Sniperboy

As I feared... the internals are now similar to the 42/43 type - scaled up.

Good to know.. I always wondered if the lightened Ti strikers had real merit but never had the opportunity to objectively test it long term. I have an LS Ti too. Thanks for sharing your data.

As what has already been said, consider ditching the 6lb trigger return spring for the stock one. I understand that there may also be a possibility of the slide going out of battery with a very light striker spring and strong trigger return spring? -I get it, we've all been there... whether you know it or not, you're likely very interested in a lightened striker and already made the subconscious decision to try it. Advice: if you run with one of those, do NOT run a stock striker spring, you will likely break it. Between all of us in our club, we have broken every striker out there, except the IDP. -I personally have not done exhaustive testing to believe that a lightened striker makes a difference in relieving light strikes. Maybe I will get back to that project after the season ends. -You have probably already made the decision to run the lightest striker spring available. No foul in that, my suggestion is if you buy the Zev 2lb, then do yourself a favour and buy the Wolff 4lb & 4.5lb. also to save shipping. It would suck to pay shipping when you realize that you (most likely) get light strikes which is likely with Wolff ammo. -If you buy the 2lb Zev spring, and really want to use it, you will likely need some sort of extended striker, like the Zev. Sample set is only 1 shooter in my club who went this route and had to buy it to solve his light strike problems. HOWEVER he was not using Wolff ammo so I cannot predict what will happen in your case. Or just gradually go up in spring weights until you are satisfied with reliability.

What a bombshell! I think its a bit too early (or too late) for April fools! : ) All the same, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and Tanfo experience with the world. It helped me a lot, and I do very much appreciate your service.

Let me know what he says, I am curious. I had the same problem with my kit but I was going to replace the "-" connector anyways so there was no love lost.

So in this case it was the connector. Good to know and glad you got that squared away : )

Huh. I was almost certain the case would be closed, at least with #2. You can try changing the connector or just bending the LW connector out a bit to see if it still happens. Perhaps you are just so fast your mind thinks you are doubling but you really aren't? ; ) All the same do let us know what ends up fixing the problems so I can put the fix in my toolbox.

1. Try changing the connector. I changed the LW with a Glock "-". 2. When using the Vanek, loop the trigger return spring on the "bottom hole" on the trigger bar, not the top hole. This will give you more surface engagement on the striker and top of cruciform (at the expense of a very slightly heavier pull). I have had experiences with doubling and both #1 and #2 fix worked on separate occasions. Just last night I fixed a Vanek that was going a bit out of control with method #2. It's a start.

Send it to Mark Housel. Affordable, quick and nice guy. Between me and the other guys in my range we have probably sent close to a dozen slides to him. He has done 2 for me. Very quick and simple no frills... like his website. https://www.landmprecisiongunworks.com/ If it matters I believe he was one of the very first guys who was doing this work when this got popular. Experience counts. I trust him implicitly. He is there to do the work, not sell you on a fancy pretty slide to make you a ninja, or pimp. : )

Happy Birthday. I hope you get a bunch of neat treats, and thank you for everything you have shared with us.

Are you getting light strikes in DA from this short stroking? I don't blame you though - it would annoy me crap out of me eventhough conventional knowledge would say don't worry about it. Gleaning from a previous poster here with bolo woes - your Tanflango is not a SMALL FRAME by chance is it?

Not sure I understand. When you violently rack your slide a couple of times does it reset? Or do you get a dead trigger? Can you clarify what you mean by "does not release the striker"? As an aside. A warning - if you put in a STOCK Gen 4 housing in a DK trigger that has pre-travel reduction capability. You have now deactivated your drop safety. DK provides a modified housing with his full kits. May just be simpler to just contact DK.

