Sniperboy

Let me know when your new fancy bolt (you are introducing a new bolt design right?) and new fancy recoil system thingee goes live! Glad I waited but hate the more waiting. : )

Looks like the JP barrel is out. I am a big JP fan as anyone else, but I think I am going to get a Taccom ULW upper when the new Taccom shortstroke bolt and recoil system prototype is ironed out : ) I was ready to order but glad I waited for the new Taccom goodies... but the wait is killing me. https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPSM9-5.5UL10

Looks like I got this resolved. Goes to show that when you're digging yourself out of a hole, it helps for someone else to tell you to stop being a dumbass. Tried some Ranger 180 SXTs = 1.25" (prolly .5" without one flyer). I also loaded up some 180 FMJ with the same 4.9gr N320 = 1.5" group. Loaded more 180 Extremes just because I like being an idiot (only difference from the formula above is the bullet).. yep.. better but still a 5" group. I don't get the wide discrepancy but at this point its irrelevant. Thanks to those who chimed in. When you're in the thick of things you sometimes forget the basics of troubleshooting. Total rookie mistake.

Makes sense on quality bullets and factory loaded option. 4.9gr N320 under 180-gr Extreme. 1.125"-1.130" OAL. EDITED once again, it was old EXTREME bullets I used, not rainier. I used some long forgotten Extreme coated 180gr under my bench that I thought I would never use (never thought I would try 40) and are prolly 15 years old.

Edited my past posts that there is no 4" group after all. For any solace at least the pistol is consistent : ) For what its worth, my powder throws were individually measured from a recently calibrated RCBS electronic powder trickler, and all measured within 1.125"-1.130" OAL. I will confirm crimp. Thanks for the feedback - this is what I was looking for. I will ask some friends to load some 40 for me and get some factory ammo to get a second opinion.

I don't have much experience in 40 and don't own a 40 Glock, but I wished I brought another pistol as a control. I edited my original post that my groups from a rest were from 10 yards (not 25). 4" was a one time thing, my other groups were at 7". Reading between the lines, good call, I certainly don't want to sound like I am expecting 2" groups at 25 yards. Editing to add that there is no 4" group. (kind of like there is no such thing as a free lunch :) ) Found a flyer and a double, they were all 7"+.

This is my first TS in 40 (and really first time loading 40). Prior to this I haven't really shot many of them so I do not have a frame of reference. I have not been satisfied with its performance and today tried to group it from a wooden rest. I don't think I am a bad shot and from the rest I am getting 4" at best and 7.5" (this was typical) at worst with 10 to 15 shot groups at 10 yards. (Factory test target was 2.5" at 25 meters.) Load is 180gr FP rainier Extreme coated over 4.9gr N320 (1.125" OAL) at major power factor. (I tried titegroup major which fared poorly - prolly the same 7" group - which is why I tried N320.) In my informal testing from a previous date it seems like the pistol likes 155gr FMJ going at 145PF. I did not take measurements but it seems to have a tighter group. But I do not want to rely on a minor load. I switched to N320 because I bummed some extreme 180s with N320 loads from a friend and it seemed to like it. When I loaded my own duplicating his formula I was not satisfied. In my old age I am not sweating it to be honest - its not the end of the world. It wasn't a $3k gun, but my Glocks can do better. Is this grouping from the TS40 normal? Not sure I want to spend $60 to send it back to the factory on my dime when I don't know what CZ customer service is like. They'll likely send it back with no work as typical. Seems silly to pay $60 for a CGW bushing if that is not the issue? (I measured the stock bushing. .550" diameter barrel vs .560" ID stock bushing that does not show signs of wear. The pistol was used but seemed like it was not fired much if at all. What do you guys think? am I missing anything? In the meantime I am going to ask my pal if I can bum some more loads from him and shoot his loads from a rest. I tell ya, if I wasn't such a good sport this would drive me more and more to drinking ; )

