robertg5322

Got Kimber model on 3 guns. Downward movement limited by extended hammer pin. Nice design, 1/3 the cost of ehe EGW. Works great, many thousands of rounds through all 3 gins.

Shoot a few matches in dirty gravel and you're going to eventually have to clean mags. When you do you learn to appreciate the ones with removable bases that give a cleaning brush full access. Can other mags be cleaned, of course. But it's so much easier with f ull access from the bottom.

$30.00 is not expensive, you're right about that. But it is more than $17.00. I consider mags consumables. They get dropped, stepped on and kicked around in matches and practice. I like knowing I don't need a specific mfr's product to keep my guns running. That said, I have yet to have one get messed up so bad I couldn't make it work.

Kimber Custom II, circa 2000 (not loose at all) and a Les Baer Hardball gun (they do not have a reputation for being loose and this one is not loose even now after I-don't-know how many thousands of rounds through it) bought in 2006 both run with any mag (so far). Both used for USPSA SS shooting.

Had 2 .45s (turned one into a .40 a couple of years ago), both would run with any magazine, from $7.00 Del Mar Gun Show Shooting Star mags to Ed Brown 8 Pack. Last year I got tired of pulling the guts out the top of the mags to clean them and picked up some Mec Gar mags. I like the way they disassemble. Makes them easier to clean. They're affordable ($17.00 each if memory serves) and have run fine for the past several thousand rounds. I'm one of those guys who believes that since 1911 guns in .45ACP have been in production for over 100 years, they should have the magazine issue solved by now and the mags shouldn't break the bank. If the mags are in spec, and the gun isn't working, fix the gun. It should run with any in-spec mags out there. Sig seems to have a pretty good reputation for reliability so I doubt you'll have trouble finding mags that work with it.

As long as they feed the gun and don't hang up mag changes by sliding forward under firing conditions, I'll deal with the pita that manually unloading them entails. In a perfect world, yeah, unload with ease either via gun or by hand, but if I have to choose, I'll go with functioning gun first. And you can always just leave them loaded.

That's ok, cause I don't often find myself manually unloading magazines on the clock...

Metalform here. They're less expensive than the others, work well and Dawson uses their tubes and guts so that tells you something about them. Plastic base pad also helps when making weight. Tripp is also well respected, I have a friend with them and he says they work great. Can't say anything about the others, never used them. And Springfield 9 round versions worked well too. Both styles (one that comes with the gun has the ridge down the front, the ones you get for free with their Loaded deal had the spacer in back).

I'm thinking the caliber conversions, do the dies from Mini work on the big unit?

I'm always looking for minimalist, functional and rock solid mounts. Surprising how hard that is to find. I currently have the holster mounted with a U shaped piece of Kydex between it and the Tek Lock. Works and leaves nothing hanging below the belt mount to dig into my thigh.

I currently have Mini Mr. Bullet Feeders in .40 & 9mm. If I upgrade to the full-house Mr. Bullet Feeder, does anyone know which parts I have from the Mini Mr. Bullet Feeders I can use on the big unit and not have to buy again? Thanks. Bob

Works great for small primers. Large not so well. You gotta mess with it to find out what makes it work. I have the Dillon thing, but keep getting flipped primers (only about 1 or 2 per 100, but that's annoying as hell). Someday I'm going to sit down and make that thing (the Dillon) work 100%. Someday...

No, as Eric stated the problem is they're cast aluminum (fancy words for junk) and the torque of the screw tears them. I hadn't though to use hose clamps, I was going to trim a brake pad shim (spring steel, strong) to fit and use that when I got around to it. I did send an e mail to Safariland, but they don't seem too interested in responding to me. Guess I'm done with their stuff. Great idea, really poor execution.

