dmshozer1

Very true but if you pick it up at a local range with the primer still crimped it was likely not shot from a Saw. Quite possable could be from a Saw if you bought the brass from a comercial dealer.

If the rd you pick up is LC and it still has the crimp in it, it is a good bet it has been fired once. I don't know of anyone that reloads that recrimps the primer. Same with some Win and other brands.

Behind the shell latch there is a triangler shaped spring. Cut two coils off the big end. This will allow the shells from the extended tube to work the latch properly. Sometimes you have to cut three coils. If you go to far the gun will run but will not lock back on the last rd.

Most people would have called Warne to see if there was a simple fix. End of story..

Then maybe you should have waited to see if the new mounts solved the problem before you "did not slam" Warne mounts

Sorry, A longer barrel on a shotgun gives you a longer sight radius and maybe better follow through but not a better pattern. The BB's going down any length barrel are forced into the choke that you have selected The choke, the size of the BB's, the velocity and the type of wad in the shell that containes the BB's are what determines your pattern. Turkey hunting guns have to have a very good, very tight patten. Most of them have 18, 22 and 24 inch barrels.

Where is your Shotgun match?

Load some rds. Measure over all length. Put one rd. in a mag. Put the mag in your gun with the bolt locked back. Hit the release to chamber the rd. Eject the rd. Measure it to see how much the bullet has set back. I allow .003 to allow for the tip of the bullet to be deformed from hitting the feed ramp. Works for me.

That may work at a big match where they have a dedicated score keeper working with the SO but who wants to be responsible for that at a local match? In my experiance at local matches most shooters could not handle that job. Look at these pages. Most people do not have a clue on most of the rules and these are the experianced shooters!

Are you kidding me!! Talk about time consuming! A squad of shooters may want to engage the targets using cover in different ways than the next guy. Now the SO has to take the time to tell them either they can or cannot do it that way. Here we go again that it depends on the SO's interpertation. If the SO is moving with that squad from stage to stage, their idea will probably be different than the SO in another squad. Funny. And they talk about how it would hold up a squad if a SO had to put a over lay on a target once in a while to see what the actual scoring call should be. One more grey area! By the way, in a citizen type gun fight there probably will not be a reload. Someone will be dead or wounded in a few rds. Statistics have proven that.

Installed mine on a 550. Very easy. No adj except to align the swager where it comes through the hole in the plate. LC brass once fired. CCI and REM primers. 25 each. Did not roll over the crimp like my Dillon swager. It took a lot of handle pressure to get any roll over. End result was I ruined most of the 50 primers. They did seat but they all went into the practice box because most of them had mash marks on them because of the pressure required to seat them. I then screwed the shell plate down so it bottomed out thinking that would make the swager put more of a roll over on each case. Nope, same thing. More practice rds. The swager now sits on my bench with a no refund policy.

Nice shooting, nice group. Really. Perfect example of why one needs to fire at least 10 shots to check their group and then try to repeat it. In the above group, some are in what looks to be 2" some are not. Overall group looks to be around 5 or 6". It may have been that the first 5 went into 2" but then opened to 6" or the other way around. 10 shots, then repeat. For real.

I completely agree. 4" groups are common at 25 yds but 2" groups are a different story. At 15yds most better than average guns should produce a group as shown.

You have been reading to many gun magazines. Most guns are not capable of 2" groups with any ammunition. Period!! You may be lucky to have one that does but that is all it is. Luck. Your post is based off what data? I'm guessing about as much luck as what you are accusing here. Gen 4 17's already have a good reputation of this kind of accuracy. DonovanM and another fellows on FB getting sub 2" groups is what helped me switch to Glocks. Try 10 shot groups and then repeat the 10 shot groups and report back. Be honest. I have often shot 3, 4, and five shot 2" groups but go to 10 shots to really see what the gun is capable of. Been at this a very long time. I hang with a lot of very good shooters with very good equipment. It has been very rare to see any IDPA, IPSC or three gun type pistol produce consistent 2" groups at 25 yds. I will admit that some guns will do it but very few. Like I said, you may have one and if you do, you are lucky.

