himurax13

It is possible, but you have to literally, sand the right hand side safety lever down. If I'm not mistaken, CGW has done this modification to a customer's gun before. I'm almost positive it was CGW, but might have been another CZ builder. A guy posted pics of it on the CZ forums a few weeks ago. EDIT: Might have been Thompson Custom. If I do find the thread, I'll edit this post again. A minute on a beltsander would take care of that safety.

It's not. OP, if you plan on playing production or SSP, 9mm is the better way to go. Switching from .40 to 9mm is much cheaper than going from small pistol primer to large pistol primer.

Odd question since Shadow slides have different dovetail than all of the 75B models do.

I have noticed this as well. I think most people to prefer to play in SSP so they don't have to fiddle with their equipment as much. It is also easier to transition your equipment to play in the Production Division for those who play both sports.

I agree. I prefer using the biggest, and sometimes the heaviest thing, that will fit in the box.

The max width is annoying. Pistols with Ambi Safeties will probably need trimming to fit. The max width on my Kimber was actually not at the right safety lever. The right lever (the one a lefty would use) is closer to the frame because it doesn't have to clear the safety plunger tube. I would have had to make even a non-ambi safety of the same profile thinner to comply to the max width. That is fine and dandy for a Single stack, but I am referring to double stacked 9mm pistols with ambi safeties. The factory rubber grips is almost at the max width already.

As far as comparing a fully customized Shadow to a fully customized SP01 (assuming both have some sort of Short Reset System installed) the difference where the actual reset point is fairly small. The thing I notice most is that the Shadow will break the trigger close to the reset point where the SP01 is near the end of the pull.

That is quite the helpful picture. I know this sounds backwards but I remove material off the trigger bar (the area where the disconnector rides in) instead of the disconnector itself on the CZ75. I have found it was easier to remove metal and polish afterwards. Plus the CZ75 trigger bar is cheaper than the disco.

You must be really busy, hopefully not watching tv news or anything. I typically spend 10-20 mins a day reloading, either with my morning coffee or with my evening beer. That doesn't seem like too much time to me, and it's relaxing to kill a few mins after my dryfire practice. It's *really* relaxing only paying .10/round for 9mm Not everyone has the room or the money for initial purchase of the equipment. I spend a ton of money because I buy in bulk to get a discount.

I have had to lightly file the basepads in the past to get them to fit smoothly.

Hmm, I wonder if I have donated anything to that project

If you are lucky enough to find a Rami Safety, you could swap that in.

The max width is annoying. Pistols with Ambi Safeties will probably need trimming to fit.

I was wondering why your SA pull isn't lighter.

Feedlips bending was an issue I had with the .45 ACP version of the Tripps. This is why I have been hesitant to buy the 9 mm versions. It annoys me how many issues I have with 1911 magazines. My Glock and CZ mags just need a new spring once in a blue moon. I guess my definition of 'work fine' includes being able to speed reload. If they can't be inserted on a closed slide when full, they would be completely unacceptable to me. Exactly. I have broken many, many 1911 mags in .45ACP and 9mm from doing this. I believe this also causes nosediving of the first few rounds. This is why I started buying $19 Mecgar 1911 magazines in .45. Once the mags are done, I just throw them away. It is difficult to find 10 round 9mm Magazines for less than $30 + shipping. I would like at least 12 so I can rotate them throughout the match. This way, I won't have to drop a mag in the dirt more than twice before putting it away.

For a flat point, you want the ogive of the bullet (curved part) to be in relatively the same position as a round nose bullet, so that will give you a much shorter OAL. My 100gr FP's are 1.035, my 124 RN and 147 RN are at 1.135. I don't adjust my die between different bullets. That is interesting. I have not heard of anyone keeping the seating die the same for different bullet profiles before. Are you using the flat or round side on the seating die? I have noticed that using the round side on the 147 keeps the little circle mark on the tip from occuring.

As do I. They feel more comfortable and natural.

I thought fitting the sear to the safety was only needed if the Sear and or hammer was replaced?

I don't see why not. You can use the factory safeties from another pistol of the same brand that qualifies in that division.

It is simple. You take a #1 or #2 wooden pencil and drop the eraser end into the barrel. You then cock the hammer, press the trgiger, and see how far it goes. If it doesn't leave the barrel, you may have a problem. You can also use it to compare against another similarly equipped pistols.

Well I would like to see how close the break is a few times just so I can get an idea of how it is in single action.

Another option is to run the tumbler safeties and tumbler sear cage from an SA model. You will also need a right side detent and spring. It is a bit harder to engage.

Is there a version that shows how short the reset is after racking the slide?

I agree. If the Wilsons or the Dawsons got any dirt on them, they were done. This is why I was surprised that they came out with 9mm mags.

I got a set for free and one side cracked. I was dissapointed.