked you if you ever used Siloutte for your powder. When I ran Competition, the powder would be burnt up well before the bullet was even half-way down the barrel. I switched to Siloutte (Slower powder) and the problems stopped.

SSI Website

You can use a CED 8000. It's the one that looks like a game-boy. I had one for awhile, and used it for my Air-sfot before I sold it. It has an adjustable sensitivity that allows you to dial it in for an air-soft.

Have you tried using RS Silouette? When I used Competition in my carbine load it was all over the place. I mean my groups at 20-yards were the size of a paper plate. I switched to Silouette, and it came down to 1" or so. I may have to break out the competition again, to try a new batch.

I am thinking of building a new "edge-like" pistol. Long and wide dustcover, unique slide etc. You know the basics already. However can you have the frame milled with a rail to accept a light like the X-300 or M-6? I guess the question is: Is there enough material to be milled away to allow the light to fit, or must you buy the "tactical" frame?

I think this might be waht you are looking for. This was from a thread in the "Recommended Resources" section. Tech-wear Alternative

What's a "PI" deal? All that is running through my head right now is Magnum PI and I don't think that is right.

RRA 9mm upper, Heavy Buffer, VM-Hytech block, and Un-modifed uzi mags is all you need. That is the set-up I have. It runs with the 1.5lb Jard trigger I have it and all I have to do to switch uppers is pull the pins, drop the mag-block (using the standard mag release) and switch uppers. I even leave the heavy buffer in it and have had no problems.

I shoot a 9mm AR in a local tactical rifle match. The last batch of bullets seemed to be "sluggish". Meaning I could really feel the bolt cycle with each shot and it seemed like I was "waiting" for it to cycle for the next shot. Maybe I have reached that level of awareness now and just never noticed it before. However I just changed bullets to Berry's 115's, and ran out of winchester small rifle primers and used Federal Small Pistol Primers and started to notice the sluggishnes. So with that said any load recipes using: Berry's 115's Federal Small Pistol Primers Ramshot Siloutte Current Powder Puff Load: Berry's 115's Federal Small Pistols 4.5 Gr silouette 1.141 OAL Thanks

I have to agree with MPolans, and Nemo. Blade-tech DOH is the way to go unless you are shooting open. I have been told by several GM's that until you are to the point in your shooting abilities that you need to worry about .1 second being the difference in the match, the security of the DOH far outweighs the "perceived speed" of the open-type race holsters. Here is another thing to ponder... Think of how many stages you will have in any given match, usually 5-7 for a club match. Next consider how many stages will start with the gun on a table, in a box, etc. Usually at least one stage. No need for a "speed" holster. Next look at how many stages where you will start away from the first target array, and you will need to make some form of movement before you get to shoot getting out of a chair, moving around a barricade or table etc. Usually 3-4. Again no real need for a "speed" holster as you will be taking a step or two before needing to draw your gun. So in the end that leaves only a 2-3 stages that you will draw and immediately need to engage a target. Even saying that a race holster gives you a .5 second advantage on a draw over a DOH ( I know totally ludicrous, but just using simple math), that is a total of 1-1.5 seconds over the match. Now knowing my abilities , I "KNOW" for a fact there is alot of work "I" need to do in a match before the 1.0-1.5 second I am saving on draw is going to make a difference in the match results. I can work on movement, target engagement, sight pictures, transitions, entering and leaving a box, etc. and see much bigger gains in speed over my draw. I would much rather have the security of a holster that I know is not going to take tumble because I forgot to flip the do-dad in place, or it gets bumped out of place. I have seen a number of shooters either drop there pistol in the dirt, or "flip" it it the dirt at the load and make ready command. Just my .02

So I ran my bone stock M&P through an IPSC match today. I have standard .40 M&P with all stock fire control, and recoil springs. The load I am using is 3.5 grains of Ramshot Competition behind a 155gr Berry's Plated bullet. When I chrono the load it comes in at right around 130. So here is what happened. 1) Gun jammed with bullet in chamber and another round partially stripped from magazine. Looked like a double feed. (Chalked it up to a double feed and moved on) 2) Next ran through stage and afteer about the 4-5th shot pulled the trigger and "click". In the heat of battle racked the slide and moved on and it worked. I though I pulled the old "chicken finger" and did not allow the trigger to reset before pulling the trigger. for the next shot. (Chalked it up to a chicken finger and moved on) 3) Finally ran the classifier and had the same thing happen as listed directly above. However this time I thought I only loaded the magazine partially full. However when I racked the slde, I noted this time, there was no round that ejected, but a new round chambered, and then finished the stage. So here is what I am thinking. I think the recoil spring (gun only has a 200 round thorugh it) is "too strong" for the minor power factor load. It seems to have ooompf to eject the spent case, but does not always have enough slide travel to strip of the nexct round in the magazine. Does this sound reasonable, or am I missing something? That would seem to explain 2&3, but I am a little stumped on #1. I think I may move to a 13lb recoil spring and try that. Anything else I should be thinking of?

