Focus

Leupold 6.5-20 X 50 30mm Tube you could also get a 4.5-14 and be ok also I would get the mill dot or TRM reticule, although the TRM has a small gap in the cross hairs which bothers me, Get the standard scope not the one that lights up, Leupold's version is worthless. These are solid scopes, I have 4 of them and use them TONS every year, had one rebuilt this last year, it only cost me shipping. Yeah there are better scopes, I have a night force also and it blows the doors off the Leupold but you're talking MO Money. If you know a dealer a new one will cost you about $900 or less shipped. Chad

I weigh everything I shoot in a bolt gun, with the new digital scales it saves HUGE lots of time... If you're loading the 300 Ultra Mag then you will be waiting while it dispenses the powder but a 223 or a 308 are not bad at all. If you want to eliminate the variable like another guy said, then weigh your charges. There are other little things I would ALWAYS do when loading cases for accurate bolt guns. 1. Only neck size after brass has been fire formed. 2. Turn the flash holes on new brass. 3. Keep primer pockets clean on reloaded brass. 4. Use a good set of dies like Redding Comp die. 5. Lube case necks when neck sizing. 6. Chaffer the outside and inside part of new brass necks. 7. Always use the same brand and number of primer. I’m sure there stuff missing that I’m spacing right now but that will give you a good idea, I don’t weigh cases or bullets, I just make sure they’re all clean and good to go. The biggest thing I have noticed about doing this stuff is it really cracks down on flyers. A rifles like a pistol, you shoot one enough and when the gun goes off you know if you pulled it or if it was good. Chad

Let us know what they say, and if that does fix the issue. If you're having stove pipes it could be your mags in that gun. Are they mags you built or custom mags you bought from a well known builder?

Like he said it's all personal preference, but I do like it grippy... Theres NO single right way to do anything in this sport, just remember that...

I wear the sharks as I haven't found anything better on the market today, they don't really ROLL on the heal for moving and shooting but I guess a simple orbital sander could fix that.... they will last you a year or a little more then you should replace them as they will wear down enough you will lose a little grip.

He gave away a brand new open gun at Area2 this year, looked like a nice gun... The gal that won it didn't even look that excited. maybe it was on then inside though

Buy the sick on sand paper and put that on over some over size grip panels if you have large hands and you're set. You can even buy VERY aggressive stuff at like HomeDepo and it works like a charm

Gotcha, I see that also, I'm thinking I need to post 4 more now so no one flips about me asking if anyone has a mag well.... lol

I see it now, thanks, I looked like 5 times and over looked it I guess. Thanks!

I did not see this section? or am I just missing it? I am looking for a Grahms tungsten mag well as he is tooling to make more but I am in need of one now. I know there are a lot of people that have these and this would be the place to look. But I'm not sure where to ask...

It would seem to me that the "Z" would HAVE to be slower as you're hand motion is coming to a complete stop 2 times. The "Snatch" or "Scoop" when practiced would have to be faster simply because less motion.

Well what ever the time may be those extra 10ths matter... Here are a few stages from the Man Of Steel 08 match I shot a few weeks ago, my second steel match ever using major IPSC loads..

Thank you guys for the info, I've been shooting some steel and noticed my draw is a little sluggish. I make up for it in IPSC only because I am very strong at a few other main points. To achieve what I want, I need to narrow this one down as I am not terrible but as I said I lack .35 to .25 on a draw if you're talking 1.0 on a target I'm drawing 1.35 or so at 10 yards with ALL A hits. If you don't think .30 is alot of time you're mistaken. It ALL adds up, if you can shave here and there and eliminate at LEAST 1 second on EVERY run you shoot you're going to tear up the competion in you're higher classes that don't.

What is the fastest way to "Draw" the gun? I have slow motion footage of myself drawing and it is to slow, I have talked to and watched some GMs shoot and some use a almost "Slap" technique and a sort of snatch motion instead of a firm grip by wrapping the hand around the gun and pressing down with a little force before pulling back up and drawing. If you're shooting 1.20 or less on your draws every time I want to know where your biggest time saver is, dot presentation or getting "to" and "drawing" the gun.. Thanks!

