MemphisMechanic

Unlikely. That’s my guess. They’d have to make one for each model they cut, and for each optic in that model. Then people are going to whine if the finish doesn’t match. Why go through all that work if the gun is still illegal to shoot in Production when you’re done? (Which it is)

And then I sold mine and began shooting a Q5 Match with a bone stock trigger, and my classification % hasn’t dropped. Hmm. Might be a reason for that. Which is why, while I disagree with the rules adjustments, I also know they won’t change anything in the standings. You can’t beat training with parts.

Funny. To a man, the Production GMs I know or have taken a class from? They’re the ones with the closest guns to stock. You guys are over here fretting about this gun being competitive with that gun, doing the math on if “Apex Trigger + M&P = 97% of a Shadow 2 at 25 yards” The winners are at the range practicing with close-to-stock, well-beaten guns. I voted against liking the wider rule set, but he who practices the most, wins. Pretty much the end of it. This won’t change anything.

Pics, man!! If you don’t know how to post them, I’ll PM you my email address.

G34 > M&P 9L > Tanfoglio Stock 3 > Q5 Match ...Over the course of 10 years. 3 years with Glock then 5 with the M&P. I don’t switch guns that often, and plan to shoot the Walther for years to come.

You don’t want a Q5 or a Canik if you have really large hands. I wear a large size glove, and very much fill the relatively short Q5 grip completely. I like it, because the contour of the grip forces a very high grip even if I accidentally grip a bit low on the draw? It practically shoves my hand upward. With a hand even larger? The gun would be a serious challenge.

The Stock 2 has... a cone-fit barrel. As it slides forward the cone locks into the matching taper in the slide and this gives it tighter & more consistent lockup than anything else in Production. Accu-shadow included. Traditional straight-wall barreled guns don’t get tighter as the slide runs forward, and thus they are much tighter when locked back. Short version: find some ammo your gun likes and go shoot groups with it. It’s fine. You’ll see.

Swap the button to the other side. The benefit to the Q5s ergos for a lefty is that it I feel zero need to shift my grip in order to work the slide stop or mag release. They aren’t the slightest bit of stretch for my thumb to reach.

Cerakote is a cheaper option that’s still 10 times tougher than blued. My M&P finally lost the cerakote on themuzzle corners after 5 years of dryfire. Stock 3 in cerakote;

Ben’s Fundamentals class was a hard push for the (very solid) Production M in the class with me. Fundamentals does not equate to “for beginners” in any way. As I’ve said before: I went as a high B-class who couldn’t chip his way in A. Someone who thought he was largely doing everything right. I left as a guy who realized huge deficiencies in trigger control and grip, and saw himself throwing away 3/4 second entering every position. Flaws. Everywhere. Making A was easy after that, with a little bit of practice a few times a week.

I bought a blued gun because I’m as lazy as you... but also like cerakoting things to make them unique, before the lack of cleaning sets in. Plus no one had a clue what the hell my silver Stock 3 actually was.

I guess you didn’t read the rest of the thread.

Good to know. I won’t bother to hunt for it, then. I still have two 8lb jugs of the fast batch of old-school Solo 100, too. I‘m not quite sure why I refuse to open them, and keep buying other powders.

I have 7lbs of the good early batch left, too. I think it’s that same one. Out of 11lbs initially. When it’s gone I will likely switch rather than risk hitting the batch no one liked quite as much. Honestly I really liked the old Clays behind a 124, and may try International Clays or SP.

Thanks. Suspicion confirmed. I only ask because PV varies a lot from lot to lot. Sport Pistol I hope will be titegroup-like consistent.

Don’t mess with the pretravel in an M&P using production legal trigger and trigger bar. Do you know what you’re doing with the pretravel in the stock gun? That’s where the striker block (or firing pin safety) is deactivated. The more you reduce your pretravel the less margin for error you have between safety deactivation and the striker getting sent forward. I’ve worked on two M&Ps which were completely NOT safe to have dropped (they’d have gone off if hit the wrong way) because of this idiocy. It doesn’t make your trigger pull lighter. It doesn’t make you shoot faster. It doesn’t anything useful to delete the pretravel. Dryfire with the gun often. Until taking the trigger back to the wall the instant you touch it is a habit.

It also gets your weak hand on the grip sooner, as your hands are closer together when initial contact with the gun is made.

www.benstoegerproshop.com also has really nice laser-cut ones at a reasonable price. I resisted spending money on dryfire targets for a long time... but they never really wear out, so I’m glad I spent a few bucks on those eventually. http://benstoegerproshop.com/accessories/targets/ Stick some clear packing tape to the back of the targets, then stick a loop of blue painter’s tape to that, and you’ll never hurt the cardboard peeling them off the wall

Mr Bullet Feeder. End. Much, much quieter than Hornday’s and the most reliable bullet flipping system that just plain works. Setup is crazy simple: just follow the youtube videos. Done.

@ddc how do you think it compares to Prima V in terms of cleanliness and recoil and accuracy?

Keep the measure topped off with the old bottle until you run out. Then begin toppjng it off with the new bottle. I’ve done this with Prima V, Titegroup, Solo1000, and clays. Without issue at all. Solo and Prima V are known to vary widely from lot to lot. I casually dump new powder on top of old because I buy in bulk within one lot number. With them, I’d empty the hopper back into the old bottle when it got low. Swap 100% new powder into the hopper and go chrono some ammo. If I get the same results, then I’ll casually mix the two batches to get rid of the old stuff. If chrono results vary noticeably, then it’s time to work up a new load and treat them like entirely different powders. With sport pistol, based on everything I’ve heard about its consistency and stabilty? I would have casually dumped new powder in with old without any hesitation, if I were in your shoes.

How many rounds did you chronograph? When I consistently hit a SD of 6 or 7 with Prima V over a 15-20 shot sample size, I knew I had a keeper.

You need a heavier hammer spring to pop S&B primers reliably. In my opinion. Honestly, just put an EGD Medium hammer spring in the gun if you shoot in IPSC and not USPSA. It’s 100% legal and the gun will eat anything. A 7lb DA pull isn’t hard to manage if you practice with your relaible gun instead of spending weeks messing with an unreliable one.

My photoshop skills on this smartphone are impeccable:

Someone just got his tax refund...