sasquatch981

The first car I ever bought was a 1975 914. I paid $500.00 for it from a guy at work. After several years of paying and playing with it I had to sell it. This is what it looked like when I sold it. The basics are this. 1975 914 911 3.0 litre six cylinder with mods (approx. 200-210 hp) 911 Turbo Brakes Custom Body Paint and Interior 200hp doesn't soud like alot in these days when your dodge neon puts out that much, but when the car only weighs 1900lb with me in it, it scoots right along. I miss that car every day the sun comes out here. I wish I never sold some days.

What grit size is it? I may be interested in some.

Any ideas for recoil spring weights for a .40 M&P shooting minor loads? I seem to remember somewhere in the 25+ pages of the M&P thread that G17 springs could be used?, but could not find it again. Any help would be appreciated.

I know they are out there, but I need to find a 6" recoil spring plug for a gun with a bushing, not a reverse plug. The area of the slide where the plug sits has been milled out like a fat-free, but the reverse plug cuts are gone. Any ideas? Thanks.

I am trying to do some mental calculating, (I know bad idea to begin with ) and I need to find out how much a standard 5" slide with stirrup cut weighs. My, scale either does not go up that high (reloading), or is not accurate enough (beat up postal scale). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. (if it matters, the slide I am trying to figure out has a Bomar cut)

I use 4.6 grains of Competition behind 180 grains MasterBlasters. It gives me a 169pf out of a 5" STI with a Schuemann barrel. I love the stuff. Around here it's $15 cheaper per 4lb than VV N320 if you can find it, and I get the same results with the same load. Great stuff. I also use siloutte for my 9mm load I use in my AR-15.

Hey Ken, That's why I was asking all the questions here rather than calling Benny Hill. I don't want to be the guy that holds up the works for somebody else.

As you can probably tell, all the posts about a 6" fat free and the like has got me pondering a new 6" pistol. I saw on the STI webpage under slides and then the options that they offer on each slide besides the serrations, sight cuts, flat top / tri-top, is Slide lightening for an additional $60. My question is does anyone have a photo of what the lightening cuts look like and where there at? Also on a side note, what do the various slides weigh? Standard 5" Standard 6" 6" with the lightening cuts Thanks for all the help, and putting up with all my mundane questions.

You must have read my mind Merlin. I forgot to add in the fact I was talking about 6" slides. I'm going to post another question about the "lightening" cuts that STI puts on the 6" slides as an option and what they look like. Thanks for the help guys.

Like the title says, what is the difference in weight of a Tri-Topped slide, versus a round top slide. Is there a big difference or is does it not make difference.

Well I have to say that after a trip to the range with some newly load ammo, and a box or so of factory ammo I have some new results. I also did the pencil test, and with a new #2 pencil, it would jump just outside of the barrel, if not just below. Nothing like my Caspian Single Stack, or STI. Factory Winchester Whitebox Ammo: Absolutely no malfunctions Reloads with Winchester Small Rifle Primers: 85-90% fire rate. (1-2 rounds failed per 10-round mag)(100 rounds) All primers showed centered strikes although not deep. Reloads with Federal Small Pistol Primers: 100% fire rate. All primers showed centered and deeper strikes than the WSR primers. I guess my M&P just does not like winchester small rifle primers. A primer change with all other things the same is not that big a deal to load for this pistol. Once I'm done with this case of rifle primers, I guess it's back to the Federals.

So I have my 650 set-up to load both 9mm and .40. I don't seem to have the problem as bad with the .40 set-up, but it happens every9-10 rounds with 9mm. The problem is that it that the shell plate does not seem to index into the proper space all the time. Sometimes it "snaps" into place but when the handle is pulled, but when the platform rises the 9mm shell is just slightly off-center on powder funnel. If I don't catch it when loading, I end up crushing just the edge of the case, and when not noticed the bullet gets seated. Below are photos of the case in this off-center position, and a photo of what the finished bullet looks like when loaded with a crushed corner of the case. Any ideas of what is going on, or should I call dillon to have them perform a refurb?

