flyingrhino

Check with Rick directly. He is in Arizona I believe. You won't have to pay the ridiculous shipping charges from out of the US if you buy from DoubleAlpha. Rick@mrbulletfeeder.biz

+1 on just long enough to get clean. Shiny doesn't make them shoot any better.

W231 is in stock at MidwayUsa. I just ordered 16 pounds. It's clean, ball powder. Meters VERY well. I used it for all my pistol loads until it became impossible to find.

Guess I saw this too late. I was all ready to drop $300 for one. Went to the site. $925 is too rich for my blood. Just wanted something for my own range pickups.

I'd just invest in a swageit for the 650, or a Dillon swager. I use the swageit ONLY when I pick up range brass. I run everything through the deprime/swage cycle. From then on I keep my own brass separate from any range pickup so I don't have to swage it. Just my method. I'm sure the 1050 is amazing. I just don't care for the cost of caliber conversions. I've had my 650 and 3 SDB's for going on 30 years. Gave 2 SDB's to my sons when they left. Still have the other one mounted next to my 650.

I have one and works as advertised. Only adjustment is to screw the sizing die in to touch the shell plate, adjust your powder throw and go to town.

I agree that you don't need a strong mount or the bullet tray. I ran 3 of these for about 15 years for competition shooting. I do like the case gage though. Yes, you can use a barrel but I like the case gage. Just make sure your work bench is sturdy. I screwed a piece of press board to mine. It really stiffened it.

Same here with MBF. I can watch the powder level now.

I have the AK, and 30 carbine. AK obviously is out of the picture. 30 carbine works fine for jacketed bullets only. I didn't like it for lead. I got the powder funnel from Mr. Bulletfeeder. It expands just a hair more so lead bullets don't shave or swage. It works the best IMHO. I am using an auto bullet feeder so this setup works best for me in 300 BO.

I started out with one of those Lee handloading kits for 357. The kind without a press that you use a mallet. Then got an RCBS single stage press. Then years later when I got into competitive shooting I ended up buying 4 Dillon presses. 3 SDB's and a 650. I gave my two sons each a SDB. The other is still mounted on my bench and is reserved for 460 Rowland and 45 LC. Everything else is done on the 650. The LEE is an excellent way to get started in reloading for a minimal investment. I've got several friends that use Lee progressives and they suit them just fine. For the price range you are stating you can be up and running with a Lee or Hornady setup. I am TRUE BLUE though. If you have the money you will never regret investing in a Dillon. It is a lifetime investment to be passed down for generations.

I'm using the Forster competition mic seating die. I also had Forster make me a custom seating stem for my Lee .312-155-2R that I size to .309 for my Blackout. Works really well.

I run 2 tool heads. I have one set up with the Lee universal decapping die. I have the Dillon but I bend too many of them so I went to the Lee. It is more forgiving. The decapping pin will slip before it will bend. I decap/swage my cases first (swageit). Then trim (RCBS case prep). Then clean (wet tumble). Lube cases lightly with Dillon case lube then reload.

that's what I do

Not the norm, I've got several Dillon sizing dies that have tens of thousands of rounds through them, 9mm might be have close to 100K thru it. ~g I agree it's not the norm. I should let it be known that I've been reloading with Dillon equipment for 30 years and this is the first die I've broken. I reload on the order of 1000 rounds per month. Before switching most of my calibers over to my 650 I reloaded everything on my SDB. I can't begin to guess how many 10's of thousands of rounds I've run through that.

I think you're right about using the kinetic puller. On a couple bullets there was a sort of scallop shaped scrape, and I was baffled at how it happened while seating, but now that makes sense, it probably happened when the bullet bounced back into the edge of the case. So far I've run through a couple batches now, and I'm confident that there is no, or very very little, shaving occuring. My most recent batch had some very good accuracy. These are the first coated bullets I've loaded (or fired), and at first I thought the smell was really bad, but now after a few range trips, I don't really notice it anymore. I think the first batch, using W231, was definitely smokier than the Titegroup I'm using now, which added to the "aroma" Shove a cotton ball in your bullet puller. It cushions the bullet when it comes out of the case and keeps it from bouncing around.

