harmonii

+1 on Remi 115,s and the WWB 115's as well, they make minor in many cases, we did have one guy shooting WWB 115's that came up with 124 PF last year at our points match .40's seem to make major just fine.

+1 on the capacity, +1 on brass is cheap and plentiful, bullets are cheaper. +1 on Major scoring too! actual recoil is the same, as the power factor is the same. "felt recoil" is subjective, many say that the .45 is softer shooting, I have 1911's in both and they feel much the same to me.

Leaving Wed, staying through Sunday as I would RO is I go. Anyone?

Hey, I didn't know it until a few minutes ago, but I am going, and am looking at options, from SE Minnesota, 15-16 hour drive, anyone going? I have a good reliable efficient car, except when the accelerator sticks....

I also see some shinyness on the lugs, perhaps they were never fit properly, is Colt like Springer in that they have a good warranty? -H

Gun: Colt, 1911 in .40 S&W, 18 lb. (at least) mainspring. Link, barrel, slide have not been altered by anyone, factory. Trigger, MSH, beavertail, and front sight are what I've changed. Ammo, 180 gr Moly coated rnfp (BBI) in front of 4.8 231, chrono's at 940, 169 PF. very reliable. Have not had any failures related to ammo. Shooter, Bullseye DM, USPSA shooter, etc... I shot into snow at 50 feet, with the same ammo my springfield 1911, the shots go in the same hole, this Colt seems to not be able to be consistent. I can depress the barrel hood after it locks up, even softly clicks sometimes when I push down. My other 1911's have no movement. Just wondering if anyone has any advice, I searched for some terms on the forum and didn't find too much. Thanks -H

You need RO's?

Me. (ALUMAGRIPS are the coolest for functional use...) Big Leaf Maple burl.... And my favorites in ebony - picture's not great....

Yeah, besides my GCNM and 1918, I have two DW's man are they nice, .45 though, which has become prohibitive to shoot, hence the .40 search. They do make a nice firearm.

OK well it sounds like freedom is the place, (even though I realize the audience is biased... nothing wrong with that. ) I have most of it saved, so I am almost ready to pull the trigger, (pun!) SO, question, freedom has a better price than STI out the door, I'll need mags too I s'pose. magwell from one of my 1911's fit? I shoot BBI or Precision moly coats, no issue there? Don't think so but the load will probably change somewhat. -H Incidentally, for what it's worth, I run a USPSA club in MN. 40+ shooters a week!

So after long deliberation, I've decided I would like to find a SS (1911) in .40. In the interest of research, who makes a good one that is not too expensive? say under 1K?

Our club in SE Minnesota is looking for anyone driving down to the TEXAS STATE LIMITED CHAMPIONSHIP 2009 on 8/21/09, at RIDGE RUNNERS GUN CLUB in BRECKENRIDGE,TX. We would like to purchase a Texas Star and save the $200 shipping. They can deliver one to the match. Mod: please feel free to put this in another forum if it fits better, figured I'd start here. -Harmon

Good lord how many rounds were in that second stage! Those look great, it's breezy where we are, they would not stand up unfortunately. -harmon

LOVE the trailer, anyone got one for $50?

All these replies are great, and Dave is right, we've tried many of them. We have one major issue for our upcoming "Winter Storm Shoot" on the 21st, the ground is frozen! Absolutely no way of pounding a post, nail or any spike into the ground. We did try lag scres once with limited success. The above plates are great for indoor shoots, we are in the process of bulding coroplast walls (colors and FUN!) But wind becomes a huge issue, so we're looking for a creative way to prop em up where its breezy. The second issue is setup time, pounding posts is slow. and inflexible, if we make a layout mistake, you either live with it, or pull the posts. Third issue is muscles, try shooting a match 15 minutes after you pound 15 posts in hard ground! No wonder I suck! The rebar idea I saw at MAPSA, they use 9 foot rebar with an 8" or so bend at each end, you simply put one end in the predrilled hole in the 2X2 frame and the other . . . Well this can be an issue as it can't be in the shooting lane. If walls are not parallel, or perpendicular at best as in the photo above, they become self supporting. So we may have to use juducuious bent-wall design in our stages As always, entertaining and fun to read, thanks for the info and keep the ideas coming. -H

Short answer based on a mathematical analysis performed by a mathematician friend of mine. The higher up in the HF and ranking you are, the more difference one point makes, so major is a must. However, at mid-levels, a Mike is worth up to 10 seconds of time, so a couple points here and there... no biggie.

If I glass-bead a G22 slide, as it is all chipped. Once stripped, what is a good finish? Are there merits to hard-chroming? Can I leave it bare, will the tennifer treatment with a thin coat of oil prevent rust? Right now where the finish is chpped off it has not rusted at all. I think the gun will look good with a silver top end, what about parkerizing? Just looking for suggestions. -H

Can you handle .dst files. al Al, From what I understand, yes, her machine reads them. -Harmon

I just did NOT know where to put this topic. Mods, please feel free to move it if you know where it makes more sense. My wife recently got an embroidery machine. For our USPSA club, we'd like to incorporate the USPSA paper taget into our club logo to have embroidered on shirts. I just know someone has to have done this, typical software is Embird, but my wife has a Genome MB-4 so anything compatible with that will do. I'd also like to find out is anyone has the USPSA logo converted. Anyone? -H

Nice site, had not seen that before... So with FMJ, that easily makes minor, (124 * 1060) /1000 = 131.4 Have you chrono'd your 4.25 gr load? (My scale does not go that fine... ) -H

Thanks Doug, Winchester website only lists a 125 gr projectile, not 124 (negligable?). but they list the MIN and MAX as 4.4 and 4.8 for the 125 with 1009 and 1088 fps respectively. It would appear both make minor as the lower amount -barely- does (124 * 1009)/1000 = 125.1 Tough to reconcile racerba's post though, as 4.2 gr of 231 by my calculations would not make minor unless you go deeper than 1.090 on OAL and crimp the hell out of it. Could the G35 with the longer barell help in that respect? -H

OK this is for a G34. I had some Win 124gr FMJ's on-hand. I found recipes for -125 gr- FMJ's, but not 124, so after starting out with 4.7 gr of 231 and an OAL of 1.090 I have backed it down to 4.5 and that seems to work very reliably. Just wondering why there are no recipes for 124gr and 231? Or why there seem to be less recipes for 231 and 9mm in general. I use the same powder for .45 and .40 with excellent results. -H

Agreed, will take a pic. It's the Hemisphere limited, I shoot Lim-10 so it works for me, probably not for SS or Prod. Probably not. I am pretty sure the frontstrap of the gun will be too low, (Harmonii: Stuff a 1911 in it and take another pic) Later, Chuck

Pics, as promised....

Will do tonight at home.... good idea...