Lee G

How did you crack the slide? Anyway, contact Stuart Wong at CZ Custom (480) 969-1311 https://czcustom.com/ If anyone can help you find one it's him.

That doesn't work for everyone. I'm left eye dominant because of amblyopia. At it's best I have 20/70 vision in my right eye and 20/10 in my left eye. I learned to shoot left handed when I was a teenager and they younger you learn the better. As far as quad loading goes you just have to do it. Don't try to go fast until you're proficient with the motion. I quad load left and right handed. It just takes practice.

Thanks, that's the one I was looking for.

I have the 10 coils spring and follower kit for my TSO .40. When shooting dry the follower gets stripped out by the slide, binding the magazine in the gun. I remember seeing a way to tune the magazine to prevent this, but can't find it now. Can anyone point me in the right direction? thanks

1. The sear was the only real modification I did. I did lightly polish the trigger bar, but I didn't change any angles on it. 2. It does nothing to change the weight of the trigger. It just changes the point where the trigger resets allowing you to remove more pre travel. You will have to adjust the over travel screw because the sear will probably lift a hair later. My TSO measures right at 1.5# on my lyman trigger gauge. It's the lightest trigger I have so I'm not going to change the weight.

Anytime, everybody starts somewhere.

Right, you're missing the ejector springs that go in the back of the ejector. You're confusing it with the extractor that is in the slide itself.

https://czcustom.com/ejector-spring-ts.html

A sear only costs about $12 and I have some extra available so I gave it a shot. Bottom line is it made a huge difference and the reset is so dead on I got paranoid and added about 1/32" of pre travel just to make myself feel better. what the video is trying to tell you is the surface of the trigger bar and sear leg aren't mated well. bot are fairly rough and the angles are a bit wrong. So basically if you have the sear leg and trigger bar faces parallel and still rough the bar has to move until it doesn't contact the sear leg in order for it to pop up and reset. It basically hangs on the edge of the sear until the last minute. So it looks like this, ||. If you put a relief cut on the sear leg and make the faces flat and smooth you kind of make a very slight chamfer that allows the trigger bar to rise sooner and stay in contact with the sear leg. So it looks like this /|. Of course this is an exaggerate angle to illustrate the point. Basically you want about 1 degree for each. Think of it like a mag well. In his video he says to put a relief cut on the trigger bar leg too, but I don't think it's necessary. YMMV. The challenge is making the slight adjustment to the angle without going to far or messing it up. You can probably do it by just applying more pressure to the bottom of the leg with the stone, but it's such a small surface and the body of the sear gets in the way that it's cumbersome. I tried it this way at first and the results weren't great. I happen to have a power custom series I jig with a 1911 adapter. I put the sear on it and rotated the adapter until I had the right angle and cut it again. Using the jig I was able to be really precise. This time the difference was dramatic. It worked so well I did the same to my SAO shadow that I use for IDPA ESP. Both have almost no pre travel. And really it's just my own paranoia that led me to keep just a hair of pretravel in place.

DAA Alpha X. Just make sure you get the right insert. Use the czechmate insert for the thick trigger guard and the TSO insert for the thin.

Maybe I don't understand what you are asking, but the disconnector is supposed to slip off the trigger bar in DA mode. Are you having a timing problem where it releases early causing the hammer to catch the sear with the halfcock hooks?

It was the ejector wire. Thanks all.

I just converted my 650 from .45ACP to .40S&W. I can't get it to completely push the brass into the shell plate. The camming pin is adjusted correctly, but it's like the case insert slide doesn't have enough spring tension to make it all the way forward. I've lubed the locator and it helped a little, but not enough to go all the way. Do I just need to replace the spring?

https://uspsa.org/documents/minutes/20180209 17b Change Log App D4.pdf

I agree, it fixed a problem that didn't exist.