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Zeroing a C-More


Chris Leong

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I've read and heard of people that zero the dot at 50 yards

and then shoot off (Kentucky windage) for closer distances, and then some that zero at 25 and do the same for both closer and further.

I've also heard of people who zero in with a 4-MOA dot element and then switch back to the 8 or 10 for actual shooting.

Pros and cons? Favourite methods for zeroing?

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After a discussion with Shooter Grrl and her coach, I changed from a long zero to a short zero. I don't have time to hold high on those 7 yard head shots with no-shoots under the B zone perf. So I zeroed for those targets. Now I won't hit those no-shoots (and get Misses with them) unless I well and truly F&@# up and flinch or yank them in there.

On the 40 yard shots, I have to take the time for a good sight picture and sweet trigger pull anyway, so I spend some of that time holding low. (The bullet hits high at long range with a short range zero.)

Think of how many 7 and 10 yard targets you have in a match. Think of how many 40 or 50 yard targets you have. Multiply your "Kentucky elevation" time adjustment by the number of short targets. Multiply it by the # of long targets. On which targets are you losing the most time compensating for the bullet path? That's where you should zero.

P.S. Another good reason to shoot Limited!

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Chris,

I'm with the "short distance" zero theory. On thing, in addition to the other posts - after you zero at 10yds or so, try shooting off the "top of the dot" at 50. Often, it works out pretty cool. Because of the minds tencency to "center things," it feels easier to align something specific, like the top of the dot in the center of the target, as opposed to forcibly "holding low."

be

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  • 8 months later...

I have been tinkering with my new open pistol and I am starting to really like it. I sighted my C-More in at 25 yards knowing it would shoot high at closer yardage. I can't decide if I should zero the sight at a closer yardage and risk shooting plumb over a long target or just settle for B-Zone hits when I shoot at the A-B zone up close. Your thoughts???

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Ron,

Can you borrow a copy of the Sierra reloading manual for pistol?  The 4th addition, I think.  It has ballist data in it that I found helpful when considering this bullet drop/sight in stuff.  

You might be able to do the same thing with a PACT mk-IV.

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Your not?

I kinda thought that both the bullet trajectory and the sight height would be important factors?

(Edited by Flexmoney at 5:48 pm on May 28, 2002)

(Edited by Flexmoney at 5:58 pm on May 28, 2002)

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Flexmoney:

Yeppers, you are right that both factors are important. I am still new to this open gun thang and it seems as though the height of the optic is of primary concern and bullet drop is secondary. Heck, I don't know...that's why I asked.

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I have no doubt that you will get it all figured out.  I just wanted to nudge ya a little bit.  ;)

I know that you are a student of the game.  I figured you would want to search out the "why?"...before, you went with what works.  

I am sure you more than understand the ballistics stuff.  I found it to be a good resource for my skull osmosis rituals.

(Edited by Flexmoney at 11:19 pm on May 28, 2002)

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The minimum distance I like to sight my C-Mores in at is 50m, If I can do it at 100m I will, not only are you sure of the trajectory all the way out, but it give great confidence on hard shots and is great for accuracy practice.

Pat

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  • 1 year later...

Actually a few things impact the way I sight in a pistol. First the load data and second the dot size.

Lets say were using a 10 minute dot. In theory it will only cover about an 1" at 10 yards. If you move the decimal point to the left on the yardage, you will get the dot size at that yardage.

10 minute at 10 yards = 1.0 inch coverage

10 minute at 20 yards = 2.0 inch coverage

At Major with my 125 grain load going 1360 I want to sight in at 16 yards at the top of the dot. At 10 yards, you will -.69 lower than your sight in point. Your dot at 16 will cover 1.6 inches at 10, it will cover 1.0. Now if I am doing my math about right, you should be impacting .19 below the center of the dot.

Your dot will cover approximately 5 inches with a 10 minute dot at 50 yards. Your impact point will be +2.45 above line of sight. Which should put it at the top of the dot just inside the edge.

So, what is cool about this is that from 10 out, your bullets will impact inside of the dot.

The way to check this is to shoot a group each 5 yards, from 5 - 50 and make sure that your sight is dialed all the way out.

Hope I did the math right. <_<

Take care,

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  • 9 months later...

I was taught (ala Michael Voigt) to zero your gun according to the average distances of the types of stages you generally shoot. For example, the matches I shoot generally have target placements between 10 and 20 yards, so I zero at around 15-17 yards and verify where my gun shoots within those distances and further out.

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  • 3 years later...

I think I am going to use an idea many ISHMA shooters use. Sight my gun in at a certain distance say 10 yards then take some pictures of targets and shrink them to the size of luggage tags, then shoot clear out to say 60 yards and mark where I need to hold to hit the center A at say 25 35 45 60 yards. Go laminate them, if you have any questions about distances you can just walk them out and check your cards.... I can't ever remember on the money how high I need to hold on those LONG range classifiers and that has cost me a match or two...

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We can estimate where the bullet will hit at different distances, but I have a little more comfort if I can actually see where the bullet hits on a target and then adjust my shooting accordingly.

I have mine sighted in to zero at 25 yards. Since the distance from the bore to the center of the C-more is about 1-3/4", I took a clean target and drew several horizontal lines across it. Each line was labeled in 5 yard increments. I shot the 5 yard line at 5 yards holding the dot on the line. Moved back to 10 yards and repeat.

Now I know how high or low my hits are at different ranges.

That said, after reading this thread I'm leaning towards sighting my gun at about 12 yards and then see where the bullet hits at different distance.

Bill

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I have always went with a 15yd zero but last yr I switched up and went with a 25yd zero. I'm going back to a 15yd zero, most shots are at that distance or closer. I can remember shooting the Targeting Ed Ipsc match with headshots where you only had the A-zone and above available on the head which wasn't much or the 50yd partials. It felt like on those close hard targets I had to spend to much time on them. I literally had to aim above the head into the air to get my A-zone head shot if I remember right. I'm going back and see how it goes.

Flyin

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