Sniperboy

Thanks for the recommendations : )

Did Dawson ever have adjustable rear sights for the CZ SP-01? Just got an SP-01 and sad that DP does not make an Adj. rear for it, since the Adj. rears are standard equipment for me - yep even on a Glock 26 that is pretty ludicrous and a great icebreaker at ranges. Did this beast once roam the Earth and get discontinued or did it never exist?

I would add that for my instance I did not need an extended firing pin block (FPB) when I had the 1-pc sear, stock hammer and stock firing pin in the pistol. When I installed my PDO firing pin, my FPB no longer worked and I now need an extended one.

Only speaking from my experience... you can install the 1-pc sear now without needing to fit the safety. Once you drop in the Titan you will need to fit your safety. I would install the Bolo concurrent with the Titan.

My condolences. If I were in your shoes I would be in a corner crying by now. ..after I threw the pistol (unloaded) against the wall. Admittedly I have wanted to do that on more than one occasion. Have you considered drilling a new hole/divot? At least for the new set screw to lock into. Might salvage what last bit of dignity you have after all the pain and effort you went through. : O

Been there. Use a butane torch and directly heat the set screw. Don't force anything because once you strip the screw head then you will have no choice but to take a drill to hog it out carefully.

Not sure if you are in the USA or not (since you mention IPSC) but you may want to call Henning. I have emailed them many times but have never got a response, however, they are always very nice on the phone and return calls. Don't want that frustration to stew in your mind any more than it needs to : )

Any sight will work to be honest. Its like asking what shoes do I need to win a ball game I compete with my Glock 26 and use the Dawson adjustables plain black rear and front. It looks weird but they've performed really well. My full size Glocks use The same. The only thing I advise is that since the sight radius is shorter you may want to choose a front sight a bit thinner than what you are used to in your full size pistol.

Mine looks like your revision A at this time. : ) but since you were going to do it with sheet metal I simply suggested you put it in the inside. Basically take your revision A picture, elongate it then put it inside your cup. No need to tape it to the outside. Think of it like an insert. I have since moved on from that project as I think I am realizing that my problem (and I suspect a lot of other people's problem) is that my decapper pin is decapping brass with such force it either misses the clamshell bucket or bounces out of it (not an issue of the clamshell staying locked open - if only I can get a dollar for every time I read "change the pivot pin" ). I either have to fabricate a new clamshell bucket or tape "wings on it" to extend as I have done now. I have my decapping pin seated very low, since the last few years I have been picking up brass that is hard to decap for some reason. Adjusting the decapper upwards to relieve pressure does not work since it will sometimes not deprime used brass. Talking to myself about this just now, I am wondering if I need to try a new decapping pin or perhaps it has something to do with my 550 Case feeder setup which is when this mess started to begin with I think...

Sorry for gravedigging, but a suggestion for you - if you make it out of sheet metal, just design in to be placed inside the cup. You make it long enough it should be a friction fit and you won't have to worry about taping it to the outside. Done something similar to my own 550.

I am in the same boat as you right about now, I would recommend a 1 piece sear also. It not only lightens the pull significantly due to eliminating an extra spring, I found that it makes your SA trigger pull crisper too. The 2 piece sear gave me a bit of creep in SA with the stock hammer. The 1 piece sear compared to the two piece sear using the same PDO sear spring reduced the DA by almost a pound. There seems to be conflicting anecdotes but for my Stock 2 the xtreme 1 piece sear did not facilitate a need to refit the safety using the stock hammer. If I recall correctly my stock firing pin block also remained functional.

Mine does not do it either. I actually tried pulling up on the rear of the slide by hand and it would not budge. I could not even induce it even if I purposely tried. FYI I have a 2014 dated Stock 2.

Leave it to NSFW Ryan to always brighten my day!

So this trigger creep is happening and causing the current mass pandemonium to both the stock hammer also? Talk about confusing.

Did you recently put in the extended FPB? In my experience you do not need the extended FPB if you are running a stock hammer.

Y'all are like ARE demons possessed! I love it. Thanks for taking the time to share pics and showing how its done. I can totally see a totally niche market and license to print money for machinists who can offer this service. Kind of like Grams and his barrel reaming service!

