Donnie Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 (edited) This may help someone out there. I bought a new 1050 a couple of months ago and it also had primer problems. Out of 100 rounds at least 7 would be crushed and not seated at all in the case. This would cause the primer slide to jam up and I would have to remove the "primer station retain tab" and remove the crushed primer to free up the priming system. I tried every idea listed here and the one that helped was to remove the magazine shield cap and look down the primer magazine tube and see if the hole in the primer slide was centered. It helps to shine a bright light at the bottom with the retaining tab removed. Well I noticed the slide was going to far past the tube. I called Dillon and was told they had not encountered this problem. Their suggestion was to grind a little off the primer slide to make it center. Thats it, no offer to return it or anything and that would not have fixed my problem anyway. I was not very happy about having to put a grinder on a $1500 press. So after I got over that disappointment I decided to grind just a little off at a time on the primer slide stop instead (#13108) checking frequently to see if it was centered with the tube, where it meets the the frame to shorten it. Now it has worked perfect after 6000 rounds. After it was finally up and running I would not trade it for any other press out there. Edited April 2, 2007 by Donnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefano Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Hi Folks, I've got my new Super 1050 only two weeks ago and I'm getting crasy for the same problem (primer feedin & crushed primers) me too .... I'm very disappointed because when I've decided this upgrade (I own also an XL650 ...) I NEVER woulh have thinked this kind of problems ... The result is that ... the 1050 lies on the bench near the "old faitful" XL650, and this last .... now must work also for the biggest sister ... I've read all your precious tips on the argument, and - when I'll have time - I'll try the suggested solutions ... My only question is: HOW IS POSSIBLE THAT DILLON HAS NOT YET COVERED (& SOLVED) THIS PROBLEM ? Thanks to you all Stefano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ipscbob Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 (edited) ... Edited July 26, 2007 by ipscbob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 The best things in life require some study. Driving a car, riding a motorcycle, skiing, shooting a handgun well or romancing a woman all take practice to excel at. Just figure it (the learning curve) as your initiation into a very exclusive club..... The price - (learning a little tuning) - is worth it. You end up having the best and fastest non commercial loader in the world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefano Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 The best things in life require some study. Driving a car, riding a motorcycle, skiing, shooting a handgun well or romancing a woman all take practice to excel at. Just figure it (the learning curve) as your initiation into a very exclusive club..... The price - (learning a little tuning) - is worth it. You end up having the best and fastest non commercial loader in the world. Yeah, that's true ! I have to start ASAP the "challenge" with the Super 1050, but I'm still waiting for the "right inspiration" ... and mostly a few spare time): at the moment I'm preparing for the EHC in France ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Good luck with Both of your quests! Lert us know how it All works out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Hello: With my limited experience with the 1050, I found out that you have to look at primer tube alignment and cleaning. I borrowed a friends (Merlin) 1050 in 9mm and had primer problems. I checked alignment which was ok and still had problems. I then cleaned and polished the primer shuttle hole and then it has worked great. I also noticed that it needs the primer pocket swager for some brass. Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L9X25 Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I have never had to adjust the primer alignment but have had to clean the primer slide more than once. Anytime I experience primer problems, a quick slide cleaning solves the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Chitlin Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I had problems with priming on my 1050 set up for 223 that I bought last December. After many sleepless nights working with it and many frustrating calls to Dillon, I finally started working with the guy that posts by the user name of "dillon" on this web site. I finally had to send my press back to the factory. About 10 days later it came back, and since then has loaded ~2K of 223 and had only 1 primer that failed to seat. Since they got it up and running, this thing is the cats' meow!! They'll make it right one way or the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefano Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 ........... I also noticed that it needs the primer pocket swager for some brass. Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric By the way ..... Can anybody suggest to me a good way for setting properly the swager ? I've followed the user's manual indications, but I'm not sure to have done all well .... Any tip/trick for a good setup ? Thanks so much ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAL Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Take a case to a grinder or cut it in half. I ground down some just until I got into the primer hole then put it on the press with the cut out facing out. You now have a perfect window to see to adjust the swager and back up die to optimum performance. I can post a picture if anyone needs to see to get what I mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefano Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Take a case to a grinder or cut it in half. I ground down some just until I got into the primer hole then put it on the press with the cut out facing out. You now have a perfect window to see to adjust the swager and back up die to optimum performance. I can post a picture if anyone needs to see to get what I mean. WOW, RIGHT ! ! That's perfect ! I'll try it ! ! Thanks so much ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefano Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Hi folks, well ... just to inform all of you about the challenge with my new Super 1050 ... I've worked a lot on it, following ALL the tips I've found here, in this EXCELLENT thread, and last night .... I've finally reloaded my first 200 rounds without primer feeding problems ! Now I've only to solve a little issue about decapping: Reloading 200 rounds, I've got a couple of non-decapped brasses in which the spent primes was compressed by the swager .... Not a very-big problem because when this brass arrives over the priming station you can feel it with the crank and stop. Anyway now I'm serching for a solution for this problem too ... My Dillon reseller suggested me to replace the original decapping pin with the RCBS one (longer) but I dont' know how because the lower part of the RCBS pin is much more thin that Dillon's one. Any suggestion ? Thanks so much ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ipscbob Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Try this.....Pull out the dillon decapping pin and with a file just slightly bevel around the tip of the pin. That should fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefano Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Try this.....Pull out the dillon decapping pin and with a file just slightly bevel around the tip of the pin. That should fix it. Thanks Bob ... already done, it's a lot better, but the problem still exist. Every 200 brasses, I have 2 or 3 decapping failure ... I know that it could be depending to the brasses, but I ask myself if exist a definitive solution ! Is there on the market a more efficient resizing/decapping die ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnhurd Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 You do have the size\decap die screwed down tight to the shell plate, so it cams down stroke don't ya??