So I bought a .40 M&P and took it to the range to see how it worked. I fire several magazines loaded to (5) rounds to see where the sights were at, and get an overall feel for the pistol. Once completed, I then went to the plate rack for practice. Load pistol, pull slide to the rear, let go, and holster. Wait for the beep, draw, aim, squeeze trigger and click. Pulled the slide back thinking I did not have the mag inserted when I did it before, and a round dribbled out to the ground. Let the slide go again, and proceeded to fire the rest of the magazine. Second magazine, inserted, slide racked, holstered. Beep, draw, aim, squeeze, bang, bang, bang, bang, click. So disheartened, I continued to practice and every few rounds, it would click. I picked up the rounds that did not fire and found very light primer strikes, and the strikes appeared to be off-center. The rounds that fired seemed to have deep primer strikes that were on-center. I thought that maybe the rounds were not all the way in battery, but the I can't see the first round in the magazine being short stroked. The loads used were light production loads, but still chrono out over 145pf. I used MasterBlasters 180's with 3.6 grains of Ramshot Competition, Winchester small rifle primers loaded to a length of 1.140 in mixed range brass. When I inspected the rounds after loading, there did not appear to be any high primers, or other problems. The pistol is a stock M&P .40 with no internal lock, or magazine disconnect. The springs are stock, and I have not tinkered with anything at this time. I have attached a photo of some of the cases recovered after practice. Any ideas of what is going on, and how to fix it, or is it time to call S&W?

I had a stage with my 9mm AR that would just not quit. Talk about not picking up shots. I had to shoot the same stage (4) times as the timer would no pick up the shots. On the final run, the RO looked at the timer after a 40 round field course and saw that he picked up exactly (6) shots. Luckily it was the the first (4) and we as a group decided the that last (2). The splits between shot four and five was 32 seconds. The RO said after the stage, "If I have to get any closer to you to record your shots, you better bring flowers and buy me dinner next time."

I got a M&P .40 just for production after selling my XD tactical .40, so I don't think your crazy. My M&P has neither the internal lock, or mag-safety, so that is another option to consider. I got mine from budsgunshop.com for $369.00 a few weeks ago, and see that the prices have since gone up. I think the price you stated is great.

I am left handed. You guys are amazing, it's like working with Karnak the Magnificient. I should have mentioned that I shot the pistol from a seated postion off a bag. I was being very cognisant of the trigger control, grip, and sight alignment. After seeing that is shot low and the right, I fired the remaining practice rounds off hand standing at the bowling pin bay. I simply aimed higher than normal and slighty right and the pins fell over. I will have some friends shoot it to see if its me or the pistol. As for the shot analysis targets out there, since I am left handed, do I look at the symptoms for "low and right", or "low and left" since it would be reversed.

Ok so I broke down and got a new M&P. After a short range session today, I noticed that it shot low about 3-4" and to the right about 2" at seven yards. I know that I can drift the rear sight to adjust the side to side but what are my options for the height? I don't think anymore makes new rear sights yet, and all the front sights I have seen are still stock height. Any ideas? Mods: If this is the wrong forum please feel free to move to the proper forum.

Just to put in my .02 If you use a RRA 9mm Upper (like mine) or a Bushmaster, or a colt, or any "colt" pattern 9mm upper, you do not have a "dedicated" lower. All you need to do is swap the hammer to a DPMS hammer. That's all I did, and then I installed a Jard Adjustable trigger. It breaks at 1.5 lbs, and never fails to light off the primers. Too swap lowers pull the pins, and swap out the heavy 9mm buffer for a carbine buffer and your good to go. As for comps, I found that they don't really help. I ran a little experiment and shot the rifle with no comp, A2 Birdcage, and Smith Brake. I fired 5 shots at a target 7 yards away as fast as I could pull the trigger. No comp left a 4" group, A2 Birdcage left a 2.5" group, and the Smith Brake left a 3-3.5" group. Ask N2IPSC what it's like to RO a 9mm on a field course. The timer has a tough time picking up the 9mm sometimes. I ran one stage (4) times, and out of the 36 rounds fired, the timer picked up shots 1-2-3, and 36. My split between shots 3 and 36 was 29 seconds. Maybe I should practice trigger control more.

