markwilliston Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I've got a "new" used Edge in .40 I'm familiar with the previous owner and the guns history so I'm not stressed over it. I was getting some weird malfunctions with it right off the bat. This was working up a load, so the PF was down around minor, and I am using about a 14lbs recoil spring. With 10 rounds in the magazine, I would get 2 or 3 shots off. Then, pull the trigger, bang, the gun cycles, but finished with the hammer down, and a loaded round in the chamber.. Cock the hammer, pull the trigger, and 2 or 3 rounds later the same thing happens. Got home with the gun, started looking at it, took the trigger group out. It was major filthy/oily/grimey Cleaned it all up, and put it back together. Next time out, it did it once in 100 rounds. Still working up the PF, it's about halfway to major. I don't want to mess with the trigger cause everything about it feels great. I should have my match load up to major for tomorows practice, and I think I'm going to try a 10lbs recoil spring. Curious to see if it still does it. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Was the hammer all the way down or on half cock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franksremote Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 New sear spring fixed this last time for me. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliston Posted September 27, 2007 Author Share Posted September 27, 2007 Hammer all the way down, round in the chamber doesn't fire. Really weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I've had the same problems with my Edge Mark. I tried a couple of things at the recommendation of my pistolsmith, and what seemed to fix it ( temporarily ) was backing the overtravel screw out just a touch. I don't like that fix because I feel like my trigger is not nearly as good as it was before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjbine Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I would check to size of the disconnector and see if it is up to spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newshooter Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I've had the same problems with my Edge Mark. I tried a couple of things at the recommendation of my pistolsmith, and what seemed to fix it ( temporarily ) was backing the overtravel screw out just a touch. I don't like that fix because I feel like my trigger is not nearly as good as it was before. +1 had to do the same thing and at the same time i put a new main spring in it. Every since then it hasnt done it again. Now that i said that it will probably start fallowing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resjudicata Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I've had this problem. I put just a little more tension on the sear finger of the sear spring. This solved my problem and didn't really add any perceptible weight to the trigger. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcattack Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 There are several things that can cause this problem. The easiest to try is sear spring. If that does not work a heavier main spring and adjust your sear spring after you install the main spring. And if it is bad enough the sear or hammer will have to have the hooks reshaped or just replace them both. I have tried all and each gun is different setup. I can run 18# main spring and with a 1# trigger pull all day long when everything is setup right. I used my gun six months with a 14 ounce trigger pull and no failures. I just had to many trigger freezes; trigger not keeping up with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 The below probably won't fix your problem (it sounds like something else), but...just in case.... Before you go changing anything, do this check (not for the meek): 1) - Lock the slide back - Drop the slide on an empty chamber - Repeat 10X 2) - Lock the slide back - Pinch the trigger so that your fingers are against the frame. The idea being to physical pin the trigger in its most forward position. - Drop the slide. Repeat 10X If the hammer "follows" during 1 and not during 2, what you have is an issue where the intertia of the trigger is firing the gun. The fix is more trigger return force and/or additional pre-travel. You really need at a minimum of 0.050 of pretravel. I like a bit more than that for peace of mind. If you can't live with the pre-travel (pre-travel is pretty transparent to me) then you'll have to add trigger return and sear weight until it stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 The below probably won't fix your problem (it sounds like something else), but...just in case....Before you go changing anything, do this check (not for the meek): 1) - Lock the slide back - Drop the slide on an empty chamber - Repeat 10X 2) - Lock the slide back - Pinch the trigger so that your fingers are against the frame. The idea being to physical pin the trigger in its most forward position. - Drop the slide. Repeat 10X If the hammer "follows" during 1 and not during 2, what you have is an issue where the intertia of the trigger is firing the gun. The fix is more trigger return force and/or additional pre-travel. You really need at a minimum of 0.050 of pretravel. I like a bit more than that for peace of mind. If you can't live with the pre-travel (pre-travel is pretty transparent to me) then you'll have to add trigger return and sear weight until it stops. If the hammer wasn't following routinely before that test, it will be afterwards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Not with a properly built gun with good parts it won't. I'm not recommending it as a dry fire technique, but it did get my "following" issue sorted out 100%. I know people are going to have a cow over it, but it beats the shit out of AD'ing when you're loading up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz1911 Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 I've had this problem. I put just a little more tension on the sear finger of the sear spring. This solved my problem and didn't really add any perceptible weight to the trigger.Chris With a relatively light trigger ie:sub 2.5 