Loves2Shoot

You can't stack virginia count and weakhand or stong hand are about only the only time stacking would make sense. I don't stack on general principle, it just sit well with me, but that's just me.

link died

video see this baby in action here

I'm recently convinced F/O is from the devil. I've found black on black for me is much better for me (BE is once again correct.) This becomes very evident at partial target 13+ yards. In a lot of lighting conditions you can't see around the optic because of it's brightness. If I had to use it again, green is much better for me than red.

First, muscles have no memory I sure wish they did. Second, It is hard to overgrip the gun with the strong hand if you take the strong hand thumb out of the equation. I've gone as far as taping a small thumb tack to shooters weak hand so they feel it if they grip down with the strong hand. Have her visually veryify that she isn't sqeezing down with her strong hand thumb (no white in the knuckle.) Third, grip tape might be very helpful for her, even if she only puts it on the weakhand side. Glocks can be hard to hold with no grip enhancement. Good luck

There is no question, hardchrome the baby

Do a search on vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, this might be a good time for using it.

The rounds deal isn't that big of a deal. The softer shooting doesn't matter much when you reach a certain point. The big deal is partials and the chances you take when you drop points. Yea, I can shoot minor a bit faster, but minor mistakes cost you a lot more when you are dropping all those point. So your style of shooting has to change. If it really worked well, some big dog (not Burkett) would be doing it regularly, not just on a lark.

Muscles don't have a memory Rely on your eyes. When you are "following" your sights it is harder to stop them on the center of the target. Don't over complicate things. Use your eyes to find the target, don't be afraid to let go of the sights, once you get your form down correctly they will appear like magic on the spot you want to shoot.

Sounds like your trying is getting your way of doing. The best thing you can do to go faster is to relax and let your eyes tell your finger when to pull the trigger. You might try shooting at nothing, just pulling the trigger when the front sight hits the rear notch. .2 spilts are plenty fast enough to make limited Master.

TDean, You didn't look like the kind of guy who would take money from fools But then again you never know when lightning will strike.

A double tap is the devil's way of keeping shooter from learning how to shoot. I use a variety of sizes of targets from full size IPSC targets to 1" square pieces of tape. You need to learn to which sight picture you need to use for different shots so mixing it up can be a good thing. Trigger prep is a big key for dry fire, do a search

If you have a no shoot in front of a table and you hit a target that has a ton of hits on it several yards downrange you have no clue what to score. This happened recently. Muliple string stages suck in my opinion, they are so time consuming. Just add reloads or make the time to move to the next area part of the stage and be done with the multiple string BS (rant over)

I shoot the fastest on field courses when I try not to plant my feet ever. I used to run to a spot shoot and stop, unless I have to I try not to do that. You have to slow down the shooting part a smidge, but you can gain a lot of space while moving and shooting acurately. The trick to shooting on the move is to move very slowly and shoot A's. It is not easy, but that is one place you can use less time in many field courses. If you think of flowing through a course you tend to get in and out of shooting positions faster, atleast I do anyways

The stuff you mark lines on the ground with rocks for painting poppers. I used it for the first time this weekend and it takes about 2 seconds to repaint the popper. Cheap paint sucks, thanks for the tip about Rustoleum, I'm looking for some good stuff to paint some art I'm making for the house.

How do you figure that? I would think a Caspian with all the extra heavy parts, Light slide, and a light recoil master would be much softer, just make sure you have a high ride safety . Heck my SVI with a KKM tungsten barrel is softer than a Glock 20, you throw Grams tungsten magwell on any S_I gun and it softens them up quite a bit. If you want to stay in open I think the .40 is a good choice. With 170mm mags you can still get enough rounds in it to be competitive, the brass is cheap too

Me three, I think it help me stay relaxed.

Shooting 1 second draws at 20 yards and shooting in B or even A class, something wrong with that picture. That is smokin'

After skipping a target this weekend, I'm making myself a checklist and laminating it and hooking it to my bag. #1 count all the targets. It cost me 10% of my match score. And it would have litterally cost me .5 seconds to shoot it because it was right in front of my face and I didn't even see it.

Don't shoot it to slide lock

ditto, I would save up the extra $$$ and get a decent used SVI. If you are married to that price, a Tangolio clone in .40 is about your only decent option. They are a good gun and a ton better than a Para.

I hate the over use of the word TACTICAL and anyone who claims they are.

Go for it, but remember, there are many times when the A zone is very hard to get, and that is where you will lose a lot of ground to those shooting major. Typically you will lose about 10%+ of your score if you shoot minor well. I don't think that I can shoot a minor load 10% faster than a major load.

Not un-common around here at all.

500 rounds = 25 minutes on a 1050 with a auto primer tube filler. I try to buy things 10K-20K at a time and the savings adds up over time.