Are you going to share the solution (or perhaps reveal the cause of your issue) or keep us in suspense? : )

After all this discussion I tried experimenting with my 550... Over the long weekend, try this... 1. Screw down your 550 shellplate as low and tight as possible while still being able to advance the "ninja star". This will ensure that the shellplate holds your brass down without slop when you prime. 2. Cut a piece of cardboard, I used the sleeve from a winchester primer tray into the shape and size of the primer seating punch. Super glue it on the punch/piston. You will find that that the 550 is designed in a way that the loaded primer without the mod is already flush with the primer cup. With the mod the primer will be sticking up above flush and you will not be able to advance the star unless you are actively loading rounds - ie. you cannot spin the star without activating the handle. If this does not make sense to you now, fret not, you will find out what I mean soon... This problem does not impact you when you are actually loading. Ghetto - sure it is, but cheaper than buying 1050. I did not think welding up the punch would work but I tried the concept and it may work after all. I am not sure about the longevity of this experiment, but I loaded up 100 rounds. Without the mod I measured .005-.006" of seating depth. With the mod I can go down to .008-.010" If I push up and "prime" the handle twice, while turning the brass 90 degrees I can almost be certain that I can make the .010" or more. As per SoCalShooter69 I do believe that the seating depth is in part determined by the headstamp (tolenrances of primer pocket) of the brass so do not be frustrated if you cannot get .010" depth every time.

Oh right! Re: the FPB, you have an Exterme, thanks for clearing that up. Good luck on your match and thanks for your updates. What kind of trigger return spring you got? I am not sure what TRS the Xtreme uses but the Stock one seems to improve the tactile reset. Perplexing and really gets me scratching my head too. It's not like you went from a 15lb spring to a 10lb spring overnight. Heck, maybe the Titan hammer is different enough from the Delta that it simply caused an interference on how the FPB activates?

Is that the extended firing pin block or the OEM firing pin block & firing pin? Glad to hear your last run was reliable and you were able to shake off some of that bad juju. Did you tweak your ammo like SoCalShooter69 suggested? From your experimentation do you have a better idea of what could be causing your issues from when you installed the Titan & Bolo?

Did you revert back to your stock hammer and disco - then using this problem ammo, try again? May help narrow down your possibility so you don't chase yourself in circles? You did mention that you reverted back but did not mention if you tested it again with live fire.

You use a 1050 right? I am going to tell my therapist I need a 1050. It will stop the voices in my head : ) I have played with a buddy's 1050 and man it is fast.

10lb??! yagottabekiddinme-gimmeafrigginbreak wow! I sort my brass too.. but that is to remove questionable & crappy crimped primer pocket brass and to remove 380 and 38 super that gets mixed in. I thought I was OCD. You are at a another level sir.

I agree on the choice of primer to a certain point... if Winchesters are available and you can get them to work reliably, no need to bother with CCI. (That is unless you bought 50k CCI as an election hedge bet?) However if I had a 15.5lb hammer spring I would certainly demand that the Tanfo ignite everything, on principle of the matter, even memphismechanic's ammo. With a 14lb or a 13lb I would compromise and settle for it not lighting up CCI, but be 100% on Winchester. If I can get it to run anything with a 12lb spring like johnbu I'd about get down on my hands and knees. I really feel for you chaserracer. I am in the same place as you right now, but with a 14lb hammer spring. Still about 10% fail. Which is annoyign considering how hard it is to get a Tanfo in Kalifornia. Please keep posting on your progress. I have a love hate relationship with my Stock 2, but hopefully we can both get it running to our satisfaction. I put mine down for a while but will eventually pick it up again, maybe during a long weekend.

I got a kick out of this thread. Back in the day the first thing Glock owners did was buy finger groove grip wraps for their Gen 2 Glocks. Now it is en vogue to dremel off Gen 3 finger grooves. Then, people felt the need to replace cheap plastic parts with steel parts just cause... How to lighten a Tanflango to make weight... use plastic guide rod. Brilliant yet so easily overlooked when you're caught up in a fad : )

Thanks John. Looking forward to the video MM as usual.

Just to be sure, is this the "Canik pin" everyone is talking about to replace the trigger pin for the Stock 2? https://cajungunworks.com/product/30600-floating-trigger-pin/ Thanks for your patience : )

That seems right. Just changing to a 1 piece sear 'should' not necessitate changing the FPB.

Pull back the hammer to single action then without depressing the trigger try to push the back of the firing pin with a punch. You should not be able to push it in. Then with your thumb on the hammer pull the trigger slowly and try to push the pin down concurrently through its travel, holding the hammer back. It should only release when the trigger is pulled a certain distance.. at least this is how I checked it. If you are bored, prove to yourself that everything is in order by putting all your stock parts back and repeat and compare the results of your exercise.