sasquatch981

Thanks guys, while in the garage today, I got to looking at it, and pulled out the "O" ring and snugged it down. It seems to be holding up, so I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the help.

So to help with the "glock" bulge I have seem to be having problems with, I purchased an EGW "U" die in .40sw. Reading the instructions I see that it says install the die and turn it down until it just "touches" the shell plate, and then lock down. Seems pretty straight forward. Only problem is when I screw it down that far, the locking nut is no longer on the threads of the die. Therefore it just sort of "flops" around in place and does not sit in a consistent location from round to round. If I back it off far enough to engage the threads I can see a large gap between the shell plate and the die. My Dillon sizing die touches the shell plate. It kind of defeats the purpose if the Dillon sizing die touches the shell plate and sizes the shell farhter than the "U" die. Any ideas?

So here is what I was thinking. Rather than dropping $500+ on a casepro, I thought I might blow $60 instead and see if it works. Here's my idea. Loading a Dillon 650 Station 1: Factory Dillon Sizer and decapper Station 2: EGW sizing die, with no primer punch pin Station 3: Powder Measure Station 4: Redding Competition Seating Die set to 1.200" Station 5: Lee Factory Crimp die. I realize that I have (3) dies that size the case, but since I shoot "glocked" range brass, and don't have 5 bills to spare on a casepro, any reason this would not work? Or am I just going at this with way too much gusto?

Thanks Thomas, When I got home from work, I wandered out to the garage and took a look at the 650. I figured if I "turned" the powder measure, the rod should fit and work everything. Then I sat at teh computer and whammo, there's your photo exactly as I was thinking. Now I just have to wait for my little EGW box to arrive. I ordered it on Tuesday, should be here tomorrow. Yippeee. Thanks again.

Small thread drift here, but how do you move the powder measure to station 3? How does the powder bar arm activate the powder measure? I am at work now, so I can't go out and look at the 650, but it seems to me that if moved to station 3 you would not be able to get any powder in the case. Do you have any photos?

So Mitch, are you going to shoot the new open gun at Area 1, or one of the other (4) divisions? I am still keeping my fingers crossed that we can get you, cel, and albert on our squad together. I saw the squad model and you guys shot the same days, and times as we do. I'm hoping we can make a trad of a few shooters and make everyone happy. See ya at Area 1

Yes it is the "Patriot Safe Company" that I was interested in hearing opinions about, not the "patriot" safe series by canon. Rob do you have any experience with the Patriot Safe Company or products?

I am thinking of getting my first big boy safe. I have read several of the threads and have not heard anyone mention Patriotsafe. I know to figure out how big a safe you need, and then double or triple it. I also know to look for the "specs" of the side plates etc. Has anyone heard of them, or have any experience with them. The webpage looks good, but am I just falling for the hype? Patriot Safe

Like the title says I am looking for a minor .40 load with the following components. Berry's 155's or 165's Ramshot Competition, or Vit N320 Federal Small pistol primers. Right now I have the factory recoil spring in the M&P. With the lighter bullet I was wondering if I need to go to a lighter spring as well. If so what weight. Thanks.

Thanks for the help guys. No worries about the mag-button issue. I am old school and don't use an "extended" or "large" mag-button. And to add to that I am a lefty and leave the mag-release on the left side of the pistol, and use my index finger. I have only dropped a mag by accident when I grabbed the pistol awkward out of the holster, and then gripped too hard with my suport hand, and actually pressed the mag-button with pressure of my grip, and the inside portion of the my middle finger. The mag dropped and I just looked at it for a second as I did not know what happened. Luckily it as ajungle run stage so I had some time to make up with fast feet.

So I have an old limited gun, and a newly built limited gun. The mag release in the old gun is much softer easy to use. I pulled both springs to look and see if they were the same length and they were. Is the older one just "broken-in" or is there a softer spring that can be purchased. Furhtermore, are the STI mag release springs the same length as the 1911 springs, or are they different sizes. I see that brownells sells reduced power mag-relase springs, but they are for a 1911 not a 2011.

So I am in the process of putting together my first STI pistol. I had a local smith do all the "hard" machine work for me so I did not screw up the expensive parts. That being said, the slide is fit to the frame, and the barrel has been fit. I am now working on the ejector, extractor combo and taking my time. I am looking over my other STI to make sure I understand how the "proper" way things should look and came across this conundrum with the ejector. I ordered a .40 extended ejector from Brownells that is made by Ed-brown. When I compare it to the ejector in the other STI, (Custom built, bought second hand, so I don't know who made the ejector) they look different. The current STI ejector is much longer. Maybe I am dolt, but it never hurts to ask. So the old STI ejector is .277 inches long where the little "arm" extends past the base. The Ed-Brown ejector .170 inches (or the same as my .45 ejector) I noted the width of the arm if the old STI is .090 inches same as the Ed-Brown, where as the .45 ejector is .062 inches wide. So my questions are these: Did I get the wrong ejector in the package? Is the "extended" portion the referring to the width, and not length? Do I need to have the length match the long ejector, or will the shorter (.45) length work? Am I a dolt? Thanks for the help.