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefano Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 You do have the size\decap die screwed down tight to the shell plate, so it cams down stroke don't ya??? Of course, it's properly screwed down: "cheek-to-cheek" with the shellplate ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuskySig Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 (edited) I've been using a Super 1050 to load 9mm for about three months now and from the start I have been experiencing all of the problems previously mentioned in this thread: crushed primers and smeared primers which result in primer-less brass and frequent stoppages. I contacted Dillon a couple of months ago and they sent out a brand new primer slide. The problems never really improved with the part change. The new primer slide lets the primers sit about 0.010 inches lower than the original primer slide. Since then, I found this thread and have done many of the above recommendations. I polished the pocket on the primer slide, disassembled the shell plate and the primer station giving everything a thorough cleaning. I will say the number of smeared primers has dropped a little. There are still plenty of crushed primers and primer-less brass to cause concern. I've tensioned the primer retention tab over and over without much change. I have tried looking down the primer feed tube while shining a light through the bottom of the press to see whether or not the primer slide was stopping in the correct location, but there is a problem. The cast iron base of the Super 1050 is shaped that only a half circle of light can pass through it and into the primer feed tube. This makes it very difficult to determine if the primer slide is in the correct location. Any ideas? In my experience, the Super 1050 works pretty well if only half of the stations are loaded at any one time. As far as the primer retention tab goes, the Super 1050 works just about the same whether or not it is installed. Without it installed stoppage clearing is considerably easier and faster. I think the current rate of production is about 200 rounds per hour with about a five to ten percent failure rate. This is pretty ridiculous for a press that is rated at 1000 rounds per hour. Thanks for the help! mattk Edited February 3, 2008 by HuskySig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 (edited) see if any of the info in this thread helps you. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57439 I also ended up cutting a case in half to properly adjust my swage station. Edited February 3, 2008 by slavex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 Huskysig, Remove the case retaining tab and shine the light through the slot on top of the primer slide. You need to use a bright light like a surefire G2. The primer slide is so smooth it will reflect plenty of light so you can see. Work the primer slide slowly by hand. It should stop dead center of the magazine tube. After making the adjustments I mentioned above I have loaded 14000 rounds without any primer feed problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Egan Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Make sure that your machine is bolted rock solid to the table, and that the table is rock solid. No movement at all when you are loading, otherwise you can get primer misfeed and smears. I didnt believe it until I tried it. Worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 the above reply is probably one of the most important things yet mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted February 16, 2008 Share Posted February 16, 2008 The single most important adjustment that made my 1050's priming sytem pretty much 100% reliable - However you have to do it, adjust the primer slide's stop position so that a single primer, dropped down the tube goes into the hole in the primer slide - 10 times in a row. (No more than one primer, no primer follower rod - just a single primer.) You may have to shim the primer slide's stop to reach that state. But before you start shimming the primer slide stop "half-moon-looking" bolt (sku 13108), be sure the rubber tube that goes over the primer slide stop pin is in good shape (not flattened). If it isn't perfect, replace it with a new piece of 1/8" vacuum hose, then: Shim sku #13108 with .001" thick shims (or whatever size shim it takes) until you obtain the first paragraph's state of perfection. I never had to re-shim it after that. And then, since I started with a new piece of rubber tube, if it started to compress after time, I could either rotate or replace it and be back in business. I called Dillon and they don't have any shims that thin (the thinnest they have is .010"), so I probably made my own. (It's been too long and I'm old so I can't remember.) If you can find some .001" shim stock, you can easily cut it with scissors and punch a hole in it with a hole punch. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Burchfield Posted February 16, 2008 Share Posted February 16, 2008 Just by luck (I think) I came by a 1990 model 1050 and I've had problems all along with the primer feed. The best thing that I've tried is to polish the slide bar with 2000 sand paper and a couple of days ago I started using Hornady's dry lube on it(the stuff in the black label can). So far I'm having good results. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted February 16, 2008 Share Posted February 16, 2008 Make sure that your machine is bolted rock solid to the table,and that the table is rock solid. No movement at all when you are loading, otherwise you can get primer misfeed and smears. I didnt believe it until I tried it. Worth a shot. I spent some time sorting out the priming system in our old house -- wood frame -- where the reloading room was on the second floor. Things were never perfect, and I'd get maybe 8 or 10 cases/1000 that weren't primed. Fast forward to the new house -- sitting on a concrete slab with no basement -- where the press lives on the first floor on top of the slab, and all priming problems have gone away, it simply runs perfectly. If I had to build a house, you can bet that the reloading room would be on a slab of concrete from now on..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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