sasquatch981

I think I have narrowed down my scope choices down to these (2) while I wait for the Razor 1-6 to come out with a different reticule. In regards to the VIPER PST, and MTAC. How do they compare to illumination, and eye-relief? I was thinking of the Bushnell 1-6, but saw several people comment on the eyebox being "really tight". That is soemthing that I am horrible at with tube scopes, is getting my head in the "exact" same spot each time. So with that said, how do these compare. Is the Vortex worth the extra $50-75 over the MTAC, is one more forgiving to head/eye placement, and how does the illumination fair in the sunlight? Also what is the different between the Viper and the Razor 1-4's besides $700? Thanks

I have a JP trigger in my 9mm, and have had no issues. You should be fine there. I tried a smith brake at one point on the rifle, and saw no difference with or without it. When I shoot the rifle in local matches, I often have several targets with 1 ragged hole instead of 2 or the 2 shots form a figure 8. I don't think there is a need for comp on a 9mm.

Can Somebody post some pictures with the reticule lit? From the photos I have seen the dot appears to be so small as to be pointless. I realize you don't want to have a 4MOA dot, but it would be nice to have one big enough to see. Maybe I have been spoiled with the Trijicon Accupoint Triangle

They were all gone when I called And I'm on the list e-mail list too!!!!

I know I am a little lazy right now, but for those of you with a CZ 712 utility, what size Nordic Extension tube do you use, and how many rounds does it hold in the magazine? I saw the info in the 712 thread, but with 14+ pages to sift through thought it would be fast to ask. Thanks guys.

I am in a cunundrum. I need a new optic, and I want something in the 1x6 range. I am poor family man so the swaro is out. What can you tell me about the Bushnell, and the yet to be release SWFA? The SWFA is cheaper by about $300+, andif ordered from the factory, they will let me trade in some unused stuff bringing the total down even furhter to the $700-ish range. I might be able to exchange a NIB bushy scope I have in the safe back to Bushnell for a discount, but that would bring the cost down to about $1,000-1,100. I am basing my opinion on the SWFA 1x4's that people seem to like. What say the inter-webs?

Just like the title says does anyone know if there are any in stock anywhere,or when grabagun.com might get more in stock?

So I got the 1050 (used for $800 , keep hopes high guys they are out there!!!) I then bought the 1200B from a forum member and set about getting it set up. I first had problems with the universal decapper, got that fixed, then fixed my swage issue. Thought I had the trimmer figured out, but apparently not. I adjusted per the manual. Screw the die all the way down the shell plate, and then back off 1/2 turn. Adjust the trimmer to desired case length, etc. Now I prepped a bunch of brass and then loaded it on the 650, like I have in the past. The ammo seems to work fine in my MSAR, but not in the AR. Most will shoot, but when I need to eject the live round, by pulling the charging handle it is really difficult, and I need to "mortar" the stock against my knee. This happened in a match as well, where it ran fine for (1) stage, and then 10-rounds into the next stage, it jammed. I beat on it, yanked it, mortared, pried, and used magazines as helping fingers. Eventually I got the round out, after the clock stopped, and the round did not look deformed, dinged, gouged, or anything other than normal. When speaking to a another buddy that has a 1050 he said that when he preps brass, when he "sizes" he hears/feels a click when the round is all the way in the "up" position. Should I try screwing down the sizer a little more, a little less, what should I do. The OAL is on the shorter side of normal, and it all fits in the Wilson Case Guage with the neck just slighlty below the edge. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Point was, with mags that fit 10 and are semi-flush fitting (or I should have said fit the box), would allow me to shot either .40 major (8-rounds) or try .40 minor (10-rounds) without the need to buy a new gun and mags. I know Sacrilege why not just buy a new gun, you hav a reason!!!!!

Maybe this has been asked before, but my google-fu is as good as kung-fu. Does anyone make a 10-round flush fit (or with basepad that would be SS legal) .40 single stack mag? Currently I shoot SS in .40 major, with CMC Power Mags with no Problems. I was curoius about loading the .40 to minor, and trying SS minor, but I can only cram 9-rounds into the CMS. I figured it would be cheaper to buy new mags, than a new 9mm gun.

So I have just perused the 10-pages and am thinking this may be the way to go. If I understand what I read, with the "spring-kit" that was mentioned above, and maybe some gas port opening, this will run everything from super powder puffs to 3" slugs? Also can this be ghost loaded? Who makes a magazine extension for this? I think I read that Nordic Components Remington extensions work, is this correct? Does anyone have any more info or pictures of this. What about an extended/enlarged bolt handle, and bolt release? Thanks guys. Have only shot a single 3-gun event (charity match at the club) with borrowed a borrowed shotgun, but I am hooked

Got it figured out. It was just like NWSnowBum said, The backup swage rod, was belling the case web down. I am not sure how it got so out of wack, but it solved the problem. Thanks Guys.

Snowbum, that is what I was woindering, I am going to check that when I get home from work, and prep 10-12 cases after adjusting the swage rod again.

