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Processing brass question?


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I normally sit down and decap my brass before throwing them in the wet tumbler. Are drying they get a good look over and get ready for priming. Usually do my priming on the couch or sitting out back. Then I load them up and put them away.

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Usually inspect head stamps sort out (imi fm junk) decap,  Swage 1x Winchester or N/T, then wash a batch(500 9mm/ 400 45 ) in a little dawn or tide, let dry overnight,  tumble in corn cob media with nufinish polish for couple hours. Washing extends media life. The clear plastic peanut containers work great for storage. A light dusting with one shot in cardboard box and your ready to load.

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4 hours ago, 99mpower said:

why would you sort 9mm by headstamp? Unless you run an open Glock

Several reasons. More consistent OAL hence more consistent PF, weeding out junk brass such as stepped or crimped, etc. 

 Do a search and reap the rewards

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41 minutes ago, Sarge said:

Several reasons. More consistent OAL hence more consistent PF, weeding out junk brass such as stepped or crimped, etc. 

 Do a search and reap the rewards

I think he was on a race to 50 as he posted on nearly everything within 30 minutes and then posted a mark 7.

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2 hours ago, Sarge said:

Several reasons. More consistent OAL hence more consistent PF, weeding out junk brass such as stepped or crimped, etc. 

 Do a search and reap the rewards

 

i have... as long as you remove the stepped stuff, and process on a 1050/1100/2000, all the stuff gets swaged anyways. Judge die from Mojo precision, and youre good to go. Just processed 20k pcs myself actually

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  • 2 weeks later...

Before I automated everything, I would clean the dirty range brass for about 30 minutes in walnut and then rollsize on a CasePro. Brass went back in the tumbler for 4 hours and then to load. 

 

Since automating both the loading and roll sizing, I have found things go smoother if the brass is pre-processed. 

 

So now, after a quick clean, they get run through the Ammobot to sort out any non-conforming brass. It makes a huge difference in the way the Case Pro runs. The automated Case Pro doesn't like the stray 40 or 380 case.  It also makes a difference in the way they load. Much smoother. 

 

I've never trimmed pistol brass. Not sure how I would if I wanted to. .

 

Never sorted once fired but have used new for 9 major. 

 

 

 

 

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On 5/21/2020 at 3:20 PM, 99mpower said:

 

i have... as long as you remove the stepped stuff, and process on a 1050/1100/2000, all the stuff gets swaged anyways. Judge die from Mojo precision, and youre good to go. Just processed 20k pcs myself actually

 

How are you removing the stepped brass?

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On 5/31/2020 at 9:38 PM, warpspeed said:

 

How are you removing the stepped brass?

 

mojoprecision.com   Judge die... its a sensor/die for Mark 7 and Ammobot. Trips the machine when it recognizes stepped brass, and now they even have one to get the MINOR stepped brass specifically for 9mm

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Pick brass up off ground. Throw in dry tumbler of 50/50 corncob and walnut for 3 hours. Separate brass from media. Throw in case feeder after getting a little lube.

 

Nothing more or less.

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On 5/10/2020 at 5:25 AM, stick said:

If you are wet tumbling the brass, you definitely want to de-prime first to ensure you don't have any water in between the primer and the flash hole

 

I've reloaded thousands and thousands of pistol cartridges starting with wet tumbling fired brass without depriming and have never, ever had a single failure to fire that wasn't caused by forgetting to add powder.

 

I dry all my wet tumbled cases in a toaster over at 240 F for 30 min.  100% guaranteed to dry everything, even inside the primer pocket with the spent primer in place.

 

Edited by SGT_Schultz
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  • 2 weeks later...

While clean is good enough, and the gun and the target don't care, I admit I like shiny brass, at least on the exterior where I can see it. To that end I wet tumble my brass in citric acid and car wash and wax, primers in (because I didn't have the universal decapping die or a press to fit it, don't use the pins because they're a pain, and don't care if the case interiors and the primer pockets are new case clean) and air dry in the sun. I do let the brass stay out in the sun for several hours before I store it. Now that I have the universal de capper and a Lee APP, I may decap just to get the brass to dry faster.

 

So far I've had no problems with corroded in primers with brass that's been stored for a year. With the car wax they're staying more shiny than dry media tumbled brass.

 

As best I can tell, my CasePro doesn't do much for extractor rims or primer pockets, though I've read claims that it helps both.

 

Like Sarge, I sort by headstamp. If nothing else, the ES and SD of ten shot strings drop, even if I can't shoot well enough to see an accuracy difference or shoot in a discipline where my score will change because of it.

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