Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Removing comp


Fireant

Recommended Posts

I have a Barsto barrel with a Bedell Ti comp. The comp is loose and I need to remove it, clean it, and reinstall it. How do I get it off. I see the set screw, but I can not get it to move.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Propane torch works. Thats what most people use. Be careful with it so that you don't take out the temper of the metal. heat then twist a bit with a big wrench that fits, then heat and twist, etc. It is slow and hard work especially if you avoid discoloring the metal by over heating.

He really does mean kill it with fire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're trying to defeat the thread locking compound mostly, and alos get things expanded a little to make it turn better, and that takes about 300 degrees or so. Also, its a tight fit, hard to turn even without loctite or anything else complicating matters. Keep the heat localized and just on the comp threaded area. When you grab the comp with a clamp or wrench, be careful what you use, or you WILL leave big ugly marks.

The set screw is usually only effective if there is a hole drilled into the barrel as well for the screw to hold its clock position in.

Be very careful threading the comp on/off as if you screw up the threads, you may need a new barrel and comp if the threads can't be salvaged. Go slow.

Friend of mine did this procedure on his newer open gun (the comp was clocking) with a vise and pipe wrench, ended up needing new barrel and comp before he was through.

Good luck!

Edited by sfinney
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:blink:

Find a smith for gosh sakes their is a tool that is made to fit the barrel lugs with the comp held in soft vise jaws, you need even pressure

to turn the barrel out of the comp using pipe wrenches etc>isnt the way to go :surprise: Heat with a propane torch , you will see

locking compound start to bubble a little then its ready to put the pressure on it to turn the barrel out! :rolleyes:

Jim

Sailors

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Propane torch, be gentle. If the comp has flat sides, use a big crescent wrench and pad it so you don't scratch the comp. Clamp the barrel in a soft jaw vice, and heat the thread area until you can turn off the comp. If you accidentally turn the comp metal to a new color (which you shouldn't because the Loctite will soften way before that), you can bead blast it later.

Clean the threads perfectly and use #620 LocTite on the comp. Don't use the loctite primer, it weakens the loctite and you probably won't get the comp screwed on before it hardens. You can use a plumber's fitting brush on the internal comp threads.

Edited by Bret Heidkamp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First things first. Put the barrel back in the gun and set the comp so it is indexed perfectly both up and down and for length. Carefully put marks on the comp and the barrel with an awl or other sharp instrument so you can put it back on to the same place again (Mark the depth on the barrel also).

Use a propane torch but only passing it by the threaded area until you smell the locktite melt (unmistakeable smell) or the comp and the set screw start to move. Use a piece of leather to pad the comp and remove with a wrench.

Clean the thread with a weak wire brush and/or acetone till both the comp and barrel are clean. Reinstall with red locktite as described above. If you are going to be doing a lot of practice and getting the barrel really warm, get the epoxy comp/bedding glue from Brownells. It seems impervious to heat and your comp won't move any more. Will have to heat it up hotter than the locktite to get it off though if you ever need to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, I think I'll have a local smith do it for me. The set screw has a hole all the way through into the barrel. I guess the loctite let loose some. I'll look into the stuff from Brownells.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is probably because the threads are too loose for red loctite. You can't use red to fill larger thread gaps and it isn't anywhere near as strong as 620. 620 is the shizet, it is the highest temp loctite plus the psi strength is almost 3500! It is what all the top flight 'smiths use to hold comps.

I have no idea what the Brownells product is, anybody know exactly what it is?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Brownells product is called Acraweld Super Bonding Agent. It is a Nylon Epoxy and works extrememly well for comps. It's 2 parts and mixes to a peanut butter consistency. Never shoots loose takes heat better than loctite and fills gaps. Have done all 3 of my comps with it after they all shot loose with loctite - too many practice rounds. Stays pliable long enough to put the barrel back in the gun and line things up but takes 24 hours for full strength.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
The Brownells product is called Acraweld Super Bonding Agent. It is a Nylon Epoxy and works extrememly well for comps. It's 2 parts and mixes to a peanut butter consistency. Never shoots loose takes heat better than loctite and fills gaps. Have done all 3 of my comps with it after they all shot loose with loctite - too many practice rounds. Stays pliable long enough to put the barrel back in the gun and line things up but takes 24 hours for full strength.

And how do you go about getting the comp off after this stuff ? Heat, like loctite ???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

chuck norris just uses two hands. come on man up!

LOL. I use my hands for a living and have a fairly strong grip. I just hand removed my comp yesterday that was help on with red loctite and my hands flat out hurt today. I have used diffarant epoxy's out there for automotive and some metal bonding but have never tried to remove it. Just don't want to put this Brownells stuff on and find out late it don't come off :surprise:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
:blink:

Find a smith for gosh sakes their is a tool that is made to fit the barrel lugs with the comp held in soft vise jaws, you need even pressure

to turn the barrel out of the comp using pipe wrenches etc>isnt the way to go :surprise: Heat with a propane torch , you will see

locking compound start to bubble a little then its ready to put the pressure on it to turn the barrel out! :rolleyes:

Jim

Sailors

Anyone know what/where to get the tool that fits the lugs that Jim mentions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...