MemphisMechanic

Lim Pro 9mm. Then Stock II.

Sharpened my Dillon, never had a problem afterward. I currently run a Lee with the hardened aftermarket pin (an awesome addition) untouched, without issues. I destroyed a few of the Lee pins with 22 cases stuck down in 9mm ones in my 650.

If you didn't have an EGD firing pin spring (likely also missing coils) then most guys were cutting coils off of the Wolff one before the Patriot firing-pin spring came out.

That's easy. EVERYTHING smokes less than titegroup under a coated bullet. N320 is the most expensive but cleanest Other options I personally have used and liked: Clays (147 only) Solo 1000 WST Nobel Sport Prima V Ramshot Comp (wide velocity swings, practice only for me)

Oh. Really... I had heard the random bitch about them here and there. I might need to buy a few and test-drive them.

@B_RAD I will at least run a sleeve of them and see if they're any harder than standard CCIs. From what I'm hearing, they aren't. If that's the case then I'll keep them.

It does. Ultrafast powders like Clays and N310 are awesomely soft. However, you don't actually shoot any faster. It won't help your scores versus a safer powder.

It's soft. It's also ... a bit sketchy.

Hah! I'm still running regular CCIs. I haven't even switched to the magnum primers yet.

Were the Wolff springs wildly inconsistent, like their recoil springs?

I don't want to make a habit of handling the gun without strong downward pressure, riding the safeties.

Video time! Cock the hammer. Use electrical tape tensioned so that the hammer drops a millimeter or so toward the half-cock notch when you dryfire the gun. Enjoy a longer (but still short) SA trigger pull. I like the fact that it's longer; I would rather come off the face of the trigger in live fire than fail to reset it. That's my current problem. I'm a triggerfreezing monster at high speed when tension creeps in.

"Skeert"

That's not unusual. As mentioned here: http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/244615 The Tanfo is unusual. Most guns have a frame opening that is straight all the way down it, and the correct size to retain the magazine. Glock. M&P. SIG. etc. Those guns reload the way your used to. But the Tanfo is different... The inside of the frame is a cavern compared to the magazine. Stick your finger in there and feel right where the bottom of the grip panel is. There's a lip around the bottom of the inside, there. Both sides. Front and rear, too. Past that, its 1/4" wider and deeper. What holds the magazine in place in the frame is the magazine catch, contact at the top, and that ridge around the bottom. If you insert a magazine at an angle, the tip of it will insert past that point, then the body will get jammed in that choke point. Now that I pointed it out, it'll be obvious. I carved most of it out of my gun. She reloads like a boss, now. But there's (GASP!) nothing but bare chewed-up metal to be seen on the bottom of my gun. So you've gotta get over the cosmetics.

Yes you can file on either the magwell or the grip. Yes, it will remove the finish anywhere you do so. But leaving it alone and hammering mags into it is going to screw the finish up anyway. I've never seen a competition pistol owned by someone higher than C-class that wasn't beat to hell from 'reload rash.' Hand file. Dremel with a sanding drum on it. Pick your poison.

When was the last time you saw Major 9 ammo fail to drop a popper from a center hit with an Open gun? While that's an exaggeration of 9mm's power, the production guns you're referring to lie also. They're running with poofpoof ammo. That's not what we carry for defense. Even the new guy shooting white box or UMC is shooting a light target 115gr load, so he's not a good indicator either. Run some hot 127 or 147 grain ammo through your gun (147gr Speer Gold Dot was roughly 150PF through my fullsize Glock) and tell me if the performance gap between 9 and 40 doesn't narrow slightly.

This... works amazingly well. Peel the electrical tape off when you're done. Where you position the hammer affects how far the trigger wiggles when you "dryfire" single action shooting.

If an NRA type asked, I would frame my answer differently. But you talking about gun people asking about USPSA. That has not happened to me. I'm always asked by coworkers or friends who own a gun, who like shooting it, but aren't gun people. Their knowledge of the NRA ends at Charlton Heston. Hence my answer.

I've never had someone ask who would have heard of actual NRA Action Pistol. Confusing the two has never remotely been an issue. Especially since the NRA matches are all but dead, and feature no actual Action. You're not the first USPSA guy to point out my borrowed term. I'm simply following the KISS principle. And its largely irrelevant: Usually you get to rapidly follow up with a match video off of your phone, and that's what really gets them to bite.

"Why were there seven DQs out of 21 shooters, Bob?! What happened?"

"Action pistol. We shoot scenarios. You're in a room with targets through windows & around corners, or around cars on the move. Things like that." Almost verbatim version of what I say. "Practical pistol" sounds about as fast and exciting as a book club.

Multiple online retailers have one in 9mm. Bud's likely does too, but Ben's shop or Patriot Defense are the first places I'd look. Then find yourself an FFL locally and pick it up for $30 or so. Done.

This time next year you'll be able to think about what you're doing and what order to do things in, while your subconscious does the shooting. Much like driving a car: you're about to get much better than you ever thought you would.

This. My ammo has a standard deviation of less than 10 every time I chrono it. It's good for bagged-in groups of 1.5" at 25yd out of my Tanfoglio. It also varies in OAL as much as Rowdyb's. I see absolutely no reason to chase a reduction in OAL *unless* you take the gun to the range and you can't hit the broad side of a barn. Only two things matter in handgun ammo: consistent velocities so that your ammo stays legal, and it's accuracy.

When you write "should I speed up" there's a presumption there. That it refers to shooting faster. Yes, you should speed up. But not the shooting. Speed up everything else. 1. Listen to how long it takes the best shooters to transition from target to target. There are times it takes you nearly a second when it should be more like 0.3 sec. Target transitions are huge time wasters for new shooters. 2. In production you can't be too fast on reloads. This is my own current weak link. The faster you can feed the gun a new mag, the faster you will run from A to B during the load. A double win. 3. Plan for more efficient use of time. On the left, draw to the wide open paper. Your draw time is over 2 seconds to the plate and you still Mike it in run 2. Instead draw to the easy target next door and get the gun out like your hands are on fire. When you get better it won't matter much if you draw to popper or paper, so an A or M will shoot it from L to R starting on steel. This is a case where you should experiment with NOT emulating the better shooters. In the second array - consider taking the steel first. Then you can check off one static paper while the swinger is hidden, instead of waiting without shooting anything for two full seconds for it to come back. Hit factor is points per second: minimize downtime, so avoid spending any time without shooting that you don't absolutely have to. Find a plan that lets you shoot something instead of waiting on a swinger.