sasquatch981

In one of the threads on a different board I was reading about this very issue, the guy had the same problem. He also got several suggestions, and ended up taking it to a gunsmith after several weeks of no luck. The Gunsmith got it out for the guy, and then............. the guy never asked how he got it out!!!!! This was an 8-page thread At least we are only at 3-pages, and there is a conclusion.....boring conclusion, but a conclusion none the less.

The saga is OVER!!!!!!!! Went to the local hardware store and bought a 12" drill about 1/2 the diameter of the barrel. Chocked it up in my drill and proceeded slowly from the muzzle end. Went in about 3/4 to 1" and then pulled the drill. I little puff of green borsnake came out the muzzle, so I pulled...... With little to no efforr the 14" of snake came right out!!!!! I tried burning it out first, and nothing would even catch fire. I heated both ends, and shot some flames through the gas port hole, and maybe that loosened stuff up. I don't know, but it is out now. No more bore snakes, I am off to the store to buy an OTIS right now!!!!

Latest update. After pulling from the freezer (after 4-days), other than being cold, nothing different. I went and got a new brass rod about 6" long and starting pound from the muzzle end. Starting tapping lightlly, then with more vim and vigor. After the rod started to mushroom, and I had made approximetely 1/8" of in of progress the rod started to bend!!! I think the next step is the propane torch!!! I'll keep you all informed.

So I was at the Northwest Multigun and everything was working great except I had 2 issues with the JM Pro. 1) 4-5 light strikes over the course of the match. 2) 1 double feed where two rounds fed out of the magazine tube instead of one. I had to hold the bolt open and push the second round back into the tube and then rack the first round into the chamber. Any ideas on how to fix the problems? Gun is totally stock except for rifle sights. Thanks

Sorry for the delay guys. The barrel is still sitting on the bench as of right now. I pulled the barrel out, and put in a new one before the match. I was too busy re-zeroing to try anything befrore I left, and then after the match, I went on vacation with the family to the beach. After some much needed time to relax, I will get to work on this. I'm throwing it in the freezer now, and if no luck from that, dump in the hydrogen peroxide to sit for a few days. I thought of posting it for sale with the ad: BCM 18" Stainless Steel Barrel, less than 50 rounds through pipe Free Borsnake Included!!!!

You know how people say don't mess with something before you go to a big match. Well apparently for me that includes cleaning the @#$%^ rifle!!!! So here is what happened. I decided to pop the rifle in half, oil the bolt, and run a boresnake down the barrel, before I put the rifle in the bag to be ready to leave monday morning for the NWMG in Bend. Bag is laying open waiting for the rifle. I drop the brass leader down the barrel from the action side, and begin to pull. I get about 1/2 way through, and when it sticks. So I pull harder thinking it will pull free. Instead it just jams in tighter. Apparently the fat end doubled up and has lodged itself into the chanmber. Now I have the boresnake lodged into the chamber and can not reach any of the nylon from the action side. The part coming out of the barrel tore on the comp. So now I have the snake completely inside the barrel with nothing to grab onto. Here is what I have done. Before you ask if I used the right snake. Yes I used the .223 green "rifle" snake. I tried blowing the snake out with an air compressor. I tried using a cleaning rod, welding rod, and dowel to try and push the snake back through the barrel towards the action. I have soaked the snake with oil in hopes it would at least lube the area, and allow for pushing through. I have attempted to get a hook (homemade, and several large fishing hooks bent straight) to insert into the nylon from the action side and pull out. I have even tried "lightly" to use a very small drill to wind into the fabric and pull it out I tried all this with the rifle assembled, and because why the hell not, I have broken down the complete upper and have the barrel sitting on the bench. Any suggestions? I have searched the net, and saw the "burn it out" method, but don't really want to get melted nylon in the barrel. Best part of it all..... It's a brand new BCM 18" stainless barrel. Not even 50-break-in rounds through it. Just goes to show, I am not going to clean my rifles again!!!!

That target camera is super slick. Especially since no one has to go out and tape the target!!! I can only imagine the "discussion" between Doug, and Scott, as to what distance the target would be placed!!!!

I have an MSAR and if you get the trigger from ratworx you drop in at15 trigger parts into it. My MSAR trigger now rivals my AR!!! Great reset and feel. About 3.5 lbs.

That's the place, awesome thanks. Ordering now!!!

I can't remember where I saw it, but there was place where you could buy fiber optic rods in 1-3 foot sections in all colors under rainbow. I personally like the "purple" being a University of Washington grad. However I can't remember where it was. Does anyone know. Also what is the size of the stock fiber in the pro front sight. Mine broke, and while I welded it together as a quick fix, it is not bright anymore.

