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Chris Leong

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Everything posted by Chris Leong

  1. Suggestions, FWTW: 1)save up and get the set of Burner tapes. Spend all winter watching and practicing; 2)buy an airsoft pistol that matches your competition gun. use a scaled down indoor range at home and practice (recently a Japanese team did quite well at the Steel Challenge. When asked how'd they do that... airsoft.) 3)take up another kind of shooting that at least keeps the sight picture and trigger control going. I've started shooting the 50BMG rifle - talk about flinch control - the recoil, coming back to the 38 Super, seems SO small. (The gun too, for that matter. Call it weight training...) 4)go through every line in Brian's book and commit it to inward digestion 5)all of the above
  2. I've posted this before elsewhere, but it bears repeating: I'm a television editor by day, and have access to duplication and editing equipment. For members of this site, I'm willing to make not-for-profit dupes and compilations, and also loan out copies for the cost of postage. So if anybody has any rare video they'd like to share with the group, send me your original, I'll make a dupe for library use only and send the original back to you. That way we can all share in the wealth!
  3. Hey Kyle The best value for money is a Russian IZH35M, it's a hand pump gun that's around $240 or so. You have to work the grip so it fits your hand, though, or send it to the Gripman to have it fitted. Used guns go for around $600, nw more than $1200. Seaton charges $150 for a fitting, I believe. It's well worth it. IZHs from http://www.pilkguns.com, whose bulletin board Target Talk is the hub center for that sport. Also other links to supplies, etc, used guns. http://www.nygord-precision.com, Don Nygord's site, is also very informative. Of course you can link down under to http://www.potfire.com.au for interesting deals both in air pistols and in regular guns. I got a $1000 Olympic gun for $220 (no kidding) from Australia last year. The Gripman, aka Seaton Thomas is seaton1@earthlink.net, I think. I'll confirm that if you're interested.
  4. Hi Austin, yeah,especially those new fangled plastic guns,eh? :-} Pain in the backside. I've been trying to serrate the bottom of the trigger guard and the gun (STI) I have has a Ghost hole in it too. This hole too has been well and truly widened, let's say, by a lot of draws and replaces, a lot of them not quite spot on the money. Don't think anything will take that kind of abuse, let alone a plastic shell...
  5. Quite so, guys. A lighter gun with less bang and less recoil tends to show up flaws in sight picture and trigger control. I shoot UIT/ISSF (Olympic) air pistol, .177 caliber using compressed air from a SCUBA tank. Pellets cost $5-10 per tin of 500, I just filled the tank up after a year of use ($4.50), targets, the official 10-meter kind, are $45 per 500. That makes for pretty inexpensive practice. The iron sights are huge. Oh.. There's no felt recoil, well to all intents, none at all. Trigger's less than 1.5lbs, so all you have left is sight picture and trigger control. Since the gun will quite happily put pellets into the same hole at 30ft from a benchrest all day (or until the air runs out), guess what error is left??? :-) Also, for me, it makes a great cross-training tool, great for staving off those burnout-imminent days...
  6. A fellow USPSA shooter just won a Limcat holster and is selling his (used) Ghost for $75 delivered inside the US. It's on the USPSA member's website, if anybody's interested... Kath, I just realised that mine has the Velcro already, but when I practice at home, guess which genius doesn't use his inner belt??? (And you call your actions lightheaded...)