I had to check no as sometimes I bobble the grab but I shoot enough that I know at what range I can get away with what grip presentation. I don't do it very often but once in a while I do because of weird start positions or cold hands when it's 40 and below... I have shot 2/3 of a 50 round stage with no dot (forgot to turn it on at "make ready") and didn't have ONE miss, they were 5-10 yards and I was shotting as fast as I could pull the trigger. So it all comes with time, you will know when you hit and when you miss, I'm conscious of the dot I just don't have extreme focus on it.

2-3, here is how I do it for 9 Major... Load up 5 rounds of 5 loads then go chrono Load 20-30 of each that make major Put a 9Lb spring in and shoot them all doing an array of shootings like doubles and such (steal works well) PAY ATTENTION TO THE FEEL AND DOT Now pick the one I like load 50-100 rounds and go test 6-12 pound springs (a 9 is what most people use) doing double taps from the draw (look at the shot spreads) If you have done your homework and all is well you should have a flat shooting gun. It is easier to shoot a under sprung gun than an over sprung gun in my experience, if it is over sprung the slide hits to hard and ends up making the tip of the gun dip. If your grip is not correct then you will NOT have a flat shooting gun. These videos may help... http://www.oregonshooting.com/vids/spgrip1.wmv http://www.oregonshooting.com/vids/grip2.wmv

Is this the 15th of every month? I can't remember.... CM

well time was up to order more and i thought i might ask... i ordered a few nickle and will post what it does... CM

I have been shooting federal once fired brass with NO issues. Is there a certain manufacturer that is better than another? Would anyone recommend nickel in a 9mm Major? I know nickel is thicker and harder, therefore it handles pressure better, maybe up your velocity without using more powder? Thanks! CM

I think I am going to use an idea many ISHMA shooters use. Sight my gun in at a certain distance say 10 yards then take some pictures of targets and shrink them to the size of luggage tags, then shoot clear out to say 60 yards and mark where I need to hold to hit the center A at say 25 35 45 60 yards. Go laminate them, if you have any questions about distances you can just walk them out and check your cards.... I can't ever remember on the money how high I need to hold on those LONG range classifiers and that has cost me a match or two...

When will the new "08" classifiers be on the tool?

My insight. I want to shoot the thing and enjoy it. I fought with mags for ever, swearing never to spend $120 on a single magazine yet spending thousands on guns only to have them jam all the time. If I were you save a few hundred bucks, call grams and have him work you over a few mags and use those. I have a set I bought from him for my open gun years ago and have NEVER had ONE jam. I can't count how many times I've beat people simply because my equipment works and theirs dosen't. People say replace springs evey so often, I have the same springs in my big sticks that came with them years ago. Beyond that if you want to save a few bucks try just replacing the spring, If that dosen't work then try replacing the follower possible the base pad also. Another thing to watch out for is used mags. I have bought and sold so many I can tell you some people try and "alter" their own mags and end up doing more harm than good. So watch out for that. Another crutial error would be leaving your mags loaded for weeks on end while waiting for the next match, I leave mine loaded between stages but ALWAYS unload them after the match..

