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I bought one to use with a Young's carrier. So far, it's just another bolt. I think that the difference would be in longevity. But, how much difference would that really be? Avg x rounds on mil-spec bolt; avg x+y on JP. Figure cost per round and see if it pays for itself in the long-run. My guess is that there are numerous other factors at play that could shorten or lengthen the life of either one based on each individual user... For the time being, I get to say that I have something different that is supposed to be pretty reliable; time will tell.

What's the perceived advantage of this scope over the Bushnell 1-6.5x? Over the SFP Bushnell with -2 reticle...

Ive been on the receiving end of the call (lost pistol from holster while moving; mag inserted, empty chamber) and I felt that staying was the right thing to do. My situation was a little different because I didnt actually endanger myself or anyone else since there was no round chambered. As has been said many times, there are two classes of USPSA shooters: those who have hada DQ, and those who haven't...yet. They happen all the time. Usually a very valuable lesson is learned by all who witness and many who just hear about it. I learned the virtue of holsters with easily adjustable retention. More for stages with more holstered movement.

Also lowers pressure, all other things being equal...

I started with an M&P Pro .40. Used it for 3G, Limited, and ESP in the occasional IDPA match. It has served me very well. I recently picked up a pre-loved 6" STI in 40, but Im still using the M&P while I get a bit more accustomed to the STI...

Basepads also depend on the game. TF's are fantastic; again have option of aluminum or brass. But, they are too long for IDPA. SSS makes a basepad that doesnt add capacity but functions nicely with their smaller magwells. Personally, I have three mags with the brass TF's for limited and 3-gun. Then, I have 5 of the SSS basepads for idpa and/or production. All mags function in both magwells.

This is a slightly tricky question. They have a number of different magwell models for the M&P, I personally have two of those. I have the brass model that has the same dimensions as the ESP model and the standard steel ESP model. I shoot a couple of major IDPA matches every year and I can't use the brass one in IDPA (nothing can be made of material heavier/more dense than common steel). I believe that SSS has or used to have a model with larger dimensions that they marketed as the "Limited" model, and I'm pretty sure that a guy that I used to shoot with has/had one. If I recall correctly it was made of aluminum. Personally, I have around 10K rounds through my pistol over the past 1.5 yrs and the brass model has been on it the entire time except for 3 IDPA matches where I had to take it off to shoot ESP. If you want to shoot IDPA with the pistol, you will need to stick with the steel "ESP" model. If you are only going to shoot the pistol for USPSA and/or 3-gun, I would strongly suggest the brass model for a little extra stationary mass that helps with recoil mitigation. I hope that was clear as mud. Read it twice and then ask for clarification on anything that still isn't clear.

I can show you the one that I got in person.

I've had mine on a recon X and the regular recon... I guess I just cant get a good enough cheek weld. I am a novice when it comes to rifles. And that might be an issue because alot of the other seasoned shooters are fine with this scope... Any chance you would like to get rid of the recon-x?

Look at cheaper than dirt and sportsmans guide. Both have some pretty decent deals on Fiocchi slugs at a couple different power levels.

A very thorough look over the rules for each division may help you make up your mind too. The difference that major/minor scoring can make, equipment location on belt, etc. One thing that's great ab 8-rnd SS is that you get lots of reloading practice on most any stage. I think thats a huge benefit when you are just getting started.

Another thing to consider is that you also need to lube the inside of the case necks for the expander ball to pass through. Pushing the neck of the case down on a lube pad accomplishes this...

As we persist with the issue of "eye box" with this scope, does anyone else think that some of the issue may be related to a longer eye relief? It seems to me that when I back my eye away from the scope an extra inch or so, the eye box gets a bit better. I'm currently thinking that going to a mount with greater forward offset may greatly alleviate the issue. Anybody need a adm recon or lt104? Both are like new, tried mounting but cant get them far enough forward since Im using a slick handguard. I would be interested in swapping for an ADM recon-x or scout-x or the lt139...

Im sure that there are many reasons to not use the coming suggestion, but it has been working for me for many thousands of .45 rounds. As mentioned, you will develop a feel for primer seating with a little time. I havent bothered swaging ANY pistol brass. I keep an RCBS case mouth reamer by my press. Any time I feel a little too much resistance with the new primer, I pull that case out and run the inside chamfer end around the primer pocket just enough to knock the crimp off, pop it back in the press, and keep on rollin'. Never had a primer back out.

And I wasn't intending to belittle the plan, just curious as to the motive behind it.

Most would suggest using the buffer that is intended to go with each tube. Carbine length buffer in carbine tube (or Magpul specific for UBR which is still more carbine). Rifle length buffer in rifle buffer tube as would be used for the PRS. Tube make doesnt matter as much as it being the right tube (length and diameter) for the stock. You would generally want a buffer that matches in size so that your carrier has the appropriate amount of travel. Vary the weight of the buffer to change cyclic rate, felt/perceived recoil, etc... I think.

I have to ask the obvious question, WHY? Irons on a long range round seems to make no sense to me. Pat Here's a second guy who wants to know why...

Lauer puts out a product called Durabake that seems to be holding up ok. Wouldnt bank on it in a high-wear area, but seems to be fine on my ar barrel and pistol magwell. Bet it would be great on a tube or cap or knurled bolt handle too.

Not very cost effective and only useful on certain stages, but the real betas are tough to beat and offer a nice support area if you have a flat place to rest it.

I think that the Tac30 is tough to beat for the $. I dont personally think that the differences between it and the MTAC are worth $100. Ive been running one for two years on my first 3gun rifle. The reticle isnt the best, but the big bold circle will serve you well up close, and the dots will work fine at the ranges you mentioned.

I run a little less with a Precision 185 at 1.18. Ends up ab 4.4. Somewhere in that range would be a decent place to start. May take a little more for the plated projectile. Load a few @ 4.5, chrono, adjust, re-chrono, etc. Longer OAL w/ all other things being equal will yield lower pressure.

I think that the two earlier posters who mentioned reduced slide travel (which may or may not be a bad thing) and inconsistency from spring to spring are the two most important factors to consider. Some people have used them to reduce slide travel for a quicker cycle time/different shot feel. You would want to experiment with and without them with each new spring that you try. And, never change anything like that right before a match where you plan to actually compete...

Most of the mods are "done", but it benefits from a few extra tweaks especially around the loading port area, lifter, etc.

Could lifter mods be causing the issue?

Hmmmm... Do we have am gunsmiths messing with these and causing as many issues as they alleviate?