Josh Biondi

thank you for sharing info!

SwissPewPew can you share the link where you bought this spring?

How not to agree with you? Unfortunately, the dilemma after spending a lot of money is to stay complaining without solving the problem or to act and make the press work well without jams (which would always piss you off a lot)? I chose the latter.

Your trouble is in the arm that touch the press body and don't return in its original position, so the disk dont rotate. Look at the pics i cut a bit material on the body press just as need to get the arm move freely. Its the best solution. After this, that you may not like it but it is extremely functional and will solve the problem for you. The primer feeders will work like a Swiss watch made the necessary adjustments.

I use LEE Udies for both decapping and primer primer. I reload in .40 and with the Apex10 I had no problems with excessive resistance in the movement.

Correct analysis that I fully agree with. The Apex10 is an excellent press you have to 'understand' it well, but once set up it works like a Swiss watch. I also share the critical points highlighted by the powder measure. It costs a lot of money but it's not that functional. Personally I was considering getting the Hornady one which has the same drum system but they tell me it works better.

With a too short hood the slide slam the barrel on the back of the hood (because the barrel moves ahead with a not correct closure). This is because the recoil spring pull ahead the slide. Plus there are other trouble because all the force push on the barrel and the barrel lugs apex works critacally, and the link barrel works under force due to the thrust foward of the slide on the barrel hood.

you mean barrel with hood of 1.307?

Usually the STI side has a hood space of 1.315 as showend in the picture. The ideal fit is to get a barrel hood sligtly short that works tight. But...but if you have a barrel with hood length of 1.311 due to the use or because you cut too much material whats your opinion...is it too short and in that way its necessary to welder little material on the back of the hood to recover the right measure or this could be considerate as a tollerance? Anyway whats are the trouble that a gun can get from similar fit? Your opinion will be appreciate. Thanks ahead!!

If you dont get answer from STI you could be weldering the crack with laser welder. It will works in this zone. However go to a gunsmith and make check the gun its seems like the hold open works badly.

Your opinion seems to me really right! Im on the same thoughtline

Thank you for the advice. I agree with you way!

In fact, in twenty years I've shot I broken 4 frames and 3 slides ... I don't think the STI warranty service could be affected because the slides have been punctured

Cut are rounded no apex corner...Im thinking that on the slide its necessary have absolutely NO HOLE and especially NO HOLE in that stress part.......

No way. I check my gun after every training session or after every match.....

slide suicede ?

On the first gun (43000rounds) with DPM shoots around 4000rounds; the second gun (63000rounds) with DPM shoots 15000rounds

This is why I asked it to the big B_Enos forum community!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I need help............

No! obsolutely not changed in my charge. All the data are confirmed and no way for double charge.........

Well...dont know where to start... both the guns are STI Edge 40S&W, ammo used are 170grs fmj bullets or 170grs colored copper, powder VV N320 or Nobel GM3 5.5grs for the FMJ and 5.1grs for colored copper, power factor major 174, DPM recoilreducer system with middle ring and middle/long spring (previously I used 13 lbs Wolff recoil spring and sprinco giude rod but its no matter now). Got cracked bot the slides in the same point last saturday and the day after sunday during a match. The guns has one 43000 rounds and the second 63000. What do you think guys? Any suggestion will be appreciate! thanks ahead

well im going to weldering the crack with a laser welder If you have any luck with this.... Please let me know Welding with laser done! Great job!!!!!!!!!! the break depends from the slide stop that hammering the frame. In the pics you can see the result before the bluing....https://www.dropbox.com/sh/08mbzw5t5wffuq8/AABU8-zMIPPXDTGLCHSmMpRha?dl=0

10.359 rounds ............

Some years ago when i was involved in competition...and i change one Edge every year so i dont notice this kind of crack. but now using the same gun for more time i discovered this sort of trouble that make me really disappointed because the gun that i loved more than the others was the STI guns and in particular the Edge! it was my friend for long time But I hate when you have a goldmine in your hands and you waste all.... do you know how many time i told to STI to thicken that frame part without know what can happen due to the thinness of the frame in that point? Well now im discovering it by myself :angry2:

I think that we have some ideas in common about this.... :roflol:and you lives in the USA.... just think how many trouble more than you I'll should bear if i wanna replace the frame............ :angry2: However I agree with your position no talking about issues with manufacturers.... the post is only to know and excange eachother the best way to solve this crack and above all WHY IT HAPPEN!!!!!!!!!!!