wgj3

Ive run them with Solo 1000 and Am Select. Both offer pretty low smoke levels and arent too dirty. Ive been a Precision user for a little over 2 yrs now, and Im going to keep using them too.

Mine eats 225 gr TC cast lead like a champ. I went through a couple cases of 185 jhp MG's and finally decided that the price wasnt justified. I tried some lighter stuff too, but that didnt seem to work for me. YMMV.

Sounds like a great deal!

Sounds like a great deal!

If you already have the SS gun, and you dont foresee the opportunity to make use of the 2011's capacity, why fork out the cash? Roll with what you have and use the saved cash for a magwell (if you dont already have one), more practice, and match fees.

We have to be bigger every time that happens. Kill with kindness. Do NOT EVER respond in kind.

As rounds get longer, pressure drops because of greater case volume. One thing that I recenty found was that different bullets profiles allow/disallow longer OALs. I can run precision rnfp's at 1.185, but the super cheap tcfp's that I just picked up require me to drop back to 1.14-5 to run reliably. Every gun is a little different though. Also, as you increase OAL and drop pressures, you will need a bit more powder to make equal PF.

Brass picked up off the range is not trash. Millions and millions of rounds have been loaded and fired without a problem. One instance of operator error is not the fault of the components.

Which way did you go, Mark? I think the extra sight radius of the 6" gun is the reason to use it. I think that the 5.5" gun offers some degree of comprimise; little more sight radius, but not SO long. The function issues of any custom build should be dealt with by your builder.

I use the rifle variety to protect/count/inspect reloads. I know they probably dont need the protection, but it makes me feel a little better and the ammo doesnt make as much noise bouncing around in the metal cans this way.

I had to do the same thing recently, but for a different reason. Ive had no issues. .40 is a high pressure round. You aren't going to hurt anything starting with relatively moderate loads. If you were already at 185pf, you might want to rethink. I say you should be good to go. I had to do the same thing b/c I changed bullets profiles from RNFP to TC. The TC profile wont feed at the same length, so I had to take em down ab .04...

My 930 JM was doing this prior to having the lifter welded. So, I sent it to Triangle Shooting in TX to have Benny's team go over it. Lifter now welded up and shells seem to be missing the "hang up" now. Looks like they may have broken/eased the sharp rear edge of the barrel extension a little.

I used can of Lauer Durabake for the exact same project. Has held up well so far.

Sounds like something our gov't might suggest... Got bad guys giving you grief? Offer em a slice of pie.

I think Mike actually gives you 5 points. He's a generous guy. Sucks that nobody wants his points tho...

IIRC, the actual cup of a rifle primer tends to be a little thicker/heavier than that of a pistol primer. You could use the pistol primers in rifle loads, but might have more issues and/or safety concerns. Could have issues with these lighter cups "blowing" through at rifle pressures and in firearms with floating firing pins you might see AD's/slamfires due to softer cup.

I load all the way out to 1.17 with my .40 Pro; just short enough to fit the mag. No issues like you describe. I would bet that your issue is related to something with the extractor. Keep working in that area, replace spring, maybe even actual extractor.

Gotta revive this one... Thought my thumb was gonna give before 20th rd seated in mag. Not even reloadable. What am I doing wrong? STI 126, DP Para Hicap basepad, Grams 11 coil spring and follower... Any particular fidgeting required?

I would think that 0.2mm would be ok. Prob better a little more snug rather than less.

Im of the same opinion, if you ultimately want to shoot optics, go ahead with the Tac30. Ive been running one for a couple years and think its unbeatable at its price point. I dont think the MTAC is worth an extra $100. I think you would be better served to put that into a better mount. Tac30 rocks for $300!

I began shooting Limited with my .40 Pro. I bought an adjustable rear sight from Novak, but never got around to installing it because the 185 gr Precisions were going to right where I wanted/needed. I swapped out the green fiber for red and have been quite content since.

Ready Tac makes them also. Standard drop, offset style and with extra material for rear sight protection. I believe you can find them at CPWSA.com.

Bad thread to resurrect? New style Al grips holding up better?

The projectiles in the steel match ammo are NOT from the amax line. But, if reloading, those woupd certainly be some to try for your accuracy loads. I started shooting 3gun in HM because I had the guns for it. As I got a little more experience (nothing close to Pat and Benny, of course) I started shooting everything with the 125 gr Speers and 135 gr Sierras. Made major around 2600 fps for uspsa and were incredibly flat in my 16" M1A with a Titan comp. You might consider a lighter, lower priced bullet for most practice, smaller matches, hoser stages, shorter ranges, etc. And, then find the "right" bullet for your gun for the stages beyond 300 yds or so. Just my thoughts; worth no more than what you paid. As long as you are buying factory ammo, just use whatever you can find that is reasonably priced and runs/shoots well in your blaster. Find a "match" load for the longer stuff. Buy in bulk whether local or online so that you can hopefully acheive some same-lot consistency. Best luck. Enjoy.

Go with the M&P Pro. Plenty of aftermarket options available to make it yours. Add a little non-reciprocating mass and some mag extensions and go to town.