Sliv2

Because the bulk of his or her posts are trolling the CZ forum?

Springer Precision. Checks all of the functionality boxes and has the lowest price. No brainer.

Is that causation or correlation?

In addition to the feedback given: Unloaded table start (first stage in video): stuff the mags in your pouches first. You can load up the gun a lot easier while running. Get your gun up before coming into position. You should be aiming at a target before you arrive. You're dropping too many points. Especially in Production, you need to be racking up As. I think Tyler Turner said it best, "Points your competition to death."

Not specifically with long guns, but overall pretty dissatisfied with them. The headband breaks for no apparent reason in even mildly-cold weather. Granted, their CS is great about sending replacement bands. But it becomes maddening to go through the process repeatedly. I've moved away from electronic hearing in general. But, if I were going to buy a nice pair again, it would 100% be Sordins.

F cancer.

I could be wrong since I'm going strictly off of memory, but I think they're one of the only retailers selling 12 LB springs.

Truly no offense intended. I'm glad you, ultimately, did not take it that way. I will have to check my books when I get home later today. I know he talks about it on a podcast episode or two, but certainly don't remember the specific episode number(s). He's very easy to get in touch with if you want to hear it straight from the horse's mouth.

I don't mean to be crass, but sometimes blunt feedback is what works best. Your dryfire stinks. You should be gripping the gun harder, and also pressing the trigger harder (one of the most common things overlooked by competitors in general). It's very easy to fool yourself into thinking everything is fine by using dainty trigger presses at home, but then pressing the trigger - for lack of a better term - "for real" at the range. Stoeger's rule of thumb is to press the trigger 50% harder than you think is necessary during dryfire. I highly recommend that. Once your practice becomes more honest, the results become better.

Why?

Just write an email to the right party. They'll change the rules.

ETA: question answered elsewhere.

I made the switch this year. It's been fairly painless: I got used to the weight difference quickly and my grip has not needed to change substantially. That said, I decided to make my life hard and change my grip in the last couple weeks. But, that's no fault to the S2, other than the frame permits for a "better" grip (IMO).

The trigger and magwell are substantially nicer in the Shadow over the regular SP01. As such, I think they are worth the extra few dollars for a competition gun. I switched from Shadows to Shadow 2s for this season, and am very happy about the switch. My old Shadows served me well (practice gun had over 100k rounds through it), but the S2 has welcome upgrades and is ready to go straight out of the box.

There's way too many variables to give a universal answer. I find it almost always best to shoot things in a simple order, rather than consider their difficulty. Essentially, decide you're going to shoot an array left to right, or vice versa. Which target you enter or exit on will depend on which you can see first and at what time, body positioning, level of skill*, etc. *(meaning some shooters may be not able to, or comfortable with, shooting a headbox while entering a position and would rather leave on it while they're still stationary)

That makes me slightly more optimistic, thanks

Out of curiosity, who here has had success with open registration in the last couple of years?

Probably just regular maintenance, namely changing out recoil springs, if I'm permitted to speculate. Or, as troll master yigal says, they used Tanfo slide stops instead

Based on internet feedback, it appears we're more likely extremely likely, and in the minority, without suffering broken slide stops.

My practice S1 made it past 100k rounds on its original slide stop (the "cut" version from AA) with 11lb recoil springs.

Once you have a range set up with the necessary equipment, here is a compilation of some short courses: http://www.speedslide.com/category/short/ All of this assuming you choose to set up actual stages rather than drills.

Can't see the hits, so I'll only address what's plainly visible. -You need to get the gun up WAY earlier when coming into position. -Set up wider and lower in an athletic stance. -When it's time to run, actually RUN. -Snap your eyes to the next target during transitions. There were a few wide transitions where you were tracking the gun instead of hunting the next target. -Smoking can wait until after the stage (or, ya know, quit, but I digress). -Develop a routine that prevents distractions when you're getting close to your turn to shoot. Running to the wrong position from the table start is easy to eliminate with a few more minutes of dedicated visualization. -Spend time on drills that require "changing gears." Your splits were almost identical on far targets and ones you could almost touch.

That's a fairly loaded question, but I'll do my best. 1. That's common. Even the best shooters in the world have guns with magwells that look like a dog chewed on them. 2. It becomes less frequent with more, and more frequent, practice. Dry fire 6 days per week; work reloads in at some point. 3. Physical visualization: Your eyes should find the inner lip of the magwell. That requires you to figure out the correct reload position in dry fire. Some people keep the gun higher; some people bring it lower and closer. There's no uniform "right" way to do it. 4. Mental visualization: Mentally run through what you need to do for 3 (above) before each drill, or each run of the drill. Treat it like a stage at a match where you are mentally rehearsing your plan. 5. Practice, practice, practice.

You're my hero.

I have a room dedicated to dryfire, so I lay it on the floor...