sasquatch981

From looking at the topic on the reliability of the .40 Singlestack post, I have a question. It looks as if the reliability may be an issue of the feed ramp on the barrel when installed in the pistol. I was planning on having a Caspian race-ready frame built into a L10 gun using .40. Any suggestions on which barrels would be better than others? I saw in the other .40 post that Benny Hill has used a Shuemann Bushing barrel with good success, what about a bull barrel, and does the ramp cut (wilson/nowlin, or clark/para) make a difference in feed ramp geometry? Thanks Matt

So if I understand correctly I can add "agrip" to a glock grip?

Erik, Try Ramshot Competition. It is a nice cheap powder, and on par with Vhit320. When I ran out of Vhit, I switched to Ramshot with no discernable difference in performance, and a $15 difference in price for a 4lb keg. Matt

Do the after-market berrels for Glock 22's' and 35's from KKM and Barsto have better case support than the factory barrels. I read all too much about KB's and now before I make a purchase I am getting nervous. I reload my own ammo as most of the people on this forum and use MasterBlasters Molycoated bullets. Is this a big "NO-NO" in a glock barrel, or am I just paranoid? Matt

I think this is one of the great benefits of being a lefty, as opposed to several guns that are not as lefty freindly as the 1911. I originally shot with a Beretta 92 beacuse it was a very lefty friendly pistol. I had switched the mag release to the other side to allow my (left) thumb to activate the mag release. After about 2-3 matches I switched it back because it was just so easy to tap the button with the index finger for reloads. When I switched to the 1911 it was just habit, and I have been doing it that way ever since. When I buy new guns now, that is something I look for. Matt

Is the frame on the 17 and the 34 the same except for the length at the front? The reason I ask is that I heard that there is a longer overhang at the rear of the 34 "beavertailish". As glocks tear up my hands, I am looking for something that won't do that. Glock 20/21, re-worked grip, or maybe a 34/35 if the rear is different. Thanks for any help. Matt

I'm in the same boat, except that I have big hands, and Glock Perfection seems to eat webbing between my thumb and index finger. To make matters worse Glock Perfection is perfect for right handed person, not so perfect for a lefty, but close. So the steam started coming out of my ears when I was thinking , and POW!!!! it hit me. I think rather than buy a cheap glock an goober up the frame, or buy just a frame from glockmeister for $150+ and gooder that up , I am going to practice on>>>>>>>>Drum roll>>>>>>>>>an Airsoft. Yep $25 for a cheap one, and I can grind to my hearts content. After all it's only the grip angle I am concerned about, not the internals. I will keep everyone posted on my progress with pics too. Matt

Thanks for the info. Maybe someday, I'll read the whole forum topic list, and find "noob" with my name in it, and learn to use the search function. Matt

I was wondering if the top end of a G35 is interchangeable with a 3rd Generation G22. The reason I ask is that I may have a deal on a good G22, and later I may want to get a G35. Do you guys think it is better to get the G35 outright, or get the G22 and upper later. This is basically going to be the under the bed gun, with the ocassional production outing. I wanted it for the intregral light rail. Just testing the waters for opinions. Thanks Matt

Thanks for all the info guys, that really helped out alot. I will did through my Brownells catalog right now. Matt

Hi I am fairly new to the 1911 scene, but have a general understanidng of the workings of a 70 series pistol as I have an STI. Is it possible to build a 70 series pistol on a 80 series frame? Or are the cuts to the receiver made in such a way as to not allow it? The reason I ask is that Caspian has Recon Rail- Receivers on special, and I thought these would make a nice L10 gun. Thanks for any help. Matt

Like the title says, is a ramped barrel needed for a single stack .40? The reason I ask is that I see both ramped and unramped barrels for all the major cailbers, but when you ask anyone they say that a ramped barrel in .45 is not needed, but what about .40. Does anyone know if a Trojan has a ramped barrel. I am trying to decide between a STI Trojan, and a local custom built Caspian in .40 for L10. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks, now I will sleep better at night.

This has probably been answered before, but I could not find it. What happens when a "live" primer that is seated gets mixed in with fired brass, and then gets to the "de-priming" station on a 650? Will the primer punch pin ignite the primer, or simply push it out. I get nervous when re-loading for this reason. Please somebody put me at ease Matt

I use MasterBlaster's for several reasons: 1) Cheap 2) Tom the owner really stands behind his product, and is willing to work with you. 3) Very Consistant 4) Less Powder 5) Most importantly he lives about 10 milrs away, and I can pick them up in person

Thanks for all the help guys. I got it fixed. I have to re-adjust a few crews here a few bolts there, but Amazingly enough it works, and I was not bleeding at the end. Matt

Hi, I thought I would ask for help before breaking a finger and losing parts. Here is the problem: Just recently my 650 has started to jam primers in crooked in the new shell. What I notice is that when the shellplate comes around from station 1 to 2 it lines up on the downstroke, on the up stroke 3/4 up the shellplate is lined up, the last 1/4 of the up stroke the shell plate moves just slightly clockwise and the primer catches the edge of the case and rips, or jams in crooked. After the primer is seated good or bad, on the downstroke, it again lines up and looks normal. The problem appears to be the lst 1/4 of the up stroke. Any idea on what is doing this, or how I can fix it. It is happening about every other round. Thanks for any help. Matt

Hi, Here is the situation, I have an STI that with the 1 round left in the magazine the slide locks back. I have read in the FAQ that there are several ways to get the slide to "not lock back at all" however, I want the slide to lock back on an empty magazine. Can anyone help, with a fix, and if possible post or e-mail mail some pics of how the fix works. I have been told modfiy my slide stop, or put a dentent somewhere, but can't quite figure it out. Thanks for any help. Matt

Hi, I have just made the plunge from the SDB to a 650. I am planning on loading .40 for IPSC and .223 for Tactical rifle matches. My questions are these. If I want to switch between these two calibers quickly and easily can you guys tell me if I am missing anything in the list of Components I think I need? Here is the List: -Dies for each caliber -Case Feed Plate for caliber -Shell Plate for each caliber -Quick Change for each caliber (the one with the toolhead, powder measure etc.) What do I need to do to change over the priming system? Is it worth buying the primer quick change? Like I said, I am new to the 650 as the SDB was all set up from dillon. It was just too slow for the amount of shooting I do now. Thanks for any help.