Dillon Case Lube

[Ben-WSU]

Hello everyone. This is my first post on this forum. This site is great with lots of information. I can spend hours…

Anyway, I just tried some Dillon Case Lube on a bunch of 223 brass. Wow, it is great. I can’t believe so little (one or two sprays) goes so far. My old RCBS case lube pad is probably going into storage now.

Anyone here have any experience with the Dillon Case Lube?

How do you guys get it off?

I was going to use a vibratory case cleaner. Any problems with doing that on loaded ammo?

Thanks,

Ben

[Hammar]

Hello everyone. This is my first post on this forum. This site is great with lots of information. I can spend hours…

Anyway, I just tried some Dillon Case Lube on a bunch of 223 brass. Wow, it is great. I can’t believe so little (one or two sprays) goes so far. My old RCBS case lube pad is probably going into storage now.

Anyone here have any experience with the Dillon Case Lube?

How do you guys get it off?

I was going to use a vibratory case cleaner. Any problems with doing that on loaded ammo?

Thanks,

Ben

I use the dillon lube as well and always put my newly loaded ammo in the cleaner. Cleans them up great and haven't had one go off yet.

Edited December 30, 2009 by Hammar

[redwoods]

After depriming, sizing, and trimming, it goes back into the corn cob or walnut media inside the vibratory case cleaner to take it off.

Randy

[Quigley]

I tumble my loaded rounds for about 10 minutes...comes off pretty easy.

[Pat Miles]

As much as I love my Dillon equipment and I have a lot of it, I won't use their case lube. Biggest problem for me was gumming up dies and powder sticking to the powder funnel. One Shot works very well and doesn't gum up the works.

My $.02,

Pat

[Intel6]

I use Dillon lube to size cases and then throw them in the cleaner. The only other way I could say to do it is to put some 92% alcohol in a spray bottle and spray them down in a towel and agitate them to wipe off the lube? The Dillon lube is cut with alcohol which evaporates and leaves the lanolin so adding back in the alcohol should flush it off.

Neal in AZ

[lugnut]

I recently started tumbling my loaded rounds as well for 10-15 minutes to get the lube off. I didn't realize this was so common.

[wide45]

As much as I love my Dillon equipment and I have a lot of it, I won't use their case lube. Biggest problem for me was gumming up dies and powder sticking to the powder funnel. One Shot works very well and doesn't gum up the works.

My $.02,

Pat

One shot does not work for rifle cases. They will get stuck.

[kevin c]

A couple spritzes of rubbing alcohol on on old towel, dump on a couple hundred rounds, another spritz onto the cases directly, a quick rubdown and dump into a convenient container, and there ya go...

eta: Welcome to the forums!

Edited December 30, 2009 by kevin c

[benos]

Another trick for tumbling lube off is to add one capful of (brand name) Prepsol or equivalent to the media. Takes all the lube off real quick.

Prepsol is sold at auto body paint supply stores. If they don't carry Presol they can sell you a different brand that will do the same job.

It's the last thing a auto painter will wipe the body down with before priming or painting. Once it evaporates there's no trace of anything left.

be

[gm iprod]

One shot does not work for rifle cases. They will get stuck.

+1000

I get one jammed die a month in the shop. 95% of them are Hornady one shot on rifle dies.

If I remove the Dillon lube after loading I just drop handfuls of the rounds into a towel and rub them around. The towel is then snuck into the washing basket and after that it comes back to the cupboard mysteriously cleaned.

[High Lord Gomer]

I'm more concerned about the case lube on the inside of the case, as the powder seems to stick to it, implying that it may "soak" into some of the powder. That's why I run them back through the vibrating cleaner with clean, dry corn cobb media prior to the second pass through the 550.

[freakshow10mm]

HOS sucks big time for rifle brass. I only use it on pistol to make loading smooth (I'm a commercial reloader).

Dillon lube is for rifle and works well. Tumble the ammo in a mix of 1:8 walnut to corncob with a cap of NuFinish and mineral spirits. Shines like new money.

Believe it or not, this is a remanufactured .380 ACP load. I apologize for the camera reflection in the bullet, but it's that damn shiny.

Edited January 5, 2010 by freakshow10mm

[RiggerJJ]

I'm more concerned about the case lube on the inside of the case, as the powder seems to stick to it, implying that it may "soak" into some of the powder. That's why I run them back through the vibrating cleaner with clean, dry corn cobb media prior to the second pass through the 550.

spray the lube into a bowl or plastic bag, THEN add the brass and shake. the lube will not get into the inside of the brass. tumbling the brass (or loaded round in the case of pistol) removes it just fine.

Dillon lube is the lube to use for rifle brass, been using it for quite a while with no (knock on wood) stuck cases. I used to spray it directly onto pistol brass in a bowl and then shake it, had no problems with supposed "powder contanimation", but now I just spray it into the bowl and then add the brass...keeps the bell die from getting all gunked up, etc...

jj

[GSPBirdDog]

As much as I love my Dillon equipment and I have a lot of it, I won't use their case lube. Biggest problem for me was gumming up dies and powder sticking to the powder funnel. One Shot works very well and doesn't gum up the works.

My $.02,

Pat

This is my first post on the forum as well....so hello from Indiana I am a long time lister first time caller! lol

I use one shot as well with no problems...but i did notice some build up on my casefeed plate... I have never used the dillon caselube but i have some on order... I load on a 650 and have a 1200 trimmer for the hard labor I tumble my loaded rounds for about 10 min or so.... Guys on AR15.com frown on it by saying it disturbs the powder but the thought of it probably just disturbs them....

[SCV]

Is the Dillon lube as good as the Hornady One Shot?

