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JWBaldree

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About JWBaldree

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs

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  • MSN
    jwbaldree@cox.net

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sagle, Idaho
  • Interests
    USPSA, 3 gun, Dirt Riding, My kids club softball
  • Real Name
    Jim Baldree

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  1. I dunno on this, there are a lot of variables that go into people's perception of your being a douche or not. How many people are setting up while you are walking stages? If only a few are trying to put everything together while everyone else is goofing off or planning to win the first prize lear jet (that's first prize at every match, right?) then yes, you are a dick. If the set up crew is looking for things to do or eating donuts while they are gossiping, with no stress involved, and everyone knows that you will be a work-a-holic the rest of the day then no, you are not a douche. Some examples at our club: Me personally, I live 100 minutes away and am not a morning person. For our normal USPSA and 3 gun that I am not match director for, I like to stroll in as late as possible, finish waking up with a Dutch Bros blended carmelizer and a pop tart, and everyone knows I will be working like a rabid dog the rest of the day and will be tearing down 2 - 3 stages at the end of the day. I'm the last one to leave. The USPSA and 3 gun matches that I do MD, I have to be up by 5am to get stuff going. Grr. I also MD our Wednesday steel matches. They start at 4pm, so I have no problem finishing my Dutch Bros. before I get everyone going on set up. First one there, last to leave. When the guys that MD and do most of the setup / teardown for our USPSA and 3 gun show up, I expect them to shoot, BS a little, and then leave. Usually a few will stay and help tear down, and that is nice of them, but not expected. They do enough as it is. Our club is fortunate in that out of say 30 regular members, at least 12 will be there on the morning matches pitching in and getting stuff done, and at least 12 will be tearing down down at the end of the day. Most know who likes to do what, and the world turns as it should. We do have a few douche bags though. The guys that want to walk stages while they are being built and do nothing to help. The guys that can't seem to show up in time for registration. Usually these dicks are informed of their douchiness and told to get out of the way or just not allowed to play when excessively tardy. Every club has a different vibe. You just need to figure yours out.
  2. Finally got around to ordering parts and getting them installed today. First off, pulled the over travel screw, and still had the problem. Screwed around trying to find some extra stuff I might need in order to justify shipping costs, hence the long delay. Gave up and broke down and ordered a new sear spring and a new sear. Replaced just the sear spring, hammer still followed. Replaced the sear too and problem went away. Took a closer look at the original, and the sear face had just the slightest raised portion n between where the hammer hooks rest. Gave it three swipes with a file and stuck it back in. No hammer follow either. I put the new one back in the gun (fitted for the safety first) and will hold onto the original for a spare, in case I need it 30 - 50,000 rounds from now. Sigh.
  3. Sorry, but all of that should be built into the price of the merchandise, except for the cost of the mailer and the stamp. The stockroom/ shipping kid and the book keeper are there regardless of how many orders are placed per day (either that or they are looking for new work). And even hand writing out a label, I'm fairly certain that even a tax credit hire could get it done in less than ten minutes ($2 / $12 x 60 minutes). For reference, I owned four furniture stores for 25 years before retiring, Shipping, receiving, prepping orders, customer deliveries, all that fun stuff. This is a case of take the 3/8" flat spring, stick it in a small plastic bag (1" x 2"), stick that in an envelope, stick a label and a stamp on it and off it goes. If it took the stockroom kid more than five minutes to do from start to finish while taking his time and chatting away, I'd be shocked. As for the rest, pretty sure the POS system would be doing all the heavy lifting, and that the book keeper wouldn't even be aware of my order, other than to note it as a nuisance for the day's sales if a quick audit was performed. I'm going with actual cost to ship of less than $2, if they put some thought into it and didn't just grab the standard box that they currently use for everything and Fed Ex or Priority Flat Rate the package. Like I said in my OP, I get that no one will be closing early from my $2 order. I also acknowledge that small stuff like that can be more of a nuisance to a vendor than a bigger order. Same processes to get the thing out the door, with the same potential for customer interactions for very little money. But retailers need to realize that customers do generate a perception to their policies, and not all of them are positive. Most bad experiences occur from simple mistakes / processes that have huge perception issues. Just saying.
  4. Need a sear spring for my CZ, $2. Every vendor wants $8.50- $10 to ship it. I get that no one is going to close early from a $2 sale, but I spend enough money with these companies anyways. How hard is it to throw a small flat spring in an envelope, stick an address label on it and a stamp, and bill me say $2 to ship the $2 part? Wanting to charge 5x the price makes feel a little like Ned Beatty's stud double in Deliverance. Rant off.
  5. The screw is tight and the trigger bar spring is as it should be. Gene, not sure what you mean by the hammer moving rearward at the start of the pull. Are you thinking there might be some fore and aft slop? If so, nothing discernable. Just a bit of takeup in the trigger, and then the hammer starts rotating like normal.
  6. Probably coincidental, but I swapped my cadet upper onto my Shadow Custom, and it started having hammer follow issues. Mkay, figured I got some .22 gunk somewhere making it wonky. Pulled it all apart, cleaned it all out and put her back together with the 9mm upper. I can cycle it by hand and everything is hunky dory. Gun is empty and the trigger works like it should. Push on the back of the hammer and it stays in place. The hammer and sear look like they are supposed to, with no rounded edges. Safety works as advertised. Try and feed from a mag, or drop the slide from slide lock and the hammer follows. Sear spring maybe? It's got 30,000 plus, plus a bunch of dry fire time on it. I know stuff isn't new forever, but I can't see anything else that looks worn or wonky. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