If price won the match then you would see some spendy guns… Fortunately, Price does NOT win the match. Would I prefer my Dawson Open gun to a glock open gun? Of course, the thing shoots and functions SO much smoother, it’s feels more solid in my hand than a Glock. If you laid down a limited Gock and a limited S_I (say the price was the same) I’m willing to bet people would take the S_I over the Glock? Me personally, I would shoot a S_I any day over the Glock. Some say it would be personal preference others would say ones better then the other. I’ll state a few simple things I seem to like more about the S_I than the Glock. The S_I has a bigger grip and since I have bigger hands I feel it fits my hands better. (yeah its true what they say about hand size) Yes grip does play a crucial role in how you and the gun handle recoil but I do feel that my S_I handles it better than a Glock especially in a 40 loaded Major. The next thing is the grip angle, I am very familiar with the 1911 grip angle and do not want to change that. Would I shoot an XD against a Glock, yeah I might. I like the trigger more in a S_I when compared to a Glock. I would have to use one of my favorite lines from one of the greatest movies of all time, Pulp Fiction. Now this is a XD, from Mexico. Very good stuff. This is a Glock different, but equally good. And this is an S_I from the Hartz Mountains of Germany. Now the first two are the same, forty-five an ounce -- those are friend prices -- but this one... (pointing to the S_I) ...this one's a little more expensive. It's fifty-five. But when you shoot it, you'll know where that extra money went. Nothing wrong with the first two. They’re real, real, real, good sh*t. But this one's a f*ckin' madman. Yeah I’d take the Pepsi challenge any day of the week with the XD or Glock but hey the S_I is a Madman. Again though, it’s a matter of opinion. For classes, If you’re talking limited Yeah you’ll see a few Glocks and fewer as you move up the score sheet. If you’re talking Open, I can’t think of a Match winner or even top 5 in a big area match that ever shot an Open Glock. I would have to agree 130% with the statement that the shooter most times can make the biggest difference not the gun. I was at a large match that has become a “thing” to win in our area, It’s a certain make of gun only type of match. A GM open shooter bought a gun from one of my family members the week prior to the match and ran 50 rounds though it then barrowed Mags to shoot the match that next week. He ended up winning the match with a gun he has never shot and a class he had not shot in over a decade. Its all where you want to spend your money. You're starting to ask already about a S_T and spending thousands of dollars yet saying you're "dreaming of getting out of D class" In retro spect I could have saved myself thousands of dollars and years of headache (although I still shoot for fun as always and haven't ever burned out in 8 years) If I would have known what my best ROI (Return On Investment) would have been with my time and money, I for sure would have done things differently. Say you’re shooting limited class and this is your first match. A reasonable goal would be to reach high B class in a years time if you have NO prior experience with a hand gun and you put your dues in. You want it even quicker? Shoot with the people that are winning your division and pay attention to what they do. Wait you want it even faster yet? Not only shoot with the Division winner but ask if they mind if you record them. Now compare your stages to theirs after every match. But you say you want it even faster? Well take some of that money you saved from buying a glock and spend it on a lesson or two from a known GM, this would not be money well spent until you have mastered all of the fundamentals like not thinking about what to do when they say “load and make ready”. Better yet get familiar with the commands then buy Brains book and study it again then read it again. Everyone at the range was always trying to be helpful in giving the new guy at the time (me) tips. Again in retrospect I should have sought after watching and learning from the guys that were winning and NOT the guys that liked to talk alot and came in middle of the pack. If you are staggered about paying $3,000 for a gun to do something you really enjoy then you should step back out of the box and reassess yourself. How much were those over size rims on your new car? How about the over size tires to put on those rims? Better yet, how much depreciation did you lose on your new car right off the lot? Or how about the new big screen TV in the living room? Or wait how about that tropical vacation you took last month? I’ve had people say they watch the TV more than they would shoot the gun but in that aspect what’s the gun worth against any of those prior things when you go to sell them? Money won’t make you a good shooter but if spent right it sure will help. Maybe I went a little off course with this but hey flame away… Just my 2 Cents…

Match fee $17, Gas to go to a match $35, Food for the day $15, Time spent loading and prepping for the match 2 hours? Time spent in practice 3 hours a week? Pay scale at work $22 an hour. Total cost for the match $177 + bullets primers and pouder Brass cost on a 150 round 38 super lost brass match $15 Brass cost on a 150 round 9mm lost brass match $6 I think you should have done the math….

People use motor oil, is synthetic better than regular? I'll buy the hype I guess and try some slide glide, I just can't see changing what works. I can't count the number of times I see others guns puke due to ill lubricated mags or guns, at a D or C level, (maybe even B for that matter) you can afford a few hiccups but when you're A or higher it just flat has to run. CM