bountyhunter

Here's a picture of the extractor on my 627.

Hard to diagnose a trigger problem via telepathy, but one thing that causes doubling is a problem with the disconnector. As for grip screws: I do use blue loctite, and tightening is using a very small shaft screwdriver (fingers on the shaft). They could strip easily.

I would call SW and yell at them for an extractor. take a higher res image and show them the damage to the ends of the ratchets. I have never seen one chewed up like that and certainly no new gun should have this (see below, OP's image)

Midway lists the extractor alone on backorder: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/161052/smith-and-wesson-extractor-assembly-s-and-w-627-new-style?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Numrich lists the 8-shot cylinder for 627 (but is currently sold out). http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/1232520.htm The 6-shot cylinder listed under it shows a picture of the cylinder and extractor as an assembly, so maybe they are sold as a set?

That is a fitted part, the ratchets have to be fitted precisely to the hand for correct timing.Yes I've done several on 625's but not on the 8 shots. Not sure how hard it is to get the 8 shot stars either. Guess if I run across one I'd better grab it? I am not sure where to get one. I don't think SW sells them (?) Might try Brownells and Numrich. I am still concerned with the looks of the ratchets on yours. I have never seen one where the ends were "chewed on" like that and it makes me wonder what the problem was. If it was mine, I'd probably want to put in a new one and would be barking at SW right about now for a free one.

That is a fitted part, the ratchets have to be fitted precisely to the hand for correct timing.

After I took the cylinder/extractor assembly apart, I finally understood what the S&W technician told me: It seems the amount of play is unavoidable. No, it's not unavoidable and it's not normal. I checked my 627 and it has nowhere near that much play. I have also tuned up quite a few other SW revos of the new design and none of them have that much wobble. IMHO, the "fit" tolerance between the extractor and the cylinder is not the tolerance at the D hole, it's the fit at the end of the star "points" where they touch the cylinder. I think the SW "source" is not accurate or making it up as he goes along. Somebody else pointed out those ends might be peened and fitted to take some of that play out. I have never done it (mainly because I never saw one as wobbly as yours) but a gunsmith could do it. To clarify: the design relies on the brass in the tubes to hold that play in check, which is why carry up test on any of the new design guns must be done with brass in the tubes. The gun may carry up OK (?) but I still think the fit of the extractor is poor and should not be that loose. That said, if it passes carry up test you can shoot it as is.

The taper of the nose of the bullet is all I need. If the gun is used for speed shooting and fast reloads are critical, maybe chamfer (?) I have seen some people do it.

May help to "stage" the trigger which is apply slight pressure to take it up to the break point. Then you pull from there. Helps to focus on trigger pressure. Can help stop yanking it.

Well, the reply does not surprise me. As I said above in first post, I would immediately check carry up on gun before firing. 1) Fill cylinder with FIRED brass. 2) use the tip of left index finger to apply a very SLIGHT drag on the face of the cylinder as it turns. 3) Pull trigger normally in DA mode VERY slowly and watch to see if the cylinder stop bolt directly under the cylinder pops up and locks the cylinder before the hammer falls. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, if a gun is failing this (especially a new gun) it needs to be fixed. I would also repeat the carry up test for single action operation. Repeat exactly as above but watch as you thumb cock the hammer as slowly as possible to verify that the cylinder stop locks fully into the cylinder before the hammer cocks fully. If this is not happening, the gun needs to be fixed. If it passes, it is probably good to shoot as is.

Looks like they have already been peened. Something trashed the ends.

Another thing: hard to see exactly with resolution of screen image,but it looks to my eyes like the ends of the extractor ratchets have been peened by somebody probably to try to improve a carry up failure or attempt to "tighten up" the wobble caused by the loose extractor. That thing looks like it has been mugged by a gun butcher from what the screen image shows. Kind of bizarre that a NEW gun would have that kind of damage, but nothing coming out of the SW PC shop can shock me anymore after the experience I had when I bought a new 627.

That is way too much play. Cartridges in the cylinder will restrict it some, but I suspect if you check wobble in lockup with brass in tubes, it will be excessive. I would also check double action and single action carry up with brass in tubes, I suspect it will fail. Old design had the small pins to lock the extractor into the cylinder, but the new (cheap) design does not.

"are things the same for this 1911?" Depends on a myriad of factors. The sear spring is only one of the forces that make up the trigger pull weight. But to answer the question: I would have a gunsmith do it as the angles of the sear face cuts and hammer hooks are unknown on a mass made gun and usually need to be redone by a smith to get a very light trigger pull that is reliable and won't follow or double. probably also need to go to a lighter hammer spring to get lightest trigger pull, I don't know what Kimber ships in theirs.

You can't seriously believe that having some person tell you to violate law absolves you of the crime......... The pertaining laws have been posted here verbatim, what you do is your choice.

Yeah, that's the old "call it machine parts" scam and there is one big problem: if it is lost or stolen, the carrier will not replace or pay because the sender lied about the contents. So, I'm just wondering. If you declare machine parts and it's lost, how can they deny the claim? If it's truly lost, they can't verify that it's a firearm. You think they are going to pay your claim for $1000 or whatever your gun costs if you sent "machine parts"? That's the point. And you wouldn't believe how many guns get stolen.

Yeah, that's the old "call it machine parts" scam and there is one big problem: if it is lost or stolen, the carrier will not replace or pay because the sender lied about the contents.

Out here it is significantly cheaper to use the gun shop (which has an FFL) to send it via USPS. They do charge a fee for that, but the savings in being able to ship USPS is about twice the fee so you come out ahead. I think it cost me maybe $50 to send a gun last time using the gun shop FFL. Out here, sending a gun using Fed Ex or UPS (who require overnight) is at least $100 and they only do it at the "hub" stores which are few.

MILITEC liquid has the same bag of magic beans...... clean, apply heat at high temp, etc. I think it's bogus. The "dry film of protection" is probably going to last about five minutes. IMHO, a good oil mixed into a good grease is what protects best.

+1 Lot of frames get bent doing that at home. Not something I would attempt.

Yeah, I was wondering if another dinosaur would bring that up. The constant tension on the tendons for gripping and pulling is rough on old joints and bodies like I have. Young guys should be able to do it all you want, old guys be careful.

Then I am betting it's the hammer spring. I had a Browning HI power that was similar. I think they used FORD axle springs. There are usually a wide selection of lighter springs available, obviously they can cause light strikes if you go too light.

Indeed! My mind is now moving in new directions... You might want to think automotive, as most grease sold is in that arena. MILITEC which also makes firearm lubes sells their grease in the standard size tubes. Auto grease comes in a standard form factor, a small tube for the hand pump and a larger tube for the pneumatic guns. http://militecusa.com/ Shows the tubes of grease on the front page.

Another effective way to rime the pump is to give it away through available channels. FP-10 did that for a while, they gave away samples to anybody who replied. The thing is you need smaller volume containers because you obviously don't want to give away full size servings as samples.