lbs the tension on the sear finger is likely to be causing your problem. Either add tension or replace, but either way you will likely add a couple of ounces to your trigger pull. My trigger is set at 1lb 13oz and the sear spring tension is very critical. Either way this is a simple repair/test that can be done in minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resjudicata Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 I've had this problem. I put just a little more tension on the sear finger of the sear spring. This solved my problem and didn't really add any perceptible weight to the trigger.Chris With a relatively light trigger ie:sub 2.5 lbs the tension on the sear finger is likely to be causing your problem. Either add tension or replace, but either way you will likely add a couple of ounces to your trigger pull. My trigger is set at 1lb 13oz and the sear spring tension is very critical. Either way this is a simple repair/test that can be done in minutes. I didn't really think about the light triggers. Mine is probably closer to 3.5 #s. At my weight it wasn't noticable but probably would be for someone with a better trigger. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliston Posted September 28, 2007 Author Share Posted September 28, 2007 Appreciate the info and comments. I put 150 rounds of 175 powerfactor ammo through it today, and it didn't hiccup once. EricW, tried that, didn't drop once either way. The only differences between shooting the gun the first time and today are recoilmaster swapped for steel guide rod w/ 12lbs recoil spring, and ammo PF going from 125 up to 175, and just cleaning everything up. I read the Brazos tuning tips: Brazos Trigger tuning tips The gun passes on those tests. Right now the trigger is about 1 1/2 pounds, and crisp. I really like it. It's obviously not far from going south though, don't like that idea. The only part of the trigger group that didn't look 100% is the sear spring. I think I will order the Brazos trigger group package (2 friends have put it in and it's awesome). I'll test it out and have it as a backup. Probably also get another sear spring and see if we can make this group happier. By springtime I'd like to have 2 trigger groups for the gun that are gonna be hiccup free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeFoley Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Here is a little history that may help you rule out a few things. I haven't had the issue but one time in the past couple of years. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...c=16374&hl= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Not with a properly built gun with good parts it won't. I'm not recommending it as a dry fire technique, but it did get my "following" issue sorted out 100%. I know people are going to have a cow over it, but it beats the shit out of AD'ing when you're loading up. I do the same thing . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19852 Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 New sear spring did it for my father's old Colt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cking Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 I just read the 9page thread on hammer follow. Here is what I've found that can lead to hammer follow. Pin holes too large or crooked, not parellel Hammer strut contacting sear spring causing a loss of tension Ramp angle too steep cause a momentary hault of the slide during feed Barrel lugs hitting slide stop too soon, again haulting the slide during feed. Too strong recoil spring, too low hammer spring. Plus all the usual sear hammer spring stuff. Running a light trigger means everything else has to be perfect. Gunsmithing is an art and science. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjbine Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Gunsmithing is an art and science. Yes it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 If the hammer follow on the half cock just give more tension to the half leaf of the sear spring If the hammer follow on the slide start to give more tension to the left leaf (sear leaf) of the sear spring, if it continue to follow give more tension also on the half leaf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 Another thing I've seen was the "grip screws" loosening. The plastic grip moved just enough that the hammer would follow. Looking at it quickly, it looked like it was properly seated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 If and when I get a hammer follow I look at the middle finger of the sear spring first. If it's not pushing the disconnector up fast enough (or at all) the bottom won't catch the sear feet and if the sear doesn't catch the hammer then.... Look at that middle finger for wear marks from the hammer strut. If you're rubbing the spring with the strut you're loosing tension on that part of the spring and it's not pushing the disconnector up like it should. It also soundslike that gun had allot of gunk in it's works that may have prevented it from working correctly. Shavings from the ejector etc can have an infuence on those parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crusher Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 If and when I get a hammer follow I look at the middle finger of the sear spring first.If it's not pushing the disconnector up fast enough (or at all) the bottom won't catch the sear feet and if the sear doesn't catch the hammer then.... Ditto, another little trick is to angle the sear spring lock tab (the tab at the base of the sear spring) so that it allows you to raise the contact height of each leaf on the sear and disconnector. This applies more leaf surface area/force to the disconnector and sear without increasing the trigger pull weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 Had a very intermitent follow in My 6" Fat Free. Plagued me for about a year anda half. Benny recut EVERYTHING, Benny Replaced ALMOST everything. I tried a new disconector after talking with Kevin Toothman, and It is now 100% after about 2000 rounds. Don't forget the disconector! KURTM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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