Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

JP-5 reviews/input


Recommended Posts

So I’ve been using all my old MPX ammo which is 115fmj @ 140pf. I put a 70 locker in my JP5 and it feels pretty good I guess. That’s such a subjective thing is how it feels…. I tried my CO 130pf 147s with 80 locker and it felt good but sluggish. Is it really sluggish?  Idk. I’ve always preferred the quick snap recoil impulse 
 

I did load up some 115s with HS6 and potentially may try some N350. I have major pf powders so I might as well try them.  I did the same with my MPX so might as well with this. At some point I plan on doing a review between the 2 platforms. 

Link to comment
  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

19 hours ago, BartCarter said:

I wonder when they changed that.  Mine came with two weights.  It was shipped 9-22-2022.

 

No no no. I very sorry for not being more clear. Mine also has two weights but only one has a small 45. Just wanted to throw that out there. It’s small enough that it might not be noticeable. Sorry for the confusion. 

Link to comment

I was shooting my JP5 last Sunday with 115grn Blazer Brass and the 60* cam.  I don't think it was fully cycling the ammunition.  This was the first time I had the issue with this brand, so it might be a inconsistent lot?

 

 

Edited by Stefan77
Link to comment
36 minutes ago, Stefan77 said:

I was shooting my JP5 last Sunday with 115grn Blazer Brass and the 60* cam.  I don't think it was fully cycling the ammunition.  This was the first time I had the issue with this brand, so it might be a inconsistent lot?

 

 

 

Blazer Brass 115 is on the softer power factor side...you should be using a 70 or even the 80 imo

Link to comment
47 minutes ago, Stefan77 said:

I was shooting my JP5 last Sunday with 115grn Blazer Brass and the 60* cam.  I don't think it was fully cycling the ammunition.  This was the first time I had the issue with this brand, so it might be a inconsistent lot?

 

 

Again, unless you're running Duty or very spicy NATO spec ammo, the 60 degree lock piece is overkill. 

The lock pieces are not meant to get you to the ragged edge of reliability. The JP-5 is already so much softer than any other PCC that there's no need. Rather, they are meant to be a quick way to tune the gun. A good rule of thumb is the brass should eject 3-5 feet from the shooter. If it dribbles out and lands in your pocket, go up a lock piece. 

Similar to how a 223 gas system is tuned, one does not close the gas block so the rifle barely cycles only pulling a round out of the mag but not locking the bolt on an empty follower. Rather, the gas block is opened and tuned to lock back and complete a full stroke with additional adjustment of the gas block for the intended level of dirty and use. 

Another way of looking at this would be Steel Challenge guys running 95 grain bullets at the minimum velocity to cycle. They sure are fun until anything at all goes wrong. Then there's not enough energy to overcome the dirt, debris, marginal brass or whatever. 

Give yourself a wider operating window than the minimum. 

Link to comment

I agree, I just felt it was worth mentioning since I have ran it before without issue.

I usually play with Federal PCC 130grn Syntech and Eley 115grn PCC ammo with the 60*.  I did have an issue with the 130grn when I canted the rifle around a barrier with ejection port facing up and you can guess what happened.

 

I am just curious and wonder if lowering the buffer spring would let me tune it a bit more while running the lower PF ammo with the 60* cam??

 

This is mostly experimentation/exploration for me.  I am having a lot of fun playing around with this PCC and running it.

Edited by Stefan77
Link to comment
2 hours ago, Darqusoull13 said:

Again, unless you're running Duty or very spicy NATO spec ammo, the 60 degree lock piece is overkill. 

The lock pieces are not meant to get you to the ragged edge of reliability. The JP-5 is already so much softer than any other PCC that there's no need. Rather, they are meant to be a quick way to tune the gun. A good rule of thumb is the brass should eject 3-5 feet from the shooter. If it dribbles out and lands in your pocket, go up a lock piece. 

Similar to how a 223 gas system is tuned, one does not close the gas block so the rifle barely cycles only pulling a round out of the mag but not locking the bolt on an empty follower. Rather, the gas block is opened and tuned to lock back and complete a full stroke with additional adjustment of the gas block for the intended level of dirty and use. 

Another way of looking at this would be Steel Challenge guys running 95 grain bullets at the minimum velocity to cycle. They sure are fun until anything at all goes wrong. Then there's not enough energy to overcome the dirt, debris, marginal brass or whatever. 