  7. Altogether too together for a person of the lightheaded persuasion...
  8. Here's something that may help. When I was apprenticing (yes, I was probably one of the last of the apprenticeship generation) my boss (gov'nor in British) used to say (this was photography, now shooting, alas) "at the end of each year, take all your negatives, put them in a pile, and burn them". Now, I never actually did that (I sent them to a stock library service instead, gotta retire someday, you know), but I got the drift - when you die, you carry nothing with you except maybe what you learned inside, time moves forwards for a reason, and all that. So what you carry with you is inside, your skill, experience, memories. After awhile it's time to refresh, to begin again, set aside, move on. I went back to precision shooting last week, just one session of slow fire. just for kicks. All 10s or better, groups much, much better than they were when I was "taking it seriously". That's more than 50 single shots at 50 meters slow fire, BTW, so no flash-in-the-pan there. (So then I start thinking, well maybe it works in reverse, y'know? if I shot more slow fire, d'ya think my IPSC scores will get better? :-) yeah right)
  9. I'm firmly on the Limcat side. Here's why. There's much less stuff on the Limcat. That's the upside, and also the downside. What there is, is not so easily adjustable. I got mine from a guy who didn't like it and sold it to me cheap. Turns out he didn't have it adjusted properly to his gun, it wouldn't lock in, fell out and DQd him once (since we were both using the same model gun, I tried mine just after I got it - it wouldn't lock, wouldn't even sit inside the guard lock, just on top of it. The slack was taken up solely by the cant adjustment screw. No wonder he didn't like it). I had to take the holster off its mount and adjust it on the gun, (whereas most other holsters, you put the holster on, put the gun in the holster, and adjust). Limcat does this the other way around, for me. Fit the holster to the gun, then put it on. Slightly more difficult to get your head around, but not much more than that. Once the holster was properly fitted to the gun (actually, to the trigger guard, there's not much else to it), it locked smoothly and properly, you could hold it upside town and shake it, no way will it fall anywhere except if you broke it with a sledgehammer. Unlocked, ditto, except for the one angle you need to draw the gun, i.e. directly along the axis of the holster. If you draw sloppy, i.e. more than, say 5 degrees off, you're slapping the holster and it will hang occasionally, depending on how much you're off. If you're on, you don't even feel it's there. So you have to practice your draw so the gun leaves the holster smoothly. So what else is new? :-) Other adjustments are easy and fine. You do need Allen keys and maybe a brass hammer to make it work when you get it - it's definitely not a "work-outof-the-box" proposition. So spend a little more time, maybe a half an hour, in the beginning, when you first get the holster, to learn how it works, make sure it's set up right from the start. After that I don't think I've touched it since. Haven't needed to. I'm not knocking the Ghost, I think it's good. It's just the Limcat appeals to me because of its lightness, its sheer elegance. I like that.
  10. Yeah, and Brownells supplies a chamber reamer specifically to reconfigure the chamber after the "safe" pin has dented it enough... Mine cost a lot to get straight after it was dryfired. Maybe the newer ones are indeed safe, but I've learned my lesson.
  11. Hey Todd Chris here. 1) DO NOT NOT NOT dry fire the Ruger!!!! 2) If you do then the firing pin will impact on the side of the chamber, deforming it. You will then need a chamber reamer to fix it (I have one, BTW) 3) If you have a regular Luger-style Ruger with the slanted grip, then Clark Custom makes a grip that "straightens" the angle out to pretty much the same angle as the 1911. (I have a spare one of those too, as well as a set of Volquartsen target style grips. I prefer the slant when shooting slow fire) 4) I've found the Ruger a great tool for mounting a red dot on and practicing watching the dot rise (calling the shots). Also great for sight allignment, trigger release etc. Not so great, naturally, for recoil management, but pretty good to get rid of recoil flinch. That said, I don't know of another gun for the money that more people have started shooting on. I've kept mine pretty much to practice the foregoing, and to introduce newbies to pistol shooting. For the latter use, it's pretty much unbeatable, IMO.
  12. Congrats Pat! I know you must be very happy. Well done on your acquisitin (and a new car too? times must be good right about now :-))
  13. Actually, I've been through an SDB, a Pro 1000 and a 650. Now investigating the 1050 and the bullet feed kit made by a third party (forgot who, temporarily, but it's advertised in the Front Sight mag). All have been exercises in relative frustration so far, since I'm now double-shifting at work and have very little time to reload in...
  14. Hey Detlef You're right. I've been at this game for just under six months, and already I have more than enough of these darned springs to fill a shoebox.. Yeah, it's an inexact science right now, but I'd venture to say that if there's a group with either the experience (you guys) or the willingness (us guys) to get this subject grappled with, it's this group. BUT I'm not asking for 100 shooters, just us BEst ones! I'll make a compendium and post it, like load data, if I get enogh replies.
  15. Can't get no satisfaction! Limcat 4" .355 barrel, 5-port on a Limcat STI with extended dust cover. The slide wouldn't lock back fully, and I wanted to install a Wilson Shock Buff, so I clipped the recoil spring to just where the slide lock will catch it (with the shock buff installed). Problem solved? Read on. Now the barrel is flopping around, i.e. won't go into full lock anymore and I can physically push the slide forward about 1/10", whereupon the barrel locks and stops moving. Solution? Stronger spring? Longer spring? Bought the gun used and so don't know the weight of the recoil spring in the gun at the moment. Have a whole slew of spare (linear) Wolff 1911 springs. What weight does anybody use? (124gr JHP with VV N350, 1.260" OAL at the moment, probably switching to 3N37/3N38 to get that fabled 3ft flame)
  16. I've read and heard of people that zero the dot at 50 yards and then shoot off (Kentucky windage) for closer distances, and then some that zero at 25 and do the same for both closer and further. I've also heard of people who zero in with a 4-MOA dot element and then switch back to the 8 or 10 for actual shooting. Pros and cons? Favourite methods for zeroing?
