Dave Gundry Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 How are your clubs walls supported? We've traditionally used fence posts pounded into the ground, and just zip tied the wall posts (2x2's) to them. Works great, but fairly labor intensive to install and remove the posts. We've also tried 5 gal buckets filled with concrete with PVC pipes in them to hold the walls, but they seem to be either too heavy to carry around or not heavy enough for the high-wind days. Was chatting with someone today who was mentioning using rebar that just 'hooked' into the wall supports somehow, but didn't knwo the specifics - anyone know more about this? Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mainus Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 (edited) I had a bunch of metal bases built. They are 1/2 thick steel plate@12"X12". Welded to that is a piece of box channel that a 2x4 fits into. Throw the base on the ground stick a 2x4 in it and you are ready to go. we had holes punched in the plate so we could stake them down. The wall will stand by themselves without staking them down so set up is pretty easy. I will try to post a picture this week some time. We also have the rebar as well. We don't use them as often now that we have the metal bases, Tom Edited February 25, 2009 by Tom Mainus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFlowers Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 The trend here has been to build walls using PVC frames with tarps stretched across them. Easy to setup, easy to store. Holes drilled in the foot section allow them to be staked down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 2X2"X6' wood frame with snow fence stretched & stapled. Drill a couple 3/8" holes in the bottom for spikes and a pair 3' up the sides for support rails. Rails are 1" electrical conduit with the ends flatted at each end offset 90 degrees with 3/8" holes for a yard spike in the ground and a clevis pin for the side walls. Use 3" clevis pins for single walls or 6" pin with a bar between 2 walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bofe954 Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 We use 2X2 supports and snow fence. The snow fence is nice and light but you can see through it which can make things easy. Sometimes it's covered with landscape paper. We use bases made out of 2X4's. basically 3 2X4's stacked about 30 inches long and nailed together, the middle layer has a a gap for the 2X2. If it's windy we throw a sandbag on the bases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Watch the video on this post for some wall ideas. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=925495 The bases are spiked into the ground. They work well in most conditions and this match (300 rounds 6 stages) was all set up the morning of the match so they go up pretty quick. Later, Chuck PS: We don't call the material "snow fence" since that would confuse people around here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SA Friday Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 I had a bunch of metal bases built. They are 1/2 thick steel plate@12"X12". Welded to that is a piece of box channel that a 2x4 fits into. Throw the base on the ground stick a 2x4 in it and you are ready to go. we had holes punched in the plate so we could stake them down. The wall will stand by themselves without staking them down so set up is pretty easy. I will try to post a picture this week some time. We also have the rebar as well. We don't use them as often now that we have the metal bases, Tom Same bases in CO, minus the 1/2 steel plate. We use thinner steel T'ed out and then staked in a hole in each side. works great. Wind is your enemy and determining factor for strength. I remember the winds in Grand Forks, you might want to skip the PVC and 2x2's and go with heavier stuff like 2x4s and snow fence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaG Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 We use 2x2x8's with a sheet of 4x8 Coraplastic (the stuff election signs are made of) also use1/4" plywood for corner gussests. The stands are 2x2 tubing cut to 4' lengths with a short piece of angle iron welded to the bottom of the tube. One man can set up very easily. DaG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gundry Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 Thanks for sharing all the info folks. Gives me some idea about what might work... Keep the setups coming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 (edited) I had a bunch of metal bases built. They are 1/2 thick steel plate@12"X12". Welded to that is a piece of box channel that a 2x4 fits into. Throw the base on the ground stick a 2x4 in it and you are ready to go. we had holes punched in the plate so we could stake them down. The wall will stand by themselves without staking them down so set up is pretty easy. I will try to post a picture this week some time. Tom is this what you were referring to ? I really like the way that looks, as well as how it works. Edited February 26, 2009 by CHRIS KEEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 We need more pictures. Mongo like picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John2A Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 (edited) Please see the following. The main thing in the picture is a door from Free Idaho I have drawings if any one wants them just send a PM with an email address. The walls are 1.25 schedule 40 PVC 6x8 covered with a tarp from the big box stores. I drive a 4' piece of rebar into the ground and then slide the walls over them. It will withstand a full blast from my back pack blower at ~ 135 mph. I have drawings for them as well send me a PM with a email address and they are yours. EDIT - the walls can be built pretty cheaply - I am doing some pricing now and found that I can build 20 6 x 8 walls for a little more than 500.00 materials can be purchased from any HD or Lowes or other plumbing supply store. Edited February 26, 2009 by John2A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mainus Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 I had a bunch of metal bases built. They are 1/2 thick steel plate@12"X12". Welded to that is a piece of box channel that a 2x4 fits into. Throw the base on the ground stick a 2x4 in it and you are ready to go. we had holes punched in the plate so we could stake them down. The wall will stand by themselves without staking them down so set up is pretty easy. I will try to post a picture this week some time. Tom is this what you were referring to ? I really like the way that looks, as well as how it works. Those are the ones from Pinetree in Rockford aren't they. That is where I got the idea from. There's are made a little lighter than the ones I had made. Ours are heavy but that is what I wanted. We can just stake the bases down and your done. If it is a long wall we put a couple of braces to stiffen it up. We are switching our walls over from 2x2 with plywood to the coraplast. We use the coraplast walls for montlhy matches and then for the sectional I have 60 made with the snow fence. The snow fence is nice but it doesn't store well in our trailer. We slide our walls in from the end and the snow fence catches on the other wall. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mainus Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Here are the pictures of our bases, walls, and our IPSC trailer. I can just about set up for the sectional with everything that is in the trailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mainus Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 One more of the trailer. We paid $50 for it. Was going to be the local lions club beer trailer . Luckily for us it was never meant to be. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmonii Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 All these replies are great, and Dave is right, we've tried many of them. We have one major issue for our upcoming "Winter Storm Shoot" on the 21st, the ground is frozen! Absolutely no way of pounding a post, nail or any spike into the ground. We did try lag scres once with limited success. The above plates are great for indoor shoots, we are in the process of bulding coroplast walls (colors and FUN!) But wind becomes a huge issue, so we're looking for a creative way to prop em up where its breezy. The second issue is setup time, pounding posts is slow. and inflexible, if we make a layout mistake, you either live with it, or pull the posts. Third issue is muscles, try shooting a match 15 minutes after you pound 15 posts in hard ground! No wonder I suck! The rebar idea I saw at MAPSA, they use 9 foot rebar with an 8" or so bend at each end, you simply put one end in the predrilled hole in the 2X2 frame and the other . . . Well this can be an issue as it can't be in the shooting lane. If walls are not parallel, or perpendicular at best as in the photo above, they become self supporting. So we may have to use juducuious bent-wall design in our stages As always, entertaining and fun to read, thanks for the info and keep the ideas coming. -H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmonii Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 One more of the trailer. We paid $50 for it. Was going to be the local lions club beer trailer . Luckily for us it was never meant to be.Tom LOVE the trailer, anyone got one for $50? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmonii Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Good lord how many rounds were in that second stage! Those look great, it's breezy where we are, they would not stand up unfortunately. -harmon Watch the video on this post for some wall ideas. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=925495 The bases are spiked into the ground. They work well in most conditions and this match (300 rounds 6 stages) was all set up the morning of the match so they go up pretty quick.Later, Chuck PS: We don't call the material "snow fence" since that would confuse people around here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Hello: I'll take some pics of the walls I made for our local club. The materials are: 1x1 square steel tubing 0.120 wall, 3/16x3" mild steel and some electrical conduit 1.250 I believe. They are light enough that one person can put them up but strong enough they will hold up to some ruff handling. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 I was playing with Google's Sketch Up and was able to draw a representation of our walls and braces. 2x4 frame and plywood face for the wall. 2x4's for the supports. We screw the walls together with dry wall screws and screw the supports on as needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Dave, up at scapsa we have walls that use this system. If you come to the match this Sat i can show you what we have. Basicly it is a piece of rebar in the shape of an L. The 2x2 wall frame has 1/2 inch holes in the side and you hook the short leg of the rebar through the hole and the long side has a small loop that you can pound a spike through if you want. It works ok but if you have a port it can sometimes limit your target placement because you don't want the rebar in the bullet path. SV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duster Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Our Wall/doorway. Looks heavy but two guys can move it around. 2x4 frame with 3/8 plywood walls secured by 2x2's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt P. Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 How are your clubs walls supported?We've traditionally used fence posts pounded into the ground, and just zip tied the wall posts (2x2's) to them. Works great, but fairly labor intensive to install and remove the posts. We've also tried 5 gal buckets filled with concrete with PVC pipes in them to hold the walls, but they seem to be either too heavy to carry around or not heavy enough for the high-wind days. Was chatting with someone today who was mentioning using rebar that just 'hooked' into the wall supports somehow, but didn't knwo the specifics - anyone know more about this? Any other ideas? Dave, The new walls we are using at SCAPSA are probably the best I have seen and used. I don't have pictures today but I will take some on Tuesday. The new fabric material is great because you can stretch them very tight so the wind doesn't effect them, they are see through which is great for safety, and they are VERY lightweight. The downside is that we still use poles to mount them to but, because of their ease of use, the trade off is worth it. Maybe come out this Tuesday and check it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11.43mm Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 Bro Wells in FLA makes "pound-ins" that two can carry to a pistol bay and set up walls and targets in 5-6 minutes. Magic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmerritt Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 [Mod note: merged threads.] Thought about using a 2' x 1/2 in. rebar, with a 3" sq. tube welded in the middle, so the frame of the wall ( 2x2) could slide in it. so is this a good idea or would it be a safety issue, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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