Thanks for the infor guys. Searching on .356 was really helpfull. Probably should have done that first. Thanks.

Hi, I have a 9mm AR-15 from Rockriver Arms that I shoot in local Pistol caliber carbine matches. I saw some .356 9mm bullets for sale, and was wondering if the extra "thousandth" in diameter would cause problems with the rifle. Years ago I had to use .356's in a Beretta 92 because it was keyholing like crazy. The .356's solved the problem. I have had no problems with the rifle though, and don't want to create any. Would I just need to add a scoche more powder (1/10 of grain if any) to make the same pf, or is it better to just stick with .355's. What about barrel wear with the bigger bullet? The bullets I am looking at are plated, and I have been shooting MG 124's, but these are nearly half the price and local. Any comments?

So does the above item include the sear? I looked at the schematic, but can't seem to determine if the sear can be purchased separately. I was reading the trigger job .pdf from dan burwell, and see that grinding/polishing of the sear is needed to shorten reset. Before I screw up my sear, I want to be able to determine where I can get a replacement.

I am contemplating selling my current Limited Set-up STI 5" with short dustcover, in order to fund the purchase of a new Fat-Free 6". Can the owners of said dream pistol post some opinions on what they like and or dislike about the pistol? How would it compare to a standard 5" with a short dustcover? What is the "perceived" recoil compared to the short dustcover pistol, and compared to a heavy/full dustcover? Does the lightened 6" slide cycle as fast a standard 5". What type of frame is the fat-free built on? Standard Frame, Long/wide 5", or a Long/wide 6"? Thanks for your help. Any additonal photos of a fat-free would be welcomed as well.

What types of power would you reccomend as a faster powder, and a cleaner powder? At first I just tried V320 in my normal 9mm load. When I shot it through the rifle I couldn't keep all the shots on a dinner plate at 25 yards . With the siloutte I could at least get it to group in 1".

I suppose the other issues that you really need to consider with this holseter discusion are these: 1) How much faster is the Ghost, Limcat, Garcia, Res-comp, over the DOH? Maybe .1 to .15 tops. 2) How often in a match is there a shot that is needed directly out of the holster with no movement before the shot? If you shoot a seven stage match, usually there is at least one stage that the guns starts somewhere other the holster. Now were down to (6) stages. Now how many stages start you in a box and then you need to turn, or head out of the box before you engage any targets? Probably 2-3. That leaves 3-4 stages where the difference in time from your draw to first shot is directly related to the speed of your holsters. In the examples give above that would be a total of .4 seconds over the course of a match. In my case I know that I am not anywhere near .4 seconds away from contending for the match win. I have way to many other places that I can make up or lose time besides the draw to worry about it. 3) How many times have you seen a guy get DQ'd wearing a DOH versus a trigger lock model where they forget to lock the trigger bar? Now with all that said I use a DOH for all my matches. During one of the classes I took from a GM he said that there is no need to get a trigger lock holster until you reach at least master class. Once your at that level then the .15 seconds on a draw may help with a stage win. Then again that assumes you do everything right after you draw gun

Ok, so I searched and read several threads about the use of SR primers instead of SP primers. I read about the possible issues of the primer sealing, and causing breachface erosion. I've read about the fact that SR primers should give a longer hotter flash (if you use CCI Primers) and that it should give you a "slight" increase in velocity. So with all that said here is my question. I don't load 9mm for open or production. The only 9mm I have now is a 9mm AR-15. After a rifle match, I notice that the bolt and interior of the receiver is covered in what appears to unburnt powder. It looks likes sand on the bolt, charging handle, trigger components, etc. I realize that the 9mm rifle is a straight blowback so it will be dirtier than a normal AR. However, will a SR primer burn the powder more completely? Componets used: Mixed once fire nickle brass Montanna Gold 124 FMJ Ramshot Silouette (Have been using Federal Small pistol primers) Thanks