The first mate of a pirate ship asked the captain, " why is it everytime the english come to fight, you always ask me to get your red shirt?" Just then an English ship crested the horizon and started to sail towards the pirates. The captain replied to the first mate, "You see MR. Jones, I don't want the men to see me bleed when we are in battle, Now Mr. Jones get get my red shirt, we have a battle on our hands." A firece battle ensued, and the english boarded the pirate ship. Eventually after a hard fought fight the pirates prevailed, and sailed away with their booty. This continued over the next weeks, each time the pirates prevailing in battle, and each time the captain wore his red shirt. The next day the captain was on the bridge with the first mate when an English Armada with 30 ships appeared on the horizon. The first mate asked, "Captain, should I fetch your red shirt?" The captain looked at the armada rapily approaching, and replied, " NO Mr. Jones, go fetch my Brown Pants"

So I have been reloading on my XL650 for about 5+ years now. I bought it used and after getting it calibrated, it has worked like a charm. I would say I have put a total of about 10-15K rounds through through it mixed between 9mm and .40SW. The gentleman the helped me set it up told me that for .40SW and 9MM all you really needed to change was the toolhead (with dies and powder measure) and the locator buttons. Everything else if set up for .40 (shell plate, arm bushing, casefeed adapter, funnel, and body bushing) should work just fine for 9mm. Now (just recently in the the last 2000 rounds, I am starting to get really bad primer problems with them not lining up with the shell plate, and gettng crushed. Like on the order of 10-15 per 100. Not only is this really annoying, but it is getting expensive with those dang little Federal 100's. This has just seem to happen recently, and I also noticed there seems to be some "flex" in the handle when pulling down, or pushing up (priming). I even think I see that the entire shell platform seems to "twist" slightly when the handle is pushed into the "prime" position. It has the aluminum roller handle and strong mount. Any suggestions, or should I just send it to Dillon for a refurb, and get the proper cailber conversion parts needed. I really like the idea just switching toolheads, as it makes the change over really fast so if I don't need to change I would perfer not to. Thanks.

Well the old story goes, Mr. Lamborghini did not like the fact he had to continually have to have his Ferrari tuned and maintained, so he decided to make his own car. Granted a Lamborghini or Ferrari are not near as a reliable as a Honda or Toyota, but then again we all have to make our own choices. STI "revolutionized" the pistol market with a Frame/Grip component system. Glock revolutionized the pistol market by making a polymer pistol. Now we have S&W, Taurus, H&K, SIG, and Oh yeah Springfield. Well I guess Springfield went about it a different way, they bought someone else’s pistol design (HS2000) and made it their own. I don't begrudge a guy a chance to make/duplicate a new product that may be better or worse than what is out there. I mean if there was not competition for products, there would be no innovation, and we would all be driving Model T's

I just started making some bases to use the Bo-Mar/Champion sights which can be fitted after some milling to your Novak cut'd slide. I have them for the standard 19/2011 slides and for the S&Wesson M&P's. End result looks identical to the Bo-mar low melted installation. For more info send me a PM or E-Mail. Do you have any photos of the M&P with that sight? That would be something I would like to see.

SPS does, but there are all the copyright issues with them, and I don't belive they are imported to the US.

Have not compared them side by side, but the biggest difference right of the bat is capacity. The normal XD only carries 12 in .40. That is the main reason I sold mine.

I was at the match, and actually on the squad with said shooter of magazine. I told him he should put on the classified's for sale: WTS: Slightly Used STI Magazine. $25 Used in only one match.

So I think I am about ready to take the plunge with my first D-SLR. I am thinking of getting one of the "kits" from Costco either the Nikon D60, or the Canon Rebel Xsti. My question is this: Can a D-SLR take video like the Point & Shoots. On all the cameras I have had so far, there has always been a little movie camera icon on the selector switch to take a video. With (2) kids under 3yrs, you never know when you may need to take a video of something they are doing. Thanks for any advice.

I too am dealing with this dreaded problem. Luckily my Brother-In-Law is a podiatrist. Besides the things you are doing, he also suggested that I use a "Strassburg Sock ". This is a wierd little sock with a "long" toe. The toe is then pulled up and the foot is stretched while you sleep. It is supposed to eliminate some of the pain in the morning. I just ordered one, and have yet to recieve it. Strassburg Sock

So I read about the lasercast bullets in the latest bluepress. My question is I understand that these bullets are not moly-coated. Do I need to use any lube when loading, or are these essentially the same as a moly coated bullet, just no coating? I have often thought about trying them, but never went through with them because of the possible lube issue.

What type of velocity are you getting on your ammo. I thought rainiers were not supposed to be used for open because anything over 1250FPS shreds the jacket off? There was a guy at Area 1 this year on our squad that was a Rainier distributor and was shooting open. He was using Montana Golds for that very reason. Sweet looking pistol btw.

One other thought to consider, If possible bring a second pair of shoes. If your an RO and have a chance to bring a second pair to change into 1/2 way through your day, it will reinvigorate your feet. Even if they are the same shoe they will fit just a little different and put pressure points on your feet in different areas. This coupled with a change of good dry socks like mentioned above and you feet will thank you. Being a former UPS driver, I know this made some of the long hot summer days lugging boxes more bearable. Even wearing those sexy brown shorts.