Check to see if the bullets are contacting the suppresser. At 15 yds you should be getting in my opinion much better groups.

An adjustable gas block is not going to help if the hole in the barrel is to small to cycle your gun. The block is meant to turn down the gas when the hole is bigger than necessary. The adj. block can then close off the hole reducing the amount of gas to operate the gun. I had two DPMS 16" rifle length barrels. Both had .100 size gas holes. They were both over gassed. Fixed them with adj. gas blocks by turning the gas down. Good luck with your build. You will learn a lot by the time you are done with it.

If the barricade or what ever you are shooting off is not squared up with what you are shooting at, your reticle will be tilted in relation to the target. I have found that what ever you are resting the forearm on, it is usually not level. They are very nice but I will stick with a round one.

I ran a DPMS 16" 1-9 twist rifle gas barrel in 3gun for three years. Shot it out. Bought another one. Ran it until it shot out. Used different comps, all kinds of ammo. Using good ammo, because it was short and stiff, it held 1moa out to 300. I think if it had a 1-8 twist it might have been better. Don't know. Accurate enough for 3gun in my opinion. Recommended one to a friend. Same deal. I switched to a 18" and really don't know why. I think it was because DPMS said it would be awhile before they would have another production run of them so I got a DPMS Mk 12 that was in stock. I believe Bruce Piatt ran a 16" He seemed to do okay with his.

You have been reading to many gun magazines. Most guns are not capable of 2" groups with any ammunition. Period!! You may be lucky to have one that does but that is all it is. Luck. I will also add that many guns will shoot a tight group now and then but not consistently. Can you have a gun that will do that? Yes. But to have a stock gun do it, rarely.

You have been reading to many gun magazines. Most guns are not capable of 2" groups with any ammunition. Period!! You may be lucky to have one that does but that is all it is. Luck.

Tim, Is the buffer spring included in your kit? By the way. The .22 lite weight barrel you sent me is super!

Agreed... This is why I don't shoot clays. There are many top tier action pistol shooters who are cross dominant. I believe there are very few successful cross dominant clays gunners. I agree

I don't think "both eyes open" is a game changer when shooting mostly static targets like we do in IDPA,IPSC type games. I do think it is more important when the targets are moving like skeet, trap and sporting clay type games. I think the peripheral vision with both eyes open is needed to pick up the moving targets.

I have been the RO when the same shooter blew up two different Glocks a few months apart. SCARY!! Being a 1911 shooter, I knew nothing about Glocks at that time. He always bragged as did many Glock shooters that cleaning their guns was a waste of time because they ran so clean. I started shooting Glocks. I am a clean freak. For a year or so I often cleaned my 17 but never stripped the slide down. When I finialy did I found a LOT of crap in the striker channel and around the disconnect plunger. A LOT of crap. I run both lead and jacketed. If the disconnect sticks in the down position from crap, the striker hits the primer before the gun goes into battery. BOOM! Not saying I am an expert, just my own experience with Glocks. So, maybe the Browning was a loading problem? Maybe the Glock was a cleaning problem? I don't know. Just trying to help. You shot lead bullets in your Glock? What barrel? Disconnect plunger? Are you referring to the firing pin safety (#9 in the following image)? http://blogs.militarytimes.com/gearscout/files/2012/01/G17-Gen4-Exploded-View-with-legend3.jpg If so, if it was stuck in the down position, the gun could never fire as the firing pin wouldn't be allowed to move forward. If it was stuck in the up position, it simply would remove that safety mechanism from operating safely but it shouldn't change the firing pin from hitting the primer in a normal fashion (it would simply take away from the prevention of the firing pin striking the primer if the gun was dropped for example). The firing pin safety does not affect the firing pin during normal operation (i.e., it doesn't hold the firing pin back from hitting the primer until in battery). Yes, #9. When you push the plunger up into the slide the striker is allowed to move forward and sticks out of the breech face. If the plunger remains in the up position the striker stays protruding from the breech face. Going forward it will strike the loaded shell and may cause the shell to fire out of battery. I will agree that to do this the gun would have to be very dirty and that was my point in the post. Bar- Sto barrel. I'll have to check tonight when I go home to confirm, but the firing pin should not stick out of the breech face once the gun has fully cycled (whether the plunger is present and functional, fully removed or fully depressed). I think you are in for a surprise. I have personally seen five Glocks go boom. Two, I was the RO. The other three I saw the result. All had the top of the slide blown out. Very little damage if any to the frame or mag. To me, that indicates an out of battery explosion. I don't really know that but it is what I believe happened. I have seen detonations from NOT ENOUGH POWDER and double charge blow ups. Damage was to the slide, frame and most of the time to the mag and some of the top bullets in the mag. No expert but that is the conclusion I have drawn. This is not a rant on Glocks. I shoot one in competition almost every week and clean it after every event! That's all I got. Merry Christmas . No surprise here, your theory is incorrect. Even with the firing safety plunger fully removed, the firing pin will not operate as you suggest (i.e., remain protruding from the breech face and striking the primer before fully into battery). Once a Glock is fired and the firing pin is protruding from the breech face, the firing pin could remain protruding as the slide cycles rearward (and could remain exposed for the full rearward travel). Once the slide begins to travel forward to go into battery, before the slide would travel the remaining ~1/2" forward, the trigger bar will contact the rear of the firing pin and pull it rearward (and away from the breech face) as the gun continues into battery and therefore there is no way the firing pin could be exposed. In summary, the firing pin will not strike the primer before the gun goes into battery in a Glock, whether it has an operable firing pin safety or not. If the same guy blew up two Glocks within months of each other, I would be questioning his loads, and not the cleanliness of his Glock or the operation of his firing pin safety. Sounds good. I hope you are right. I will continue to clean my Glock.

