Joe D

Tok, how does it compare to the RIA Tactical you bought?

Pharaoh, seems like my friend gets either 15 or 16 rounds in his G21 mag. Starting a stage with 16-17 in the gun is not that bad. Thinking back on the IPSC match I shot Saturday I don't recall a single stage that having 15 round mags would have hurt. There was always a place to reload while moving from one group of targets to another. There was one stage where I was able to shoot most of the targets before having to move. That's only the second time in years that being able to start with 22 rounds in my G35 made a little difference.

Benny, I suspect it is more of a recoil issue with a 1911 than with a 9mm Glock. A G17 costs me $389 vs $489 for a G34. At the typical IDPA distances it is pretty much a toss. I have a G17 that I have shot a few matches with. Did not notice much difference. I actually did a test a couple of months ago with a G17 vs G34 vs G35. All were loaded to a 128-134 PF. Set up a simple stage and shot it numerous times with each gun. Tossed out the best and worst time with each gun. When I added up the times and points down with each gun I found the scores to be virtually identical.

That's correct Merlin. I wonder how many rounds have been through the gun. I thought I was the only one that got up this early.

70,000 rounds! You mean to tell me those dreaded MIM parts have not turned to powder. I get a chuckle when I hear folks say the first thing they MUST do is replace all the MIM parts in their new gun. I like the Eclipse looks. I would probably buy one if they did not come with the dumb night sights. Night sights are worse than useless on a competition gun. I wish Kimber would make them an option rather than standard.

It all depends on how the barrel was fitted as to which link was used. A Wilson #3 is .278". That is the "standard" link size.

I had a G21 for a while and liked it. It was extremely accurate. It fed 200 gr. LSWC flawlessly. Stock barrel never showed the slightest bit of leading. The G21 is very versatile. Can be shot in SSP, ESP and CDP. Works well in Production and Limited 10. I know a guy the shoots one in Limited as well. Seems like he can get 16 rounds in his mags with an extension. Down load it to a 135 PF and it feels like a .22.

I would not get either one. I have found that the plain Kimber Custom guns are more than accurate enough. I have had very good results with the Custom Stainless Target models. Stock trigger pulls are totally irrelevant. Any good gunsmith can provide you with a crisp 3.0 lb trigger pull for $50-$75. None of my Kimbers grouped OVER 1 1/2" at 25 yds. I have had eight of them over the years. My current CST will put 10 rounds well inside a 2" Shoot-N-C at 25 yds. OTOH my $400 RIA Tactical does this at 20 yds. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...ost&id=6971

Just trying to help.

I can't wait to see how my G36 Tactical shoots.

If they are going to charge you over $175-$200 then I would just get another frame. One question though. How thick are your slide rails? Hope you did not take too much off the bottom of the slide. At some point you are better off to just cut your loses and chalk it up to experience.

Eric, I had a SA 9mm for a while. I never did like the way it recoiled. I also went through a series of springs and bullet weights. IMO you will be better off putting a .40 barrel in your Kimber. You can get the same number of rounds in the gun to start - 10+1. The recoil cycle is much better with the .40, feeding is more reliable and bigger holes.

Hmmm, never had a problem pinching slide rails. Probably done 20-30 in my lifetime. A lot depends on how much you need to pinch. About the most I have had to pinch was .005"-.007". I suspect what happened was the slide would not start on the frame and metal was removed in the wrong place. That old saying of measure twice, cut once is always true.

I have been down the U die and FCD die path in .40. I use neither now. First of all the dreaded Glock bulge is a non-event. What I have found is the regular Lee carbide sizing die works just as well as the U die. The FCD can cause problems if you shoot lead bullets. It was reducing the diameter of my lead .40 bullets to the point where I started getting lead in my barrel. Removed the FCD and the problem went away. I use a seating die in the 3rd position and a taper crimp die in the 4th. I have loaded thousands of rounds with this set up. A simple way to reduce sizing effort is to add a little NuFinish car wax to your tumbling media. It also cuts down the dusting. I don't cull any brass. If it is on the ground I use it. The problem with FC brass is the military primer crimp. It can be used if your "paper clip" spring is set just right. Buy brass???? That stuff is free for the picking up. Once fired .40 brass runs about $20 per thousand.

I suspect your gunsmith had been sipping too much Koolaid. My old G35 had over 100,000 rounds of mostly plated bullets through it. Was just as accurate the day I traded it as the day I bought it. I find Berrys bullets to be very accurate in all my Glocks and 1911s.

A Glock will not hold you back on your way to Master. "Glock Knuckle" is easily cured with a Dremel and a Cratex tip. You really don't have to remove much material to make the problem go away. My Glock mags will hold a reloadable 20 rounds. I can get 21+1 to start. I have to chuckle when I see all this money being spent just to get one more round in a STI/SVI mag. I can think of maybe one or two stages in the last five years where I needed 20 rounds in a mag. Here's a wild thought. Limit all mags to 20 rounds. 9mm, .40 or .45ACP. Allow 9mm to make Major in Limited. It would be a lot easier without comps and ports. Now instead of a .40 parade you would see lots of different platforms. Heck a .45 with 20 rounds might be a pretty fun gun in Limited. Of course you would have to do away with the length restriction to make a .45 hold 20.

It should be done with a good machinist vise that has parallel jaws. Tighten the jaws then hit the one that closes with a hammer. Protect the slide with a couple of pieces of real thin plastic. Watch the area with cocking serrations. Real easy to damage this area. Brownells has a "vise" just for this. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/pro...861&s=25667

John, did you get my PM?

Chris that is not a bonus. That is YOUR money the the Government got to use for free. You would be far better off giving the Government less money each pay check and investing.

Glocks don't have thumb safeties. What few 1911s I have left have a pretty slim single safety.

This one is hard to beat. http://www.pistolpacking.com/httpdocs/vest...ges/Comp3.shtml

It is pretty easy to make one. I made just the frame work. No top and bottom. None of my guns will ever have a thickness problem.

It all depends on how the stage description was written. If the window had a description like P2 and you were told to shoot target whatever from P2 then you should get a Procedural. If you were told to just shoot target whatever through the window and you shot the target, using cover, as you approached the window then no Procedural. If the stage was set up where you could see the target through the window after engaging another target then you should shoot the target as you are exposed to the threat. Proper target placement makes that problem go away. I tend to set up my IDPA stages with choices. I usually will have more than one way to shoot the stage. That will sometimes make the IDPA purists cringe but that's to bad.

A lot depends on your feed ramp. The STI Trojan ramp is not correct. The Kimber is pretty darn close. My Kimber .40 fed flawlessly from Wilson 8 rd .45 mags., CMC .45 mags and Metalform 10 mm mags. I loaded my rounds to 1.200". It fed fine with a shorter length, but I had a really good load for the longer length.

That is correct. You will have to go through a dealer.