bountyhunter

I laughed at a post from a cop who had the same problem. people would walk up to him at parties and say: "Hey! You gave me a ticket!" And his answer: "Then you must have deserved it!"

The problem the OP referred to was not that simple: This is a common problem I have seen, I also see barrel ends that are crowned with say .008 center and .012 on each side. It's because their monkeys use a mill file to "adjust" the barrel cylinder gap by hand and that gives an uneven end. Here's an example of my PC 627 brand new as I got it (nice of them to not bother to tape off the top strap so the file tore it up as well):

I think in most cases it is for one of two reasons: 1) They are forcing POI down because it is shooting too high for the sights. 2) They have to get the rear of the barrel up because the lugs don't have enough insertion depth into the slide cuts.

From my experience, I would wager most mass made 1911's "stand on the link" in lockup simply because the manufacturing process does not have the fitting it takes to make the gun fit as originally designed. My Para 1640 is on the link and the accuracy is actually pretty good (sub 3" groups at 25 yards). Obviously, it's not preferable and it's why I recommend people buy STI and pay the extra money. A 1911 is either fitted or a it's a bunch of parts thrown together. But it doesn't necessarily mean the gun won't be accurate.

My recent experiences are that SW no longer has any quality control. They "lifetime warranty" their products and let their customers serve as their QA. The PC 627 I bought a few years back was so bad that I will never buy another new SW gun.

I love the smell of Hoppes. The old stuff I have doesn't have ammonia in it. One of the things they took out of gun cleaner was benzene. I have some old MIL spec bore cleaner that works fantastic and is probably cancer in a can......

I highly recommend the Kuhnhausen shop manual for SW revolvers if you are going to work on them. It is a wealth of information. can't tell you how much I learned from it. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/314178/the-s-and-w-revolver-a-shop-manual-book-by-jerry-kuhnhausen

Trojan either new or used.

Nope. same as always: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/219641-use-mim-parts-s-ws-explanation.html

Trigger yank or grip clench will do it but also remember: a single stack 1911 grip is a lot narrower than a typical grip so it forces a grip change.

There is a product called kasenit that will re harden the surface of steel but I am not sure if it works on stainless. I recall the surface hardening on SW parts is about .006" so it's easy to stone through. I have not seen the Mikulek video but telling amatuers to take stones to the triggers and hammers is a very bad idea in general. SW may be able to re harden the parts (?)

Buy mine at Home Depot. Just get a wooden dowel of the appropriate diameter and cut to length. Been using the same one for about 20 years. Costs a couple of bucks.

If you have the correct tension with a round inserted that means that it's adjusted right. The only possible concern with one that is loose no load is that it might clock (rotate) slightly as the round tries to feed up and in but if it is working 100%, that doesn't seem to be happening. Until there is a problem, I would leave it alone. That said, 1911 extractors do require periodic monitoring and adjusting like every few thousand rounds.

Yes, I have seen it before. I am kind of obsessive so it would bug me. I have fixed it before by cutting the extractor groove a bit deeper which means it needed to be bent a bit more which gave it resting tension in the extractor channel but still the correct tension with a round under the rim. Ones which rattle "no load" have no tension in the extractor tunnel but have enough when the round is inserted. IMHO, one of the reasons may be that extractors are too stiff and don't deflect as much. They are supposed to be made of spring steel but most now are not. This can be fixed, but I am not 100% sure it is a reliability problem. Based on yours, I would say probably not.

9mm ammo is pretty ridiculous as well, at least around here.

As ridiculous as it sounds: Wear internal ear plugs (30 dB or as much as you can get) and put electronic muffs over them. You can still get the volume up enough to hear range conversation but the double layer protection works the best for the very loud sounds. Wearing good muffs over internal plugs raises the protection ballpark 15 dB better than using very good plugs or muffs alone. That difference is actually huge for ear protection.

Those are just ridiculous. They don't have enough ventilation..... better use a beekeeper's suit like I wear. If it can stop a bee it can stop a brass.

I had a .40 top end built for my 9mm STI but only because I live in a state where buying a new one in .40 is not legal so I had no choice. FYI, the 9mm ejector works fine with .40 on mine. No changes at all on the frame between calibers.

Brazos will ship non-list guns to California? Wouldn't post that publicly. Cali DOJ has busted people on Calguns.

Slick invention. When I saw it I said that is a great idea.

There is a site called Calguns with a large handguns for sale section but you have to hover constantly to catch the jewels among the toads. Also take your blood pressure meds before reading the prices in case you run across one of their usual $6000 Colt Python ads...... Be advised that if the gun's exact model number is not currently on the Cal approved roster, you must do a face-to-face PPT sale at a gun store. The gun can not be shipped so bear that in mind.

OK, I have an XD Tactical 5" .40SW which I also shoot with a 9mm conversion barrel. Facts: 1) Yes, 9mm mags hold more rounds especially if you are forced to buy only ten round magazines. The ten round .40 mag holds 14 rounds of 9mm if the feed lips are properly spaced. The mags will work fine when tuned up. 2) The XD basically has a "fixed" position extractor that does not move very far and that is a problem for dual calibers. The .40 extractor will not hold tension very well on the 9mm rim as it pulls out of battery. Had a lot of FTE's in 9mm. I had to buy a second extractor and modify it to get maximum "turn" to get reasonably reliable extraction on 9mm. But, with the extractor moved enough to pull 9mm, the .40 rounds don't feed correctly. So, you need a caliber specific extractor and changing the extractor is annoyingly difficult (IMHO)

Sorry you got a doggie. I bought a 1986 Charger brand new in 1987 and bought the "extra warranty" to extend the 5/50000 power train warranty to 7/70,000. Blew the head gasket at about 40,000 miles but at six years age. Lucky I got the warranty! Except Chrysler would not honor it because the extended warranty is with the dealership which "went out of business".... not really, just reopened under a different name at the same spot. So I was out about $1000 which was a bunch of money back in 1992....... Maybe but dealership rates are typically about 50% above reasonable. Find a good mechanic you can trust.

All of my problems stem from the negative thoughts that we have stored in our reactive mind bubbling up to the surface...... oh no...... my scientology programming is coming out again! Quick.... somebody shoot me.......

First thing is to check tension on the extractor. Check the extractor tip to make sure its square and sharp.