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Smashing precious primers!


S&W627shooter

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When I reload 9mm using mixed headstamp range brass in my XL650, I have a problem with crushing primers in the pockets of some of the brass. Do some 9mm brass have crimped primer pockets? If so, is there a good way to make all the primer pockets uniform before I lose any more precious sm pistol primers?

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Yes. I have seen crimped primers in 9mm, although it has been a while. You could swage or ream your cases the same as if you're loading .223. Or you can inspect your brass before trying to load it & segregate any crimp primered brass you may find. I'm guessing that you may have a technique issue instead of crimped primers.

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Take a look at the station 2 indexing adjustment. The instructions call for .010" gap between the case and the indexing arm, this is so the case in this station can float laterally enough to get centered as the primer enters the pocket. It the case can't float, primers can get crushed. Also be gentle on that last 5% of upswing when the primer is seating, a little 'feel' at that step may get rid of the crushed primers altogether.

You don't sound very sure of whether or not you have crimped primers, if you don't know how to tell please stop running your press until you research how to tell the difference. You will have a loud bang at your reloading bench soon if you disregard this advice.

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Check for military headstamps and S+B. I load on a 550 and easily feel if there is any resistance when seating. Just jamming the handle and going for it is NOT the way to go. I don't presort my brass, if I come across a sticky seater I pull it out and throw it in a bin for secondary processing. If it's military I either swage it or ream it, and the S+B (once loaded) gets culled out to be left on the ground at lost brass matches. At least that way, I won't have to deal with it again and it will be someone else's headache.

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9mm brass is annoying enough that I hand-sort it before loading if it didn't come from my own practice sessions.

S&B, WCC, FC NT, CBC, and a few WIN is crimped or just screwed up a bit so that it won't prime properly a lot of the time.

That's just the fun of shooting 9mm. <_<

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I was told by someone who ought to know that Win farmed out some contracts to S&B, so some WIN brass is probably the tight pocket brass as well.....

However, if you are having problems with that many pieces of brass I would call Dillon to make sure you have the priming station properly aligned....been there done that.....

DougC

Edited by DougCarden
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Get a 1050 and your problem is solved.

Is this a serious comment? (I am new to reloading and just wanting to know more)

I believe he said that because a 1050 swages primer pockets as one of its steps, therefore eliminating the issue.

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Get a 1050 and your problem is solved.

Is this a serious comment? (I am new to reloading and just wanting to know more)

I believe he said that because a 1050 swages primer pockets as one of its steps, therefore eliminating the issue.

But for $1500 less you can order a pocket reamer from midway. Stick it in a drill and no more crimp. Works well for me. You need to learn headstamps. If in doubt ream em'.
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OK, so I looked on Dillon's and Midway's sites, and I found these two options:

Dillon's Super Swage 600 for $95 or the RCBS Pocket Primer Swager Combo Die for $27 (which I would put in my single stage press).

Does anyone have experience with either of these? Would either of these work well with 9mm?

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OK, so I looked on Dillon's and Midway's sites, and I found these two options:

Dillon's Super Swage 600 for $95 or the RCBS Pocket Primer Swager Combo Die for $27 (which I would put in my single stage press).

Does anyone have experience with either of these? Would either of these work well with 9mm?

I believe the Dillon is only for 223 or 308 brass, not sure if there is a way to make it work for pistol - thinking that some of the ingenious members here may have already. (of course I could be wrong about everything, and usually am - especially if you listen to the little woman).

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  • 3 weeks later...
OK, so I looked on Dillon's and Midway's sites, and I found these two options:

Dillon's Super Swage 600 for $95 or the RCBS Pocket Primer Swager Combo Die for $27 (which I would put in my single stage press).

Does anyone have experience with either of these? Would either of these work well with 9mm?

I believe the Dillon is only for 223 or 308 brass, not sure if there is a way to make it work for pistol - thinking that some of the ingenious members here may have already. (of course I could be wrong about everything, and usually am - especially if you listen to the little woman).

You can primer pocker swage in every caliber on a 1050.

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You can primer pocker swage in every caliber on a 1050.

I've never swaged primer pockets, only reamed them with a cutter. Does swaging also set the pocket depth consistently?

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OK, so I looked on Dillon's and Midway's sites, and I found these two options:

Dillon's Super Swage 600 for $95 or the RCBS Pocket Primer Swager Combo Die for $27 (which I would put in my single stage press).

Does anyone have experience with either of these? Would either of these work well with 9mm?

I believe the Dillon is only for 223 or 308 brass, not sure if there is a way to make it work for pistol - thinking that some of the ingenious members here may have already. (of course I could be wrong about everything, and usually am - especially if you listen to the little woman).

Super swage comes with rods to swage rifle and pistol rounds. I have swaged several milcrimp 9mm and 45ACP using the super swage.

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You can also get the swager right here: http://www.brianenos.com/store/dillon.bench.html#swage

What kind of primers are you using? I had this occur much more frequently using CCI. They seem to have a little outward flair at the top of the lip that catches the brass and turns sideways more often than others I have used.

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  • 3 weeks later...
OK, so I looked on Dillon's and Midway's sites, and I found these two options:

Dillon's Super Swage 600 for $95 or the RCBS Pocket Primer Swager Combo Die for $27 (which I would put in my single stage press).

Does anyone have experience with either of these? Would either of these work well with 9mm?

I used a Swager Die similiar to the RCBS setup and it didn't work well at all. I currently ream my primer pockets with a countersink bit in my hand drill, but if I wanted to swage them again I'd spend the money for the Dillon Super Swage.

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I'll add one other on 9mm brass.

I've noticed a *bunch* of brass colored brass, that you'd swear was really brass, when if you take a magnet to it, it's actually steel.

I went to harbor freight and got a handheld magnet and run it thru all my brass now when it's being processed.

Oh, and the super swager works just fine on mill brass. I made up adapters for .40, etc by finding various other rifle, pistol, etc cases that fit one into the other to make spacers for other calibers to take any play out of the differing dimensions between the various rods that Dillon give you and the pistol cases themselves. Works great.

Alan

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I sort brass and have had the problem with 9mm Federal spp mixing WCC and WIN brass. The older WCC brass gives me trouble 8/10. The primer pocket isn't bevelled as much as WIN does now. Zero problems with Win brass.

Edited by 1SOW
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