Give yourself a wider operating window than the minimum. 

 

This warrants being a sticky IMO.

Link to comment
On 3/6/2023 at 10:43 PM, Bdh821 said:

 

I did load up some 115s with HS6 and potentially may try some N350. I have major pf powders so I might as well try them.  I did the same with my MPX so might as well with this. At some point I plan on doing a review between the 2 platforms. 

 

I chrono'ed HS6 ammo that was ~131pf.  I first thought, wow this is different.  Then I shot a few practice drills with it and realized I didn't like it.  I'm probably gonna stick to sport pistol or N320 with 115s or 124s.  

Link to comment
29 minutes ago, 42ATK said:

Is there any way to purchase the upper, lower, BCG, and buffer system without the rest of the gun? I’d rather use a Brekke Customs muzzle device on a lighter barrel and a lighter handguard 

Short answer is no its not. The gun is plenty light with a handguard swap anyway. 

Link to comment
Just now, Z-Chaos-Factor said:

Short answer is no its not. The gun is plenty light with a handguard swap anyway. 

Thank you for the answer. I was thinking of switching to a Smoke Composites Handguard but am wondering if it’s really worth close to $4k when everything is said and done with the gun. I appreciate the time!

Link to comment
5 minutes ago, Bdh821 said:

I have switched back to an 80 locker and put in the AR10 red/blue spring. I had the red/yellow spring in but had a malf. Coulda been cuz I switched to JHPs to test. 

Shooting 115s @ ~135pf

Link to comment

Are coated bullets good for shooting out of the JP-5 or not? 

 

I read that some people using them in custom loads and shooting 130gr Federal Syntech but I'm worried about the plastic coating eroding before it exits the barrel and lead building up inside.

 

 

Edited by telligentgunner
Link to comment
On 3/21/2023 at 12:06 PM, telligentgunner said:

Are coated bullets good for shooting out of the JP-5 or not? 

 

I read that some people using them in custom loads and shooting 130gr Federal Syntech but I'm worried about the plastic coating eroding before it exits the barrel and lead building up inside.

 

 

I stopped shooting coated (blue bullets) in mine since I ended up spending way too much time chiseling out my comp (steel challenge version).

Link to comment
55 minutes ago, EBEnthusiast said:

I stopped shooting coated (blue bullets) in mine since I ended up spending way too much time chiseling out my comp (steel challenge version).

^ this. I stopped using coated bullets and use Everglades plated V2 115s. They’re on sale right now!

Link to comment
Just now, OldRunner said:

Fed Syntech?

 

I have not ran it, but it is a coated bullet so I imagine you will get some.  From my understanding they use Sport Pistol powder in that ammo, so it does not burn as hot as say something like Tite Group.  Therefore, it is possible the build up may not be as quick.  I get build up using FMJ bullets, so I cannot imagine you get zero build up using any type of coated bullet.  

 

If you want a budget bullet for PCC use Plated.  I have used Everglades with pretty good accuracy and success.  Plated are the way to go if you do not want to spend the funds on JHP.

 

 

Link to comment

That got me thinking, the first time I shot my JP5 I shot BB, S&B and JHP reloads. When I cleaned it I had to scrape off a lot of fouling in the comp. I thought maybe it was powder but now I wonder if it was melted lead from the exposed lead bases on the S&B. The next time I shot it was only JHP reloads and there wasn't any of that, just like carbon like I get from my open guns.

Link to comment
3 hours ago, sharko said:

That got me thinking, the first time I shot my JP5 I shot BB, S&B and JHP reloads. When I cleaned it I had to scrape off a lot of fouling in the comp. I thought maybe it was powder but now I wonder if it was melted lead from the exposed lead bases on the S&B. The next time I shot it was only JHP reloads and there wasn't any of that, just like carbon like I get from my open guns.

I find the BB to be a bit dirty but it shoots pretty good.  I think some people have said the same about S&B.  

Link to comment
8 hours ago, sharko said:

I wonder if it was melted lead from the exposed lead bases on the S&B.

 

I get the same when shooting FMJ 124 gr on the comps of my GMR15 and JP5.  I believe it to be more lead than carbon due to the expose both of the FMJ.  If I shoot coated it leads up way faster.  

 

I am moving back to JHP to prevent any buildup.   The PD V2 JHP are pretty sweet.  

 

 

 

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...