OH WOW!!!! Thank you so much for the in depth review Candice. Those grips look absolutely fantastic! I called Henning about them and I was told that they were "nickel plated with a gold...ish hue" but despite my prodding Henning's shop would not confirm the color. (is it gold. or is it not?) Looking at the video it is just like what I had at my minds eye, and not camera tricks. I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Speaking of gorgeous, your video is gorgeous too! It touched on all the added value modifications candidly and thoroughly without any "down time or extra fluff", it was a pleasure to watch without any boring or slow spots at all. Keep it up : ) I enjoyed it thoroughly. My only complaint is that I liked the look of those silver slide lock and thumb safety controls - and now I think I have to get some for my Stock 2.

Do please share that video when you get it done : ) I'm dying over here.

I so want those gold grips for my stock 2. : ) thanks for posting.

If factory ammo drops in and your reloads do not, may I suggest putting your reloads in a case gauge of your preference before doing the plunk test. In my experience it is not always the OAL that is the criminal. Just a suggestion. My Stock 2 is dated June 2014. It will plunk test up to 1.155" OAL of 147 truncated cone. However rounds would stick if it sticks in a case gauge to begin with. If a round passes the case gauge it will always plunk in my barrel given it is under the max stated OAL. Drove me insane before I figured it out for my application.

Ridiculous! People will pay you money to perform live, Ryan!

You guys are obscene. I hate you guys! : O You can probably see the phone if he moves the focus point to the left I can see Ryan's sleeve. Just make sure you're wearing pants... or not...

Good call Ryan. Once again something I overlooked and didn't even think of. haiedras & DOODS today did mention the rust on the top of my plunger head which was caused no doubt from days upon days on my bench dry while my Stock2 was apart. I've since doused my Tanflango in lube. Ah, I remember this feeling, from long long time ago. Old friend, you have come to visit me once again! Happy New Year everyone.

I used to be a 1911 snob for a very long time when I started with firearms. I haven't really shot them in near a decade. I also don't lube or clean my Glock, purely for sport (I only do it 3 times a year) I sometimes forget how. Thanks guys for sticking with my madness. In other news... BOLO dropped in - no incident. Extended firing pin block dropped in - no incident. Fit one piece sear to safety, successfully - no incident. As a public service since I had no idea what tool to use when I first did research I used what I believe to be a diamond wheel (tube) on the dremel to grind then finished off with a rubber polishing cylinder... I think anyways. Using a side to side motion under the sear. The diamond tool was the same tool ARy used (except ARy used a cone shape) to chamfer the bottom of the plunger head). The small diameter matched the bottom of the sear quite well. https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/7123-diamond-wheel-point https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/461-rubber-polishing-cylinder-point I am now with a 5.5lb to 6.5lb DA (with the occasional strange 3lb 13oz DA) + 3.25lb SA which was my original goal. If this can light up Win primers I will be satisfied. Gad dang it! ...and Snipey lived happily ever after. (until the next crisis that is )

John I did try to isolate all the parts replacing only one by one and even removing certain parts like the sear, hammer one by one to test. None seemed to bind. I did however meet up with haiedras & DOODS - what a great bunch of folks : ) thank you again for your time. Thanks for your insight highhope. DOODS also commented his concern about my polished runaway. That polished surface was caused by the STOCK disconnector. Using a trick DOODS showed me we placed a piece of thin wax paper in between the frame and stock disconnector. It pinched the paper and we were not able to pull it out. Confirming contact. I placed the BOLO with Titan hammer in my pistol just now and performed the same trick. As ARy mentioned the Bolo barely touches the frame and the wax paper could be pulled out even when the BOLO barely ran on the frame. Anyways long story short both haiedras & DOODS gave me some tips on areas to study. The kicker is ofcourse - remember that analogy I made with Microsoft Word and dumb I.T. questions? Haiedras simply looked at my pistol real hard, as in Grade School Principal hard, put lube on the rear of the trigger bar and put it back together. When I brought it home the DA pulls are around 6.5lbs (the Titan and BOLO gave me some wild range from 5lbs-6.5lbs) for both stock and TITAN hammers and 3-3.5lbs SA. Looks like problem solved and I feel like a nincompoop. Haven't shot anything but Glocks in years so I never even thought of lube. To borrow a page from MM's book "Putting shit together bone dry, I now know why I am still single." Seems like the problem has gone away. (Insert dunce smiley here). I hope the gremlin stays away! I will leave you with one tip though I got from DOODS. In itself is worth ONE-MILLION-DOLLARS. Use a thick gauge hypodermic needle to manipulate the sear spring leg. See pic. It gives you move leverage and control AND has the added benefit of you NEVER FORGETTING to flip it to the side when putting it back together.