Loves2Shoot

How far did your hat fly?

Send it to a real gunsmith.

You only have to spend as much as you want over about $500, but if you want a trick L10 gun (remember L10 and Limited only differ in mag capacity) so, might as get one you can play in different divisions in That way you can go where the challenges are. From the sounds of things you can even make a XD a $1K + gun.

"I generally try and remember to take the cigaette out of my mouth when dumping a charge in the scale. But if I get a flare up, no worries, I always have a beer near by to put it out. So, no.....I guess I'm not to worried about lead exposure."

Not a chance, I'm hoping that foo foo open gun makes you a little rusty

USPSA Rulebook THere is everything you need to know Quick overview: Production scores minor only (125PF) 10 Rounds Limit Special placement of holster and pouches Limited to these guns Approved guns No other provision for juniors.

Have had .13's with my .45, have had it full auto when I was learning to do triggers and it was ALOT faster

I'm only an M but I've had plently of .1-.11's with my open gun before I realized it was a silly thing to try to do, fast splits that is. I've heard enough guns "double" and they are a lot faster than a .1 split.

Buy a few things from BE and spread the word. Pay it forward.

I always feel that way when I get someone from the south on tech support. I wish they could speak english also

CLARIFCATION: The advise for a 3.5 pull wasn't for a "novice." It has nothing to do with being able to "handle" a light trigger. It is about trigger control. A heavier trigger pull is initially required so that you can feel the point where the trigger prep is taken up. Trigger awareness is very often over looked. If the trigger is "too light" you won't be able to take up the trigger without breaking shots when you don't want them to break. This can cause very bad habits. It helps to have the trigger heavy enough so that you can take up the trigger prep and stop before you activate the hammer. As you become more aware you can lighten this, but you should always be able to take up the prep without dropping the hammer. If you can not draw at speed and take up the trigger prep EVERY time without dropping the hammer (1911's), the trigger is set too light or you have no trigger awareness/control. You can get your M/GM card with a 3.5 trigger pull and you can break .13-14 splits (not that I advocate outshooting your sights, but I know you can) with a limited gun with that particular trigger set-up. If you don't prep your trigger or don't know what it is, I would highly look into it. There are WAY too many people who hurt their shooting by using triggers that are too light for there ability to control the trigger.

Gun cycles in about .05 I would love to see someone wait for the gun to cycle

I second the buy a widebody if you want to spend some $$$ You can play in two divisions, get a bushing barrel and you can play in IDPA also. If you want a single stack, get a custom made on a Caspian slide/frame with the integrated mag well.

Love mine, tungsten .40 cal., a one hole gun if I do my part.

If you need to ask, I would reccomend 3.5 to you. A clean breaking quality trigger is more important than a light trigger. As you become more sensetive to the trigger you can lower the pull weight.

Most people don't need to practice the hoser stuff. It may have a high fun factor, but the tedium of practicing precision at varying speeds is much more boring. It is also a much more honest measurement of skill, that can be depressing, but realize that ANYONE who is any good has experienced the exact same thing. I put a lot of pressure on myself because I want to. When shooting gets depressing I dump a couple mags full auto in the general direction of a few targets just for fun, imagining that maybe someday I could dump them that fast and hit all A's. If you lose hope, what do you have? If you ain't gettin' paid you'de better enjoy doing the work That my friend is up to you to figure out for you.

It doesn't matter to me, as long as I can prep when I'm "in the hole."

Not at all locked out, I bend them much more shooting open. It has to do with the distance of the sight off the bore more than anything else for me.

Ouch... ... but true...

Hmm, The first shot on a transition (paper) I just see the sights lined up on the target. They just appear on the focus point (sort of like magic.) On plate racks it is totaly different, like a bouncing ball on the words in an old movie.

They look cool too Beven talked me out of going to a strait stock and with his advise to not overgrip the grip it is work ing pretty well for me. I am loading strong and weekhand and the grip never get's in the way. I'm no guru with shotguns, but I like the shorter. lighter shotgun. Also it feels more like my AR so the practice has some transferance.

Almost free brass

I for one would give 2 s@#ts about the change. As far as capacity, if you can't find a decent spot to reload with 20 rounds in the gun the caliber of gun you shoot won't help you. Would I switch to 9mm, hell no, 38 super, maybe in about 100,000 rounds when my .40 barrel wears out , just change the breachface and get a new barrel

Ours just got "let go" yesterday

Ditto the buzzer sucks