sigsauerfan

do you use the same striker i for both slides? it is possible that for some reasons, the striker leg (the part of the striker engaging the cruciform tab of the trigger bar) sits lower in the dragonfly than in the oem slide...then,the leg doesn't emgage the tab of the cruciform consistently. the cure for this problem would be bending the tab in the UP direction so it engage the striker leg correctly. it's a matter of MICRONS. you don't want to really bend it more,just applying a moderate pressure to set it couple microns higher. ; ,it's a matter of couple microns ,NOT millimeters . all my limited glocks gets the zev ultimate trigger kit treatement,still,i work them a little more,and on some occasions,i went too far, with the same result as what you experience right now...and i used this trick i mentionned to correct the problem i created by reducing the striker-cruciform engagement seeking a lower trigger weight break.

a lighter striker spring is a chain«,s link when it comes to achieves a reduced trigger break weight... i always used lightened strikers in my game glocks ,and because of that ,as well as other mods, i'm getting a nice and clean 2.3lbs trigger break weight, which makes the guns easier to keep in the A in double taps mode. no problems with WSP's , but there's no shortage of FSP primers in my area,,and i use them for the games.....otherwise, i«,m loading winchester primers for my range ammo, and i rarely gets a light strikes if anything

i was thinking about suspenders for when i use my tac sports at the match....while it would stabilize the set up around my waist,and i would feel the weight much less,thinking about how i would look with suspenders kept me away from realizing the project lol....

i'm using it since couple years now.since i hold my gun very high,the tab was in the way,so i mounted the tab in reverse,and the problem went away. very nice piece,not too long and not too short.

+1...i now use my own casts coated with hi tek for all my practice sessions. i've shot close to 10K to this day,while i'm getting a very light leading on some occasions,i don't see how the gun would explode in my face....wether you use casts or J bullets, you still have to clean the barrel minimaly m from time to time to ensure a decent accuracy . i see some are reaching a point where the riflings are invisible because lead-powder residue got cooked repeatedly without cleaning..... some are anal like me about cleaning,some are squarely neglecting this crucial aspect . casts or jacketed ,if you never clean your gun ,at some point you might have to pay the price.

went from glock to my squadron of CZ tactical sports for uspsa.....went back to glocks for one reason,and it's the fact the CZ is way too heavy to carry around in the wait for my run. sure enough the cz is more accurate at distance, but my glocks are accurate enough for such game. if i was competing in steel chalenges,would try to find a way to make the ceezee less of a pain to carry around.

finally went with the ghost unit.best looking one,and the work required to fit the frame weight-thumbrest set up is very light work.

the toni 3D thumbrest isn't the best in the sens they did not expected people with short digits can't really reach the thumbrest confortably. what i did is i've bolted mine in the advanvced position which means it's now bolted with 3 screws instead of 4. the last screw close to the muzzle now serves nothing. toni should offer a longer thumbrest ,so it keep its 4 screws design intact.....but anyhow, i consider the toni sustem FW TR the best looking one.

....and LPA SPR adjustable are built like tanks. once locked ,they won't move ever. if ever you have some troubles locating those sights, in the usa, ipscstore estonia has them,as well a s the dawson adjustable series.

the cure to this is so simple. just lift the striker leg engaging the cruciform tab,only couple microns is sufficent.

been trapp in the same corner. got 2 inserts i had to send back because the fit was so lose....i ended up getting the sp01 insert,a little sanding,and it now lock solidly,no wobbling any more. problem is,there's no 2 identical trigger guard with the ts. some fit the checkmate insert,some don't.

he works with custom jigs that makes his work much more precise , ,and jigs prevent goin too far in reshaping and polishing parts. you must give it to the guy, he's dedicated to his work. the hard part is creating specific jigs for ''the feel'' you want to achieves. when he ask a customer what kind of feel he need ,like ''rolling break''' or ''break like a glass''' trigger feel, this has to see with '''reshaping''' some specific parts ,and it's exactly there jigs comes into play. you just don't take a dremel to reshape the trigger bar or the connector lip. you must exactly know where the work as to be done, it's always a matter of MICRONS .

a true 1911 served ala glock would be a good start.

for me it all went down to the less bulky one.it is the ghost. and i know that with the cr speed ,you must order the gun specific one.....not the universal unit you must add or remove the spacers to accomodate different trigger guard thickness .