Hello. After much review reading, I bought a Safariland USPSA holster hanger. It seemed (and turned out to be) as good as advertised with one glaring exception; The strips on the back of the belt hanger are (were!!) aluminum. First attempt to hang the thing on my DAA belt and they crumbled as I was tightening the screws. Anyone know of a source of good, spring stainless steel I can use to replace the Safariland crap? I like the hanger, but the belt retainers were pure junk. Thanks.

Get case feeder and bullet feeder. Then all you have to do is crank, index and watch to make sure everything is working as it should.

Ready Tactical. Nothing takes up less room on a belt and nothing is faster. Not sure they'll work with a 1.75" belt or the Safariland system though.

Metalform 10 round mags have worked flawlessly for me. Less expensive as well. Dawson uses Metalform tube and guts so there's that.

When I got mine, I put a new MSH/Magwell in it, with stock cap and 17lb IMSI (I think) mainspring. Has worked fine for about 4k rounds so far. I figured if I had light strike issues, I'd change the firing pin and/or firing pin spring, but the need hasn't popped up yet... Firing pin is one of the few small parts that I didn't replace (Ejector, extractor and barrel link being the others) in my quest to make the gun better. Still loose as hell but shoots real nice.

Or use a seat/crimp die to free up station 4. Takes a bit longer to set up, but you only have to do that once.

Just curious why you feel the plastic trigger "cheapens the product", but not the same about the plastic grip. I'm of the opinion (and it is just my opinion, not trying to force it on you just making conversation here) that the plastic grip being: a. a larger part of the overall product, and b. more "connected" to the operator would be a bigger issue. Of course it costs $20.00 or so to replace a plastic trigger with a metal one while you're going to have to sink $500.00 - $800.00 into it to get a metal grip (2011 guns). All of that said, I'm a fan of the plastic triggers. Not enough of a fan to replace all of my triggers with one, but when I do replace triggers I like the plastic. I like that they're so easy to fit to the gun. I also like the fact that the color is not a coating, so my all black 1911 continues to be all black, no wear marks on the trigger (thought the slide and frame are another story, but you gotta use a holster and I like good, honest wear from use so there's that), the overtravel screw does not need locktite to stay set and the plastic as a certain lubricity which makes fitting it snug in the trigger track with no drag pretty easy. If I didn't know the trigger was plastic, I wouldn't know the trigger was plastic. It has no more flex, and it not cheap feeling (unlike the aluminum POS that came with my 9mm Springfield 1911). No preference on the plastic grip, though I'm with you on the sandpaper grip tape (though VZ grips are nice on Single Stack guns, way more aggressive than sandpaper grips), the more aggressive, the better (20 LPI front strap checkering is my preference). My Limited gun is a Caspian High Cap, which is a steel framed behemoth. And it has an aluminum trigger, but Caspian is not as common as S_I, so there are limited options with regard to triggers. I've seen the SVI super aggressive steel grips, if I were looking for a new Limited gun, they'd be something I would seriously be checking out.

You changing out the plastic grip as well?

First verify that they do not in fact work.

I like STI's plastic trigger. I installed one in my Springfield 9mm (Single Stack) and it's a very nice unit. MSH is usually going to get changed out if you add magwell so that one's kind of a non-issue (unless you're not adding a magwell of course). If I might ask, what is your issue with the plastic trigger?

Like the undercut triggerguard and F/O front sight. Not crazy about the non-Bomar style rear sight. And is the 9mm barrel ramped? Front strap checkering and magwell also missing. Price? If it's $800.00 or less, and not a rattle trap, maybe it'll sell. Colt fans will love it no matter what. As stated, a 1911 marketed toward USPSA shooters with no option for .40 S&W is missing the boat.

I had a detonation blow up my pinky, so I now rack from rear serrations, pinching the slide between my thumb and the side of my index finger. Ejection is down (I shoot pistols left handed) and if it were to happen again the hope is it would be away from anybody's eyes or my hand. Racker on oposite side of gun would probably work reaching over gun and ejecting down and away from my hands but I kind of like my guns to look like guns.