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Proper way to clean an M&P


sperman

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I did a search for this, but didn't find any posts. If they're out there, please point me in the correct direction.

I've been primarily shooting single stack. When I finally broke down and cleaned the gun I took it completely apart, and all the parts went in the sonic cleaner.

I've switched over to production for a while, and I'm not sure of the proper way to clean my new M&P. Any recommendations?

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I did a search for this, but didn't find any posts. If they're out there, please point me in the correct direction.

I've been primarily shooting single stack. When I finally broke down and cleaned the gun I took it completely apart, and all the parts went in the sonic cleaner.

I've switched over to production for a while, and I'm not sure of the proper way to clean my new M&P. Any recommendations?

WHen I do clean my Glocks or XD I hose them down with Rem oil and wipe them off

Yoy can really get 90% of the crap off a polymer gun with a dry rag most times

Gun scrubber makes a plastic safe spray also

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Red can CRC Brake-Clean, blow it all out with an air compressor, put a few drops of oil where needed and you're done. DO NOT use the green can CRC brake clean (non-chlorinated) - certain plastics and finishes don't get along real well with that stuff. Also, do not use excessive amounts of the red can stuff around open flame or natural gas heaters (ie garage heaters). Chlorinated solvents and combustion = hydrochloric acid = rusted heater and bad fumes.

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Red can CRC Brake-Clean, blow it all out with an air compressor, put a few drops of oil where needed and you're done. DO NOT use the green can CRC brake clean (non-chlorinated) - certain plastics and finishes don't get along real well with that stuff. Also, do not use excessive amounts of the red can stuff around open flame or natural gas heaters (ie garage heaters). Chlorinated solvents and combustion = hydrochloric acid = rusted heater and bad fumes.

I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner on my Glocks without any problems. :D

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People:

Don't waste your hard earned coin on GunScrubber and the like. It's nothing more than glorified Brake Cleener. Just read the MSDS sheets - they are on-line - and see what the main component is.

Trichloroethylene or Heptane is the main ingredient.

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I throughly clean my Glocks once a year weather they need it or not. Barrel-Blue Wonder. Slide- Non-Chlorinated Break Cleaner. Frame-Simple Green and hot water. Note: I run a bore-snake soaked with Hoppes #9 through the barrel once or twice a month.

Jim

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I did a search for this, but didn't find any posts. If they're out there, please point me in the correct direction.

I've been primarily shooting single stack. When I finally broke down and cleaned the gun I took it completely apart, and all the parts went in the sonic cleaner.

I've switched over to production for a while, and I'm not sure of the proper way to clean my new M&P. Any recommendations?

If you have a sonic cleaner, that's your answer....they clean Glocks perfectly. That's what we used at the Pentagon (small indoor range) and man, was it a time saver!

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don't some ultrasonic cleaners damage plastic parts? The State Police qualify at our range, and IIRC, the armorer said that it would eat a plastic gun, or plastic parts on a gun. Is there something specific to avoid?

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You guys that use Simple Green - do you rinse with water? or just wipe it off and leave some in there? Full strength or diluted?

I spray it full strength and brush the parts with an old toothbrush. Then I rinse with running water to remove all of the Simple Green and lubricate the parts with CLP. Simple Green is a really good degreaser so make sure to add some lubricant/protectant to the metal parts to avoid corrosion.

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don't some ultrasonic cleaners damage plastic parts? The State Police qualify at our range, and IIRC, the armorer said that it would eat a plastic gun, or plastic parts on a gun. Is there something specific to avoid?

Maybe if you use solvent, but you don't need to put the frame in the cleaner.

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Ultrasonic cleaner with either M-Pro 7 or Poly Dunkit from Cylinder and Slide. Leave it in for about 30 min with some heat (warm not hot). Pull it out and let it drip, wipe dry, put together, and oil. Works great without scrubbing.

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