  7. Seems like you are getting too wrapped up in the actions of one dirtbag. Like it or not, his actions fall under ‘cost of doing business’. If you were turning a healthy profit, or earning a huge salary running matches, I’m guessing you would not be taking it so personal. The fact that the guy is pissing all over your volunteer efforts and passion makes it personal. Don’t give him the power to pee in your Cheerios. Having said that, there is no reason you can’t fire him as a customer. That would eliminate future stress. Also, if he ever registers for a USPSA event of yours and you decide to let him shoot, just follow Chalee’s advice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. FWIW, I also 3 gun with a SP-01. I use a Safariland 5198, and tighten the tension screw slightly. Not sure I’d want to shoot Hard As Hell with it, but it has been solid for everything else, club and majors, with plenty of running, jumping and prone. Heck, I’d even rappel off a barstool with it and not worry about losing my gat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. You are going to need a crew. Figure one responsible party per stage, plus someone to handle registration. Your job is to get those people organized and busy doing what they do. If you try and do everything yourself, you will last about three matches. Spread the love around. Get a good inventory of all your props / equipment, and make sure items don't get double booked when designing stages. If you are new to designing stages, then find an experienced competitor to help you out. Stages don't need to be complicated or gimmicky to be good. Someone who shoots sectional / state / area / national matches probably has a collection of match booklets with good stages, or at least can remember their favorites. Make sure your tablets are charged and the timers have good batteries. Getting back to the help thing, as an example our club has USPSA, Steel and 3 gun divisions. each division has a responsible party, plus at least two other volunteered co-MDs. On USPSA days, there are at least five people on hand that know where everything is, and how to get stuff done. The MD hands out assignments, turns everyone loose, and then makes sure things happen smoothly. Learn to delegate and then get out of the way.
  10. Somebody explain this to me like I’m 2. How does dropping a mag into a SS legal holster even begin to be remotely helpful? I’m trying to picture picking up the mag with the gun hand, dropping into the holster, then actually grabbing the gun and going, and then trying to reload out of the holster. Maybe I’m missing the concept here, but all I can think of is retarded gaming or brain fart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I run an outlaw steel match for our club. Basically it is Rio's Tuesday Night Steel, but we do it on Wednesday's. Anyhow, 2 stages are action steel type shooting and one stage will be a steel challenge type of stage. I try to keep each stage at 25 rounds, so 75 minimum for the match. The match fee of $15 allows one to shoot it as many times as they want to. A couple of times a year I will throw in a 4 to 8 stage match on an empty weekend, half action steel and half steel challenge. I got to this format by polling our members at the end of every season. The action type stages are preferred around here by a ten to one ratio. My advice, copy some Rio stages from off of Youtube videos for a few matches, and then ask your members. Don't worry, they'll tell you what they liked and what they didn't. In fact, I'm not sure why more clubs don't do this. We do this for our steel, USPSA and 3 gun divisions yearly. It makes it real easy to find out what's working and what isn't.
  12. I would echo this sentiment. In my neck of the woods, we have two clubs, one non profit and one for profit. Full disclosure, I am on the board of the non profit. We are very lucky to have double digit numbers of willing volunteers, so things get done. Props are built and repaired, new stuff is ordered, etc. We are a 4 bay club, but could easily outfit a 8 to 10 bay match. The for-profit club does not have that volunteerism spirit. The guy that runs it is nice enough, and has done a lot to promote practical shooting and gun rights, but at the end of the day it's for profit and not many are willing to help him out unless they are getting paid or a discounted match fee. Let's face it, it would be very tough to run a viable for profit match, paying every one that helps out what they would deserve. On to the shirt thing, I've worked a couple of matches and shot more than a few where the staff has an easily discernible uniform shirt. It does 'up' the feel of the match, and makes life easier for both staff and competitors when the staff is instantly recognizable via their shirts. My only suggestion to MD's would be to make the shirt something that can be a daily wear item after the fact. Some get so specific in design that they become a one use item. If you are going to spend the money on them, make them something that I'll want to wear a year or two down the road. Almost forgot, spend the extra $2 or whatever it is an buy us the good moisture wicking material too.
  13. First things first, pattern board or grab a 18 x 24 plate and see if the gun fits you. Shoulder it with a quick aimed shot and make sure your pattern is in the center of the board or plate. Shim or trim your stock as necessary so that it hits center. Next, most IPSC flying clays are usually coming out of toasters or flippers and generally traveling relatively straight up. At the top of their travel, for a brief moment in time, they are completely motionless and no lead is needed at all. Just point and pull. The next easiest way to hit these clays is on their way up. Catch up to the clay and accelerate through it. As you accelerate through it and lose sight of the clay, pull the trigger while keeping the barrel moving. Same same for descending clays, except you really have to be moving the barrel fast. It is a much harder shot. Occasionally I see a stomp pad that triggers a clay thrower, with the clay headed relatively outbound. From the shooters perspective, these also appear stationary in flight, moving on a steady rise. From this perspective, no lead is necessary, just point and pull. This is assuming that you hit the clay before it starts to descend. The best place to practice these shots is station 7 on a skeet field, shooting the low house outbound. If you want a little angle to work leads, move back to station 6 and again work the low house. If you see a lot of crossers or just want to learn to shoot them, skeet is your game. Easiest way is to find a good coach and pay for a couple of hours of lessons. If you are a DIY kind of guy, just pick a station on the field and work that station until you can connect. Play with different leads and barrel accelerations. You will find a combination that makes sense to your brain and is repeatable. If you want to work on your mount and tracking in dry fire, find a room in your home with some working space, and observe the line where a wall meets the ceiling. From port arms mount the gun and track that line as smoothly as possible. Your body should be rotating as you mount the gun. Hope the above helps.
  14. JWBaldree

    sight alignment

    I doubt new grips are going to help. A new backstrap profile will, but that sounds expensive. Glocks always indexed high for me, I never could train it out. I quit fighting it and moved on. You may need to do the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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