I need to get a XXL magazine tube extension cap. I have a JM Pro 930 with the XL Cap, and if you extend it to the XXL, I can get one more round in. I see the post I made about the "930JM's in stock anywhere" is still going strong, and that is how I got mine, so lets see how this works for an end cap!!!!

I am working with a ballistic calculator and need to get the ballistic coefficient for the Montana Gold 55GR .223. Anyone have this lying around? Thanks

Why not make one of the plates a no shoot plate? That will increase the "oops" factor.

Thanks ATVMAN, I called and was not disappointed. I will be making my order next week when the throw levers get back in stock. Hopefully Thursday.

I have been following the 9+ page thread about this scope and think I am ready get one. Who has the best price on this. I know Vortex has a M.A.P. program so everyone lists MSRP, but there are deals to be made. Anyone know of a local shop that may be willing to give a deal if more than (1) is purhcased at the same time? I have a buddy that wants one too. Can't hurt to try and bundle the purchase.

I have the same brake on my AUG, it's great!!! You won't be disappointed

So I have a new rifle, and the some of the talking heads say you need to "break-in" in the barrel with 1-shot, clean barrel, 1-shot, clean, then repeat for the first 50 shots!!!! Other talking heads say there is no need to break in a barrel at all. I'm just thinking that besides the tedium, and all day process of shoot, clean, shoot, clean, shoot, clean, shoot, clean, shoot, clean, ZZZZZZZZZZZZ wake up, shoot, clean, etc. is not really that needed. I mean if you shoot 10- rounds, then clean, and then 10 more and clean, maybe multi-tasking while sighting in the scope that this should be good. What say the great Enos talking heads? This is a new stainless steel BCM 18" barrel built into a VLTOR upper for 3-gun.

Pardon the newb question, but I am fornt sight impaired So I have a new Pro 5" .40 and it shoots about 2" low at 15-yards, and about 3.5-4" low at 25-yards. Shooting a plate rate at 15-yards means the front sight is total obscuring the plates. So if my backwoods inteligence is up to snuff today, that means I would need a taller from sight correct? Or do I have that backwards? What are some good options for sights? Are there any adjustables other than the Dawsons? Thanks

Is "SSS" speed shooters specialties, or someone else?

I missed the .40 Pro slide assembly in the classifieds by 20 minutes!!!! Has anyone bought one direct from S&W and if so how much?

Hey Chris, Isn't the Kimber Bomar cut different from the norm, or is it standard. Also what would you recommend for a sight. I am kinda thinking of the Heine Slant Pro for Kimber Adjustable. Just take the adjustable one out. Matt

While changin the MSH on the pistol, I managed to whack the sight blade and the Beautiful MIM broke. Is it possible to buy just the "blade", and replace it? What other options are there for fixing without the need for a total replacement of the sight if any. Also if the sight must be replaced, is there a fixed sight that fits the Kimber adjustable cut? Thanks.

So I have a cz-712 with the nordic extension to make it 8+1. However there were no instructions with the magazine spring on length to trim it. I swear the spring is like 6-feet long!!!!! Any suggestions on where to start, I realize this will be a trial and error, but I need a place to start. Thanks.

Are you guys suggesting the use of a small base die "after" the trim station, thus sizing the case twice? Also what small base die would you recommend?

So I have borrowed a buddies LE Wilson Case Guage to use while setting up a 1050 to prep .223 brass, and I have an EGW Chamber Checker Guage. Here is the set-up. Universsal Decapper Swage Empty Size and Trim with 1200 Empty Neck Size to clear any shavings. Now when I use the Wilson Case guage 90% of the rounds drop right in and fall out when turned over. The neck is trimmed to just below the edge of the rim. Some rounds (5%) when inserted fall in, but the last 1/8 to 3/16 of the case is still sitting above the flat edge. A gentle push will then seat the round in the guage, again measuring the proper length, but I need to "poke" them out of the guage gently. I would say may 1-2 cases per 100 or so simply will not fit the guage at all. I run these same checked rounds through my EGW chamber checker and I seem to get the same results. When I load these rounds, they shoot fine out of my MSAR, and Buddies AR with Noveske Barrel. However when I borrowed a buddies Colt CRP-18 for a local 3-gun match, it worked fine for 6-rounds, then turned into a bolt action. Borrowing another rifle, the same ammo worked fine the rest of the day. So, what am I doing wrong, and what do I need to do to make the brass dependable in "every" rifle I might shoot just like factory ammo would? The brass used is mixed once fired. Any help would be appreciated.