So I got myself an old skool SVI 2011 in 45 from the late 90s. It was my dream gun back when I was a youngin'. I would have laughed at you hard if you went back in time and told me .45 would fall out of favour. Anyways, my interests have changed and instead of taking a big loss trying to sell the whole gun, I am thinking of rechambering this SVI in .40 to dabble in limited. Anyways my question: This SVI has adjustable MMC sights I tried, but pretty hard to search for info on this now, but can anyone confirm if these sights are a NOVAK dovetail cut? Thinking ahead and slow walking this project. : ) I suppose I could simply remove the sights and try to test fit a set of novaks, but I don't have any spare novak sights handy and I am not sure how to measure the dovetail?? Thanks.. and please be gentle to this old goat : )

Thanks for the tip. It was driving me mad with curiosity. I was hoping to put a picatinny rail on it so i can mount one of these on it... SHATTERED DREAMS

Heh.. you learn something new every day. I'll have to try that trick on the 1050 Akro bin. On a perhaps unrelated note.. this discussion made me read the shockbottle faq.. What are the " 1/4-28 accessory mounting holes " that are present on the black hundos for exactly?

May I ask, why do you remove the overtravel screw? I don't particularly rely on them, but am curious as to the logic behind it.

I use the Hornady collet puller. One of the best things I bought next to a vibratory primer tube filler : ) can't believe I went so long with out those two wonderful things. It will grip onto xtreme coated bullets. It will leave a mark but I don't worry about it and reuse the bullets anyways. I repurposed a cheap ass old Lee single stage press I had in my trash heap, so I am happy about that too.

Just to close the loop on this for posterity's sake. WIth the long weekend I tore down the SP-01 again. Realized that my CGW hammer and CGW disco nose/beak was rubbing on the frame (Gotta love not cleaning the gun and the parts leaving tracks). I finally built up the courage to sand it down just half a hair and I now got 6.5lb DA and 2.75lb SA. DA ignition does not seem affected. OK thank goodness, this has been keeping me up nights - I am happy now and can put this dog to rest.

Just got a tactical sport and looking for alternatives too.. thanks for starting the thread. Surprised that Mec Gar doesn't make them, they make Tanfo large frame mags after all. What's the consensus for basepads for limited division?

Man were you tying jugs of water to a string to your trigger?? ; ) Good to hear you got that gremlin knocked loose from the machine, and quickly. That would have been annoying if it persisted. Your new numbers look great!

I have to say that is the lowest I have ever heard a DA pull can be - low 3s?! Wow... are you sure that is not just an 8.5 lb hammer spring cut in HALF?!? ; ) Now that is just cruel. "Light polishing", those are fantastic numbers especially with an 11.5 lb spring.

The location on the trigger shoe and the angle you pull the trigger gauge back does have an impact on the trigger pull weight. Getting lower on the shoe and angling the gauge downwards instead of pulling straight back does give an illusion of a lighter break. Just be consistent. There is definitely a practical side of just dealing with the pull, but there is enjoyment to be had in tinkering which is a hobby in itself. I think you can enjoy both just as long as you don't let chasing numbers really get you down, or get you trapped in analysis paralysis : ).

Do the lifter springs under the trigger affect DA pull?

If you are bored and have a few beers you want to put away on a lazy Sunday afternoon, try temporarily replacing your CGW hammer with your stock hammer (you can use your old disco as well - for this purpose I kept my old hammer, disco and strut in together). (I know hammering out the hammer strut is a pain in the ass if you did not buy a spare strut)... I've tried this myself but I am curious as to what your results are. My DA pull went down when I played musical chairs and temporarily put my OEM hammer back... so I just accepted it. I would accept a super crisp SA for maybe a heavier DA.

Evan, did L&M do those slide cuts/windows for you too? Mark Housel is the O.G. for slide milling and is the bomb : )

Which hammer are you using? CGW, CZC or the OEM?

Had the same annoyance with my SP-01. I get 7+ lbs DA with an 11.5lb mainspring, when everyone else seems to get 6.5lbs and less. It may be just the luck of the draw. By the way that is a SWEET hammer strut you got there. How did you polish it and get it so rounded?

If you want to be technical, I think the locking block, slide lock leaf spring are specific to the sub compacts.

You just need a longer lever, sir (see PDF). : ) Science!!

A very novel solution. I think you're right Polymer.