[benos]

Is the Dillon lube as good as the Hornady One Shot?

In lots of posts... the general vibe seems to be One Shot for pistol and Dillon lube for rifle.

be

[HI5-O]

HOS sucks big time for rifle brass. I only use it on pistol to make loading smooth (I'm a commercial reloader).

Dillon lube is for rifle and works well. Tumble the ammo in a mix of 1:8 walnut to corncob with a cap of NuFinish and mineral spirits. Shines like new money.

Believe it or not, this is a remanufactured .380 ACP load. I apologize for the camera reflection in the bullet, but it's that damn shiny.

Mineral spirits the same as paint thinner?

[anm2_man]

I have that problem also. After about 2k rounds, I'll remove the tool head and use break cleaner followed by a rag to clean the dies. Works great !

As much as I love my Dillon equipment and I have a lot of it, I won't use their case lube. Biggest problem for me was gumming up dies and powder sticking to the powder funnel. One Shot works very well and doesn't gum up the works.

My $.02,

Pat

[Wildkow]

Mineral spirits the same as paint thinner? <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="unsure.gif" />

Sorta, from another site I found with Google. . .

Although the terms are often used synonomously, there is a slight difference between "paint thinner" (a very general term) and mineral spirits. Mineral Spirits are often times referred to as odorless, clean or pure and, generally speaking, are a cleaner, more refined version of paint thinner.

While an inexpensive paint thinner may be OK for cleaning tools, paint manufacturers will always recommend their product be thinned (if necessary) with 100% pure Mineral Spirits or a unique blend of solvents of their own manufacture.

In the late 70's and early 80's, when the pricing of all petro-chemical products was extremely volatile, some manufacturers & distributors decided to offer less expensive, utility grade paint thinners that were made of either reclaimed or poorly refined solvents. These products may feel more oily than mineral spirits and have a much stronger odor to them. Again, while these products were OK for clean-up, the consumer had no idea what contaminants may be introduced to a gallon of paint if this were used to thin with...Thus the manufacturers now calling for 100% pure Mineral Spirits....

Mineral Spirits is a relatively weak and slow drying solvent distilled (obviously) from petroleum. 100% pure Mineral Spirits means that all traces of Mineral Oil have been distilled from the solvent (or actually, the solvent from the oil)...

Odorless (which almost all MIneral Spirits are today) means that harsher, stronger and more aromatic solvents - such as Benzene (not to be confused with Benzine), Toluol (or Toluene) & Xylol (or Xylene), have been chemically extracted from the solvent leaving only the mild, slow drying form of thinner today.

Be careful when using Lacquer Thinners (again, a very general term)...Theoretically, they should dissolve foam brushes. While the blend of solvents that form lacquer thinners (generally a blend of toluene, acetone and alcohol), may be of greater strength and dry faster than mineral spirits, these solvents can do strange things to your gray matter both through inhalation and absorbtion through the skin. Also, because of it's strength, never use lacquer thinner to thin any product that recommends only Paint thinner, Mineral Spirits or Naptha - the effect on the resin's ability to perform will be greatly diminished.?

Either should do just fine mix about 3 parts NuFinish to 1 part MS/PT or thereabouts if IIRC. They look really good as shown above and they are slickery than regular boolits may even feed better in your semi-auto.

Wildkow

Edited January 25, 2010 by Wildkow

[Graham Smith]

I'll just add a little from my first go at .223 . I'm resizing as a first (separate) step on a single stage press and used the Hornady One-Shot, and was not overly impressed. It always worked good for 9mm and .40 but I think I'm going to try the Dillon for the next batch.

After sizing, swaging, trimming, deburring, champfer, etc, I put the cases in the tumbler for an hour and found that there was still a residue on about half the cases. Put them back in for another hour and they were better, but still not great. Dumped them all in a bucket with some Simple Green and that did the job. Rinsed and left to dry in a warm place overnight. Look great now.

FWIW, cleaning the brass like this after sizing but before loading, there is no need to lube again so no problem with gumming up other dies or ending up with loaded ammo that needs to be cleaned. Of course, if you are sizing and trimming then loading on a 650 or 1050, this does not apply to you.

It's a learning process. I was going to order a Thumler tumbler so I could wash cases until I saw the details on the new Hornady sonic cleaner - may have to rethink that idea.

[craigulator]

I soak batches of cleaned/sized brass in denatured alcohol to remove the DCL, then i spread them out on a towel to dry.

[justinbaker]

As much as I love my Dillon equipment and I have a lot of it, I won't use their case lube. Biggest problem for me was gumming up dies and powder sticking to the powder funnel. One Shot works very well and doesn't gum up the works.

My $.02,

Pat

One shot does not work for rifle cases. They will get stuck.

you must be doing it wrong. i have used one shot for many years without a single stuck case.

i put a bunch of brass in a gallon ziplock baggie.

then you spray the one shot into the bag,

be very liberal with the spray

then close the bag and roll the brass around and you are good to go

[cardguy]

I bought a package of blue micro fiber cloths towels at Sams Warehouse and tried them on some rifle cases to wipe the lube off. Way better at getting it off than a regular towel or paper towel. Try one.

[DougCarden]

I use Dillon lube on all my ammo, rifle or pistol. When it is loaded, or trimmed (.223) I throw it in the tumbler with some Nufinish and a couple capfuls of laquer thinner. 10 minutes later all the lube is gone, the brass looks factory new, and it is slick. I tried Hornady one shot, and didn't like it at all.

It is easier on your arm and shoulder, and easier on the machine too. You also get a more consistent powder drop as well when the machine is smoother and not herky jerky.

Hope this is helpful,

DougC

Edited February 2, 2010 by DougCarden