shooting for M

Pull the mag release as Jay870 said, and check for wear. Or just replace it, they're just a few dollars. Try that first and let us know. ETA: While the mag release is out, check the frame for burrs or anything else that can interfere with proper function. Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

Shoot it one handed, and/or have someone else shoot it to verify you're not doing it. It could be as (not) simple as changing your grip. Other questions, which glock or more specifically which mag release? Factory, factory extended, aftermarket? Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

Shoot them all and see what you like the best and go with that. I prefer the M&P. The Glock though has the biggest aftermarket support and following. I had my first up close experience with a Springfield (XDs) this week. The fit and finish of the internals was better than any Smith or Glock I've ever taken apart. That said, if I carried a Glock at work, I'd probably transition completely to that platform, I just can't get used to the transition back and forth from the difference in grip angle. Leatham beats most of us with an XD, Sevigney does it with a Glock and Miculek does it with an M&P, oh and Max does it with a Sig. They all have advantages, but, beware don't be surprised when all your plastic fantastics have over $1k invested in each. Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

Have some more confidence in your shooting. Sounds like your hits are decent, call your shots and move on. It seems like you're either trying to score your target before you transition or are trying to get too much of a follow through. The star, well, we've all been there [emoji6]. Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

Just out of mere curiosity, what kind of accuracy are you guys getting out of frame mounted optics on the M&P? Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

Rumored there was an issue with the takedown lever/bar whatever it's called. The slides were coming off during dry fire. They all got recalled. That was months ago, haven't heard a peep since. This is all third hand information. Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

I use a rubber "o" ring on my pistol. I can't remember the exact part number but it was a 1/2" (1/2x28 threads) I tried locktite but it came loose after a couple hundred rounds, wouldnt work its way off but loose. About 1k since the o ring and no issues. Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

For HD you should have cowittnesed irons anyway Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

Your follow up question, how good is your index? If you have good muzzle awareness and can point well, it'll be there, if not it won't. True cowittnesed irons can help you find the dot easier and there are several options to have cowittnesed irons. Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

I recently had an opportunity to put the 2.5 MOA Delta point pro next to my RM07 (I should have gotten the 3.5 MOA dot). My next M&P is getting the Delta point pro. Bigger clearer glass and thinner housing give it a much better view and never having to remove it for battery changes makes it the clear winner for me. My only issue is its going to sit taller so it's probably going to need a .385"-.400" tall front sight to work with the DP pro rear so holster fitment can be an issue. If you're stuck on the RMR, there are set backs for all, so pick your poison. I opted for the adjustable, but I hear you can get the auto adjust to not auto adjust if you don't like it. The dual illuminated seems great, but I've used ACOGs and their earlier reflex sight and wasn't real impressed with the brightness at dark and other situations but it seems they have gotten much better since then. If you're using it for defence you should probably have cowittnessable BUIS with at least a tritium front so if the dot's not there or too dim in certain situations you still have sights making those few situations a smaller issue. Just my $0.02 P.S. I would get a regular 19 and have the slide cut or get a pre cut slide for your optic for carry purposes. But once you cut it your stuck with your choice of glass. Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

I have a similar issue but the standard fixed it. Just got a new one that seems to work for me. Its a Ghost forward slide release. Sets the button a bit farther forward. Worth a look Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Try a Burkett timing drill. It'll probably fix your issues. You're probably getting too much of a surprise shot. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

I've seen a few issues with those silver bases, I think it's a cheap aluminum. Not a ton, but I've seen them stick and have the extractor rip through the rim. Never seen that with a brass base. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

I use the paste to treat the BCG on my ARs. When I go to the range to do more shooting I usually add a couple drops of the liquid. I do the same to the slide of my carry gun now. Heat the metal a bit, apply the paste while warm, allow to dry and wipe it off. Makes everything in the BCG easier to clean and never had an issue even without the additional drops of liquid. I have started using it this winter on my competition guns as I have had issues with Slide Glide Light under 45 degrees. It's not cheap but it seems to work well as a lube and cleaner. Smells like wintergreen toothpaste so I can clean guns inside again. I heat the metal in a toaster oven for about 10 minutes at about 175 degrees.

When I was running the steel match here I would do 2 sanctioned and two from a huge list of stages I found on a link from here. We now have 5 bays and the guy that took over for me has been doing 2 or 3 sanctioned and the rest from that same list. The 8 satges are a pretty good mix, but I never want to shoot the same thing every month. With 5 stages I try to run at least 2 "fast" stages and at least two "accuracy" stages. I did do a "fast" match once and got lots of good feedback though, hardest target was a 12" plate at about 15 yards and used all of the 18X24s I had. Listen to the guys that shoot at your club, if they want to try something different, try it. One issue you will have is your steel running 8 stages, if you bought a kit. If you have extra of everything it won't really be an issue.

I have seen about the same with the hedge blasters that I have seen, hit or miss. Buy an airsoft or a .22 deticated upper and out the utg and sight mark on there. Put a jp free float and an aimpoint on it if it runs, that will make a decent shtf rifle and double as a decent 3c gun starter rifle. My $.02

You can actually buy the blue crystal stuff online. READ THE REVIEWS: Blue Crystal Look at the "frequently bought together" 2X2" 2 mil clear plastic baggies!

I just got the safari land als for my new 5" pro. Sticks out the bottom a bit but dawson sights still fit. Very secure and still fast.

Lea County action shooters in Hobbs, NM does a WWP 3gun match every year. Good group of guys.

I have tek-loks on the caddies that I use. For this very reason I take them off after I am done with a stage and put them back on when I am in the hole. Everything else stays in place for the match though.

I will throw another vote at starting on the 550 unless you have someone with a 1050 close by to help you. Cheaper start and easier to learn with. When you are ready swap to the 1050. Depending on how much you shoot and reload it wil most likely only be a few months. Then you can sell the 550 to pay for the conversions our just a couple of your powder measures and keep both presses.

Loading problems probably stem from hitting the bolt release before racking. Double feed every time. Keep it clean wet and fluffed and buffed should run fine.

I have a piece of 45 brass on mine. It seems to make the primers feed better.

Well, got mine, so one more. I bert they will either be there or close by the end of this month.

If you want a truly dedicated 22, look at the S&W. If you want a standard reciever, look at spikes or tac sol. I think Accuracy Speaks make an upper as well. For the lower, it looks like a decent list, you may want to take a look at the Ergo stock, I just got one and love it.