I just had a Dillon 45 ACP sizing die spit out the carbide insert ring. I had maybe in the area of 10,000 rounds through it, less than 2 years old. I sent them an email and picture and they sent me an RMA to send it back. So for the time being I had to pull a NIB Lee undersized die out of my spare parts drawer to keep me in business. I don't care for the undersized thing but I bought it on a whim long ago when I thought it might solve an issue I was having with a particular pistol.

I have. Using just a primer the lead bullet made it 3/4 of the way down the barrel. Tapped it out with a wooden dowel. If I were to do it again I'd put about a 1/2 grain of powder in it.

I run 124 powder coated just fine.

It is definitely a different feel but I like mine. I load so much at one time that the ball handle was making my fingers go numb from the pressure in the palm of my hand. The roller handle spreads the pressure out more. It does have a tendency to rotate after a while and I have to keep readjusting it. But....overall, I like it.

This probably doesn't apply to your issue, but I thought I would share.I load a lot of 45 ACP SWC. As we all know, different mfg have different profiles. So you would have to adjust your seating die every time you tried a different bullet shape. Uniquetek makes a specialized seating insert for Dillon dies that seats on the shoulder of the SWC rather than the point. So when you find that magic point where the SWC feeds and goes into battery every time, you don't have to adjust for different SWC profiles. Can be found here http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1561 Jim I got this for my Lee 200 SWC. IT WORKS REALLY WELL. My problem was the Dillon seating stem didnt hold the projectile perfectly straight so that they bulged the case slightly if not sitting square on the case mouth. This resulted in at least 10% failing the plunk test. I was loading these on my SDB without any issues. Problem started when i went to the 650 with the Dillon dies. Since changing to the Uniquetek stem this problem is gone.

Hornady dies just aren't made to accept the variance in bullet diameters. They are designed for the jacketed bullets. I gave up and bought the MBF dies. They feed everything I throw at them.

rick@mrbulletfeeder.biz Excellent customer service. He designed it, he built it. It's his baby and he will make sure you are happy with it.

It isn't really harder to adjust than the pistol ones, just has a couple more length options to accommodate longer projectiles. I've found the MBF dies to be extremely easy to adjust and they work extremely well with cast bullets. The instructions for setup and adjustment are easy to follow and Rick has videos on line too. If you have ANY issues at all he will take your phone call and walk you through it. Really nice guy.

I have one. Just swaged my first 1000 rounds. It works VERY well. Takes less force than the GS. I bought the GS a while back. Used it once. It sits in my spare parts box. Was not impressed at all with it. There is very little clearance between the plunger and the shell plate so if it wasn't aligned PERFECTLY it hit the shell plate putting a lot of stress on it. Also, there was no tactile feedback as there is with the Swageit. I feel comfortable using the Swageit. You can really feel what you are doing. Also, there is no alignment or misalignment problem. The way it is shaped it aligns perfectly. Don't have to remove the primer assembly, just the primer punch. I like it.

I'm no expert but I've done plenty of trigger jobs on 1911's. I've gotten mine down to the sub 2# range just to see if I could do it. For me that is just too touchy. All of my 1911's run right around 3 to 3.25 pounds. A proper trigger job starts with making sure the hammer hooks are proper height ( I use .020) and a perfect 90 degree face that is polished to a mirror finish. The sear should be properly stoned to a matching .020 and polished and the correct 45 degree relief stoned. That should remove all of the creep and make it break like glass. Polishing the trigger bow, disconnector surfaces, deburr the trigger channel. Now that 4# trigger will feel better than a 2.5# trigger that just had the springs tweaked. A small adjustment on the sear spring will get you down to the 3-3.25# range and it will be really sweet. I've never lightened main springs to get a trigger pull down. But to each his own. The nice thing about 1911's is that they are SO easy to tweak. But, be careful with too light of a trigger. Trigger bounce and hammer follow are a real thing and quite common when you get in the 2-3 pound range if all you do is lighten sear and main springs to get there. Those are just my observations.