All the priming was done on the 650. The funny thing is that I just loaded the last 150 rounds of the processed brass that I bought. No high primers. All the high primers cames from the processed stuff I did on the 1050.

Hi Guys, I am still seeming to have some issues with the brass prep of the 1050. I am not sure but I think it is still related to the swage process. When I load the “prepped” brass from the 1050, I am getting high primers. Please note that the prep is done on the 1050, and the loading is done on the 650. Brass is mixed headstamp once fired. Here are some photos of the high primers. Could this be an issue with the swage not being “enough”. In the last post I made needing help I took all the advice, and adjusted the swage rod so there is pressure on the “over-cam” on the last 1-inch or so on the down-stroke actually maybe a little more since I have the handle adjusted to the shortest position. It makes me nervous on the down-stroke, because it seems like there is a lot of force being put into the overcam action, and I feel like I am going to break something (like the shell plate). I realize the 1050 is much more stout than a 650, am I just being nervous because when you prime on the 650 it’s a “feel” thing (same type of action with the rod raising the primer) and the swage process of the 1050 is not? All advice is appreciated.

Tinkering a little bit more today, I have been able to get more consistent results. However I am noticing on some cases the "over-camming" effect seems to be more than others. Is there "too" much over-cam that can happen?

I purchased a used 1050, and I now have all the pieces to finish the set up. However, I am having difficulty with the swage process. I have followed the process in the Dillon manual, and the suggestions posted on this board by Dillion. I still have issues. I even took to a .223 case (Commerical non-crimped) with the dremel to give me a “window” to watch was going on. Please see the photos below. My question is, can the swage rod get “rounded” to a point where it won’t swage the brass any more? In the photos below, there is a case that seems to have been swaged correctly, and then a case that is typical of what I am getting which appears to have a “ring” around the primer pocket that has not been swaged. The photos show how the swage rod support touches the bottom of the case to hold it in place, while the swage rod comes up just below the bottom of the primer pocket roof. When the handle is pulled down the shell plate seems to rise just perceptibly when the swage rod comes up from the bottom, so I don’t want to raise the rod anymore for fear of creating too much tension plate or breaking the rim off the .223 case.

I bought a used Super 1050 from a forum member and have it mostly set up. However I am having issues with the swager, and I can't seem to understand the dillon directions. I think I am overthinking something. So if I understand the directions, I loosen up both the swage rod (lower), and the support rod (upper in the die). I place a piece of unswaged brass in the press, and get it to the right station. Then with the brass in place, I screw the upper rod down until it bottoms out on the brass case. Then tighten the jam nut. Next I pull the handle again and make sure the swage rod does not interfere with the shell plate (it should rest just below the shell plate and not contact it when it spins). I then adjust the swage rod up until it swages the brass, and then lock the second jam nut in place. What should the measurement between the support rod, and the swage rod be when there is no case in the station? I seem to either have it set too tight, or not tight enough, and I can't seem to properly swage the brass. Thanks for the help.

MidwayUSA small order fees. They don't count sale items as part of the total. If I have a $700 scope that is on "SALE" and a pair of butler creek caps $20 it still counts as a small order Pretty Chincy!!!!

Shame, shame, shame on you. I told yo months ago to send it in to Ratworx for the upgrade. Actually if you call them I believe they will still do the recall/upgrade for free (don't quote me on that one.)you just ship the stock to them. Your google-fu is better than mine, I at one point saw a video on how to remove a stuck magainze before sending it in. If I recall it had something to do with a paperclip being inserted at the base of the mag release lever. But call Ratworx and ask them first.

I was just told today, that if I just wanted to "Process" .223 brass on a 1050 All I need is a Decapper, Trim/size die (that goes with the dillon trimmer), and neck sizer to re-size the neck and correct any burrs on the neck. Is this correct? I thought the trim/size die was just for trimming, and not sizing. My plan was to get the universal decapper, small base body die, trimmer and trim die, and then the neck sizer. If I did it this way, per the other gentlemen I spoke with, that would mean I am sizing the body twice Whats the skinny? This is the die trim die I was thinking of, is there something different that I am missing? Or do I not need the extra sizing die? Trim Die

Had the same thing happen to me, bought the new motor and away I went. I was told that the motor is not a "Dillon" part like the rest of the press, and therefore they can't offer the warranty on it.

I have e-mailed this guy, and he made this for a buddy that was disabled if I recall correctly. He said the original was a one-off, but he has thought about making more. He uses some PW parts to make the conversion, so you would need the PW, and then some extra cash on the side to possibily have him make you one. He also told me it was for the RL, and not the SUPER 1050. If I recall it has something to do with how it mounts. The press is also slightly modified to allow it to work.

I have a 650, and was told that the plates were the same. I used the 40-plate for 9mm and it did work. However I would get crushed cases, and about 8-10% crushed primers as the 9mm would not line up with the primer ram each time. I bought a 9mm conversion, with new plate (different numbers on the bottom), and I have not had a problem with crushed primers ever again.

I have a chance to get a used Super 1050 for $800 shipped. Is this a good price since it does not have a powder measure, caliber conversion, or powder measure?