Salsantini Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 I've had an Agency Arms FSS trigger kit in my 5" M&P pro for a while. The trigger kit is amazing. The issue is that it does not always fire. I've played with the adjustment of the trigger loop. In my pistol when the trigger is fully pressed to the rear it won't quite push up the striker block completely. It fires most of the time , but it is not consistent. I've adjusted the loop to the rear most point for the sear to still release. Tried putting the original striker block back in since it engages earlier. Still the same issue. Time to go back to the standard trigger with the Apex sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superslowmo Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 Stock trigger and APEX CAEK is truly what works for me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furrly Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 Apex trigger kits have worked great for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattmann Posted February 7, 2019 Share Posted February 7, 2019 Apex flat faced trigger with internals is 100% for me. Shoots incredible on my m&p proSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salsantini Posted February 8, 2019 Author Share Posted February 8