  17. Loading 38S with around 8gr of VV N350, moving up the power factor scale. Man is this a different proposition from 40S&W! I used to get 170PF from just 5 grains of VV N320 and a 180gr bullet. Now I'm running 124gr (not even 115gr) and up in the high 7's-low 8 grains of VV N350 and guess what, the powder's spilling from the shells as they index around. I have to put a finger on the top of the shell to hold the powder in as the shell indexes, might as well be loading a single stage, it's so slow... I know that the longer grain powders like N350 will compress and run okay as long as you don't load below minimum OAL (I'm only at 1.260-170"), but how to get around the spillage? Is the 1050 better in this respect, or do I have to switch to another powder to get it all in there and loading fast? How do you guys do it, I ask.. :-)
  18. Just a follow-up to this post, the reloading table I was looking for is in the MidwayUSA catalog. I've since gotten around the problem by monting a Dillon Strong Mount onto a piece of 3/4" hardwood and then clamping that piece of wood to a regular table, with a slip of that thin rubberized material (shelf liner) in between to protect the surface of the table. Works like a charm.
  19. Thanks guys. I noticed that 3N37 has a larger range of load for equivalent pressure tolerance (correct term? I'm referring to how much powder you can load before max. recommended tolerance is exceeded) than N350. Should I switch to 3N37 before I begin? I'm starting at around 6.6gr with the Berry's, BTW, way way under what you guys are starting with, and I'm going to Montana Gold JHP as well, since I now know about the plated/jacketed thing. Apparently the HPs have better jacketing at the rear of the bullet hence less leading??
  20. Thanks Pat. Well, we'll just have to start again, won't we? I'll be posting chrony results as soon as I measure em.
  21. Guys, this weekend I switched to a Limcat with a C More because I can now literally see more. Spent the weekend shooting slow fire precision (ISSF) and with the Olympic-style orthoptics I'm still grouping within an inch or three at 50 years offhand freehand, so it's not the sight picture or the trigger control, it's definitely the presbyopia and the eyes. I can focus at infinity, and I can focus on the front sight - if I take my glasses off, use bifocals or the orthoptics (rest focus set at 44" from the right eye). Transition time of focus from infinity to front sight is measurable in seconds, probably as many as three, depending on how close the front sight is. I was squinting like crazy on the Limited gun, trying to get a good sight picture, and it was either all A's, very very slow, or I'd miss the targets when I thought I hadn't. Now we'll see what happens. Yeah, I'm not going to make high divisions any time soon but at least I think I'll keep on shooting happier, because it's become a pleasure again rather than an increasing, frustrating pain in the iris. Now acquiring the dot with the weak hand, that's another story...
  22. Thanks guys for the input. Actually, I was a little ahead of myself. I only just got the gun this weekend, it's a Limcat with a standard 5-port (3up, 2 side) comp, and a 4" barrel. Winchester 38S+P brass, WSR primers, Berry's or Rainier 124ish jacketeds, VV350 powder. Start at 6.8???
  23. Chriss, I stand corrected. It's just that mine came from EGW in the original Lee red casing with instructions and everything. Since then I've checked the EGW die against a stock Lee one and you're absolutely right. We learn something new every day...
  24. The EGW die is .001" less in diameter than the SAAMI spec. It's a regular die that does go pretty far down the case, but not all the way. Instead of leaving a bell where the die ends it's a gradual taper. Of course, if you're using a case sizing gauge, anything oversized, tapered or not, will not pass muster. So EGW tries to work around that by undersizing (slightly) the entire case. The full length die goes all the way down the case, but is not undersized, i.e. it resizes to SAAMI spec. If you remove the primer punch pin and just use the die by itself on a single stage press, then it's possible to set the die to run up to/just past the case rim and get the whole thing. Of course, this means running a case-sizing pass on all your brass before it goes into your progressive press, but it's a lot cheaper than running it through a Case Pro. HTH
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