So I am trying to get the STI grip off the actuall frame, becuase I want to change the SV Flat Trigger. But the little allen head screw/bushing that sits just above the trigger guard is stripped. Or shall I rather say "rounded" Instead of fitting a nice square edged allen head in it, the wrench just spins, and I can't get enough grab to unlock the bushing from the screw. It is soaking in WD-40 right now in hopes it will loosen the hold of the bushing, but are there any other suggestions other than drilling it out?

Since it's waterproof, you might as well dunk it in a bowl of water for a awhile to loosen up the crud, and then use mild glass cleaner.

I just ordered some ramline .22 loaders from them. Loader weighs all of 1.5 lbs. Cost to ship a single loader $11.50. Now on an item that only costs $35 to begin with its kinda hard to swallow. What is the shipping cost if you add more items to the same box you might ask? Well that's what I looked into and decided order a total of (4) loaders and it cost the same $11.50 to ship all (4). Makes you wonder about the "handling" aspect of S&H.

partial thread drift....what brand trigger do you have. I like the flat solid look.

So with that said, can a stainless steel .45 slide have the breach face welded and then milled to a .40 breech face. The reason I ask is I have a nice .45 slide with all the options I want, but it is a .45 and I want a .40. So can this be done, or is it just not worth the hassle. Secondly is the .45 firing pin hole to big to use with a 9mm/38sup firing pin like all the other .40's use. Thanks. Matt

I have consulted an excel spread sheet that I downloaded from here sometime ago with all the Dillon part numbers for the caliber conversions. I noted in this spread sheet that it said that 40SW and 10mm used all the same parts EXCEPT the 40SW uses a small primer system, and the 10mm uses a large? Is this right? I thought 10mm was just a "taller" cased 40sw (simplifcation I know). So if I order a Dillon 650 set up in 10mm with I need to change the primer system to small for 40SW. And will it come with the Large system installed already, or am I crazy. Matt

Call or E-mail EGW. They have them, or at least make them. Tell them what you want, and they'll get you taken care of.

Unfortunately that happened at a local indoor range in WA a few years ago. A lady was shooting a .44 desert eagle if I recall correctly, she shot once and the gun recoiled just like the video except it went past her head and did not hit her. However it frightened her, and in her surprise she pulled the trigger while the gun was facing behind her and killed her companion that was standing behind her. Range is still open, even though they have had at least (3) shootings/accidents that I am aware of. Needless to say I don't shoot at that range. Obviously I feel comfortable with my gun handling skills and the people I shoot with, but you never know who is going to be in the lane next to you.

So I purchased a Kimber .22 conversion for practice and I love it. However, I would say 1 out of every 10 rounds will misfire. I manually cock the hamer back and pull the trigger again and bang. So my question is: if I put in a heavier mainspring, will that allow the hammer to fall with more force? Are there any other ideas I can try. I have tried the following ammo with the same results. American Eagle Copper Plated American Eagle Lead Federal Lead Eley Sport Lead Winchester Wildcat Lead Fiochii (sp) Copper Plated CCI Mini Mags Copper Plated Thanks

I read in the MidwayUSA catalog that the Kimber .22 Conversions are "Not Compatible with ramped barrel", however there is no mention of this fact for the Marvel Conversion, and I have no information on the Tactical Solutions kit. My Question is: Does anyone know if the Marvels or the Tactical Solutions kits allow the use of a ramped barrel frame, or must I make a dedicated lower? I assume that you guys that run Marvels on S_I's must have ramped barrels, as I have never seen a non-ramped limited pistol. I have a 1911 SingleStack with a ramped barrel, and don't want to spend money on something that won't work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also any additional information on the Tactical Soultions kit would be great. Thanks.

I only have a 650, that's why I was curious and asked the question. I like the idea of a 1050, but finances dictate a 650. Besides I manage mess up my 650 enough that I need the "No BS" warranty, and with a 1050 it's a "commercial" machine with no warranty.

Like the title says, can a stainless gun be coated, whether that be IONBond, DuraCoat, Baer Coat, Black T, or even Hardchrome?

I know that military .223 is crimped, but what about 9mm. I have an opportunity to buy a 55-gallon drum of 9mm once fired military brass. But if it is all crimped, it may be more trouble than its worth. Any info will help to make my decision easier. Thanks.