bountyhunter

Slide Glide blended with FP-10 is excellent and you can adjust the viscosity by adding more or less FP-10. The grease holds the lube in place.

That's why I was asking. If removing the DA sear is all you have to do, the new SW (MIM) revolvers are the choice because the DA sear just pops out of the hammer.

Maybe it doesn't apply to revolvers. Just for information: what constitutes a SA conversion for a revolver? Can you just take the DA sear off the hammer so the DA trigger pull won't lift the hammer? I never understood how it could be legal for a person who modifies the gun to SA then convert it back to DA/SA and sell to the end user. That sounds to me like manufacturing a firearm which is not on the approved list?

Take the slide off. Look for the amount of battering wear were the slide and frame come together. Also look at the barrel lugs and slide cuts for wear or anything abnormal.

That's the way that has been easier for me to work with. NOTE: I take it down by sliding the slide all the way back and inserting the clip tool in from the muzzle end and letting the slide come forward and capture it. Make the clip tool with a right angle bend and a longer side that allows you enough handle to put it in from the muzzle end with the slide held back. It was always easier for me to have the hole vertical so I could feed the short bent end of the clip tool in from under the rod. I make the clips by bending them out of paper clips so mic the thickness of that wire and make sure the hole is a little bigger than that. good idea. Mine looks like maybe the hole diameter is .050" - .060 ballpark? I don't think so because many guns (like STI) come with drilled rods. Check with the department armorer if you're concerned. The amount of material removed from the rod is pretty small and the rod actually has no shear force on it in operation so it's chances of breaking are microscopic IMHO.

Governor Moonbeam just signed the new law that slams that single shot exemption loophole shut. http://www.calffl.org/2014/07/gov-jerry-brown-signs-new-handgun-ban-ab-1964/ FYI: there were FFl's in Kali who would modify a gun to "comply" with the SSE and then change it back and deliver it to the end customer. That was the #1 loophole followed closely by the knots at Calguns who were selling HICAP magazine "rebuild kits" by taking the follower out of the hicap magazine and laying it next to the mag tube and selling it as a "kit". It still amazes me there aren't more of the people here in Kali doing time in prison.

Hammer follow on a 1911 that used to work well then comes on gradually may mean wear on the sear face which needs to be "squared up" again. Any gunsmith can fix this easily.

I'd check extractor tension first. It's also possible it doesn't cycle and feed as smoothly (round sliding under extractor and sliding up the feed ramp). I check for "snags" by slow cycling ammo up by hand and see if there are rough spots and address those.

Yep, I drilled my Para guide rod and another one some years back. I hate fighting the recoil spring and taking it off as a captive assembly just makes life so much easier. I also put up several posts in a few forums showing how to do it (drill the rod) and was greeted by replies from various people who said JMB never intended for the 1911 to have an FLGR and a real man enjoys fighting with a recoil spring etc.... The trick is to pull the slide all the way back until it contacts the frame and mark the longitudinal axis of the hole with a sharpie just ahead of the edge of the bushing. I drilled a hole using a drill press. I taped the rod to piece of wood so it couldn't rock. Drill along the vertical direction when installed, makes it easier to install the clip wire.

Most of the references I have seen indicate a negligible difference in wear because the barrel steel is so much harder than the jacket steel. "Frankford Arsenal conducted a test with steel jacketed 30-06 rounds around 1946 to determine if the rumors that steel jacketed bullets damaged the barrels more than copper jacketed bullets were true. In their testing they found that steel jacketed bullets not only didn't accelerate wear but they also discovered for the first 1000 rounds steel jacketed rounds were actually more accurate! After 1000 rounds the accuracy leveled off to be comparable to the copper jacketed bullets but no evidence of accelerated wear was discovered through 8,000 rounds of testing on their samples." https://www.facebook.com/militaryarms/posts/516101628401641 The military allegedly has been using steel jacket ammo for decades and ran extensive tests to see if the barrels would wear more and found they did not. The worst numbers I saw were people claiming steel jacket ammo increased wear by maybe 10% over copper. YMMV

I have read the FBI analysis. It has a decidedly political tone (coming a couple of years after the infamous Miami shootout) where the "weak" 9mm cartridge was indicted as a major problem and the "need" for the 10mm service cartridge came about. Ironically, I recall only two agents in that shootout had a 9mm, most had .357 revolvers. The FBI study: "The tissue disruption caused by a handgun bullet is limited to two mechanisms. The first, or crush mechanism is the hole the bullet makes passing through the tissue. The second, or stretch mechanism is the temporary cavity formed by the tissues being driven outward in a radial direction away from the path of the bullet. Of the two, the crush mechanism, the result of penetration and permanent cavity, is the only handgun wounding mechanism which damages tissue. To cause significant injuries to a structure within the body using a handgun, the bullet must penetrate the structure." So penetration is paramount (I agree) and penetration is basically inversely proportional to bullet diameter, since the wider bullet encounters more resistance passing in and slows down more rapidly. So it would seem a well propelled small diameter bullet (like a .357 magnum hollow point) would be preferred, not the flying ashtray. As for bullet mass: "Goddard amply proves the fallacy of "knock-down power" by calculating the heights (and resultant velocities) from which a one pound weight and a ten pound weight must be dropped to equal the momentum of 9mm and .45ACP projectiles at muzzle velocities, respectively. ////// A bullet simply cannot knock a man down. If it had the energy to do so, then equal energy would be applied against the shooter and he too would be knocked down. This is simple physics" And ammo makers agree. Notice that EVERY (not most, every one) makes the more lethal "defense rounds" of all popular cartridges (.38, .380, 45, 9mm, etc) by reducing the bullet grain weight and upping powder load for more velocity. If more mass meant better lethality, the opposite would be true. The FBI report is wrong here, or at least incomplete: "Increased bullet mass will increase penetration." Only if that increased mass is driven by more powder so it's velocity and linear momentum increases. If you just make the bullet more massive, it won't make it more lethal unless you crank up velocity with it. This one goes in the DUH file: "Given adequate penetration, a larger diameter bullet will have an edge in wounding effectiveness." But you have to drive the larger diameter bullet harder (more powder and recoil) to get the same penetration a smaller bullet would have for given powder drive. One of the main reasons the 10mm was dumped was because female agents could not control the recoil of the weapon. The "theme" that the report seems to be going for is the one they were pushing at the time: larger caliber is better. They were trying to justify Cooper's 10mm round which was eventually dumped. I am not a subscriber to the myth that the .40SW is significantly less lethal than .45 and that the 9mm is "underpowered". Shot placement is paramount, and somebody who has a 9mm gun they shoot well should not feel it is "inadequate" IMO.

