Tcon260

Does anyone make STI Dummy Magazines for dry firing?

My wife and I have shot out a lot of barrels shooting F-Class. I used to spend a day at the range ding the 1 shot clean method. I have given up on this method for the last 5 barrels or so. I do know that a barrel will have a lot of copper for some small number of shots…2-3 or as many as 10 depending on the barrel. Since I tend to shoot a few number of shots in each session in the beginning of a new barrel load development…testing a few charges for velocity. I go to the range and shoot whatever I have to shoot. Take the barrel home and clean it down to bare metal. I repeat this until the barrel quits looking like a penny inside. Since I have a borescope, I know exactly when this happens. I have given up on brushes and Sweets in favor of wipeout for removing copper. Good luck

I have shot long range F-class Open for about 10 years…I'm not really that good, but my wife is very good. She is a national champion and still holds the women's 1000 yard record, so I know my loading method works…its not the only way, but it works. Here is what I do. YMMV Own a redding neck sizing die and various bushings to get the neck interference (i.e. neck tension) that works best…really doesn't matter what the measurement is…test it on the target. Own a shoulder bumping die for when the headspace increases to the point that the last little bit of closing the bolt gets hard. Bump the shoulder back 0.001" - 0.002" depending on how well your press and brass maintain consistency. My Redding T-7 turret and annealed brass are consistent so I can usually do 0.001" setback. Own a FL die for when the bolt is hard to close for the full rotation. I usually neck size and only bump shoulder every 3-5 firings and hardly ever FL size. Do you self a favor and run from anyone that tells you to neck turn, especially on a factory chamber. Neck turning is for custom, tight chambered barrels where you have specified a neck diameter on your custom reamer. Even then, I have found it to not make any difference on the target. In fact, I sold all three of my neck turners just so I would not be tempted to ever turn necks again. I size my neck down below the final ID I want. Then I open the neck back up with a mandrel like the ones used for neck turning. Then all of the inconsistency of the neck wall thickness is pushed to the outside and my neck tension is consistent. I have found very light neck tension to work best for me, so by using mandrels for neck turning, I end up with 0.0075" - 0.001" neck interference (i.e. tension). Works for me. If I wanted for neck tension, then I would just take the mandrel and spin it in a drill and use emory to make it smaller to get the interference (tension) I wanted. Lots of ways to do it…this one ay that works for me.

Thanks guys…sounds like a short tumble will do it

I'm loading coated bullets….currently blue bullets. If I use lube…probable One Shot, how do you all remove the lube. Can I tumble the loaded rounds?

rjacobs has it right. Buy one of these http://www.hornady.com/store/Headspace-Gauge-Kits/and learn how to use it. I do, however, disagree with setting headspace to match new factory loaded ammo. New factory ammo has headspace set to for a chamber cut to SAMMI minimum. Instead, do this: -Shoot some factory ammo through your rifle -Measure the headspace -Set your die so that headspace is 0.003" less for autoloaders and 0.001" less for bolt guns -Shoot your reloaded ammo with your die set this way, and measure headspace after a couple of loadings. Once you have a good, fully fire formed case that fits your chamber, set the die for 0.003" less. I find that all three of my AR's have exactly the same headspace. Setting dies by touching the shell plate and "doing anything else" is just not the right way to do it.

I shoot a 35 at 1.125 lead. Sent 10 dummy rounds and barrel to KKM. They throated and shipped it back... No charge.m great barrel and company.

Ok…my questions is that given a lot of lead bullets come larger than the advertised 0.401". And that no telling what mfg of bullet one will ultimately be using, what is the diameter of the throating reamer that is common for our sport? In other words, what diameter do I want the throat area so that generally speaking any "quality" lead bullet (Bayou, Bear Creek, Blue, etc) will not be hitting the barrel (lands, grooves, or throated area)? Is 0.402" enough? 0.403"? More?

I know I can call Manson, and I will. but what diameter you all use for .401 lead bullets?

I would like to purchase a 40 cal throating reamer to set up the freebore for .401 lead bullets. Does anyone have a reamer print or can share the information need to order one (Mfg, diameter, etc)?

Ya…me too

While Varget is the powder of choice for 308, 4895 should work equally well

jdphotoguy, yep…sounds like I'm out of luck. No worries. It was a out of town match, so I'm not likely to help out. Just generally speaking, it seems like a good idea that all scores posted had a history log attached. If nothing else, keep people honest and make the stat process transparent. Nothing disparaging intended for all of those who work hard to make matches happen….

Poppa Bear, Useful information while at the match with scoring device in hand. I am currently trying to determine if, from home after the match, one can see the scoring log (i.e editing history). You know....looking at the scores on the net,and something just doesn't look right compared to your observations at the match. Surely, just some sort of error...maybe my observation was just distorted...a hot day in the sun. So, my question is can someone: 1-no device in hand 2-no connection with the stat department 3-not a match official 4- just Joe Schmo See the editing history online.

Jester121, 1-not sure...just a competitor trying to see a match log 2- again...not sure, but I doubt it. From just a philosophical point, can just some "Joe Schmo" competitor look at score logs, or is that just a match administrator function. Would be, as they say in Washington, "transparent" if that was the case.