I have been the RO when the same shooter blew up two different Glocks a few months apart. SCARY!! Being a 1911 shooter, I knew nothing about Glocks at that time. He always bragged as did many Glock shooters that cleaning their guns was a waste of time because they ran so clean. I started shooting Glocks. I am a clean freak. For a year or so I often cleaned my 17 but never stripped the slide down. When I finialy did I found a LOT of crap in the striker channel and around the disconnect plunger. A LOT of crap. I run both lead and jacketed. If the disconnect sticks in the down position from crap, the striker hits the primer before the gun goes into battery. BOOM! Not saying I am an expert, just my own experience with Glocks. So, maybe the Browning was a loading problem? Maybe the Glock was a cleaning problem? I don't know. Just trying to help. You shot lead bullets in your Glock? What barrel? Disconnect plunger? Are you referring to the firing pin safety (#9 in the following image)? http://blogs.militarytimes.com/gearscout/files/2012/01/G17-Gen4-Exploded-View-with-legend3.jpg If so, if it was stuck in the down position, the gun could never fire as the firing pin wouldn't be allowed to move forward. If it was stuck in the up position, it simply would remove that safety mechanism from operating safely but it shouldn't change the firing pin from hitting the primer in a normal fashion (it would simply take away from the prevention of the firing pin striking the primer if the gun was dropped for example). The firing pin safety does not affect the firing pin during normal operation (i.e., it doesn't hold the firing pin back from hitting the primer until in battery). Yes, #9. When you push the plunger up into the slide the striker is allowed to move forward and sticks out of the breech face. If the plunger remains in the up position the striker stays protruding from the breech face. Going forward it will strike the loaded shell and may cause the shell to fire out of battery. I will agree that to do this the gun would have to be very dirty and that was my point in the post. Bar- Sto barrel. I'll have to check tonight when I go home to confirm, but the firing pin should not stick out of the breech face once the gun has fully cycled (whether the plunger is present and functional, fully removed or fully depressed). I think you are in for a surprise. I have personally seen five Glocks go boom. Two, I was the RO. The other three I saw the result. All had the top of the slide blown out. Very little damage if any to the frame or mag. To me, that indicates an out of battery explosion. I don't really know that but it is what I believe happened. I have seen detonations from NOT ENOUGH POWDER and double charge blow ups. Damage was to the slide, frame and most of the time to the mag and some of the top bullets in the mag. No expert but that is the conclusion I have drawn. This is not a rant on Glocks. I shoot one in competition almost every week and clean it after every event! That's all I got. Merry Christmas .