Not sure how loose Glock specs their barrels? Since it's a service weapon, I doubt that it would be on the tight side.

Accuracy of ammo is so unpredictable it has long puzzled me. I've seen bench tests where four different brands of ammo scatter differently in three different guns. Sometimes the same ammo will vary in two different (same model) guns, it is kind of unpredictable. That said, the most accurate .38 ammo I ever saw was what my buddy made out of melted down wheel weights and hand loaded. My 25 yard groups went from about 3" to 1" with that stuff (revo with 6" barrel and red dot). I guess the old saying is true: buy whatever your gun likes.

+1 There's a saying: commie ammo goes in commie guns. The guns made to cycle steel case ammo have looser throats to accomodate the fact that the steel case does not "shrink back" as far as brass. It's harder to extract and can cause cycling problems and broken extractors. You can get a cheapo barrel and ream the throat to cycle it, I would not use it in a good gun or any gun with a match grade barrel.

Problem is, all guns do require critical fitting and even the miracle MIM magic can't eliminate it all. The barrels have to be set on correctly, cylinders and hands have to be fitted and (my pet peeve) side plates have to be fitted. I can't count how many new SW's I have seen with the barrels "off" so you have to crank the rear sight one way or the other. Barrel cylinder gaps are a crapshoot.... and sideplates are so tight it takes the incredible hulk to get them on and off. And of course, the hammer dragging on the side of the frame syndrome. I think something snapped when my brand new 627 arrived and the first thing I saw was how the PC monkey had "adjusted" the barrel cylinder gap with a coarse file.... leaving the end of the cone torn up with razor sharp edges. But what killed me was the monkey couldn't take the five seconds it would have taken to put a piece of tape on the top strap to keep from chewing it up with the file. As it turned out, there were a lot worse things wrong with the gun but that was the first one I saw and it really killed me.

The variable spring rate effect accomplished by these type of products is supposed to reduce PEAK recoil impulse by reducing the force needed to allow the slide to unlock and come out of battery, ergo the initial recoil pulse may be lower in magnitude. Note that total recoil energy is unchanged. I have used similar devices on about 6 different guns because they prevent frame battering and the captive spring makes the gun easier to strip.. I have never noticed any reduction in felt recoil, but that's subjective. I have used Springco and Norecoil.com types. ADD: I would be really interested if somebody did some tests with a "g" meter mounted to the gun to see how the variable rate recoil spring devices change the recoil impulses. I saw such data many years back, kind of interesting.

I have seen some people will drill the face of the safety slightly so the detent ball sinks in a little at the OFF and ON locations to make it harder to move it accidentally.

Yes, I learned it the hard way which is why I don't by SW revos anymore.

I've been on a ton of interviews in the 33 years I worked. Nothing magic about them.

Shiela

Consider the 9mm if you have a better gun you would rather carry. Although the 9mm is generally decried as "underpowered" based on specific misinformation in the general domain, data shows the best 9mm defense rounds are about the same as .40 and .45 ACP. If you give up a couple of percent in OSS with 9mm, you get an increase in round capacity. http://www.handloads.com/misc/stoppingpower.asp?Caliber=0 http://www.chuckhawks.com/handgun_power_chart.htm

Anybody else notice how the ratchets on the OP's extractor are thinner than the ones on mine? Odd.

Mine read about .335" - .340" going back to front in the rear section that holds the round. They are factory MEcGars.

I was going to say the weight might get pretty tiresome. If you are looking for a 1911 double stack with a lot of firepower/mag capacity, Para Ord makes a 14-45 model and a 16-40 that holds 16 rounds of .40SW. FBI one shot stop statistics show the .40 defense loads are almost identical to .45, so you can carry more rounds and a little less weight with the .40. You can carry one less spare mag since the 16 round capacity means each mag equals two of a single stack .45

In a perfect world, or maybe just the one we had a couple of decades ago, SW would fix it. Based on what I have read and seen in recent times, their standard of repair requires some kind of gross malfunction. If the gun fails carry up, that might qualify. But I have read multiple posts about people returning new guns with barrel cylinder gap out of spec (like .012") only to be returned untouched. I have mixed feelings about returning guns to the same butchers who originally screwed them up..... especially considering SW has never extended the courtesy of a paid ship passage to me and transport back to them is going to cost me at least $70. I recommend documenting everything that's wrong and seeing if they will commit to actually fixing it. If not, demand the necessary parts and fix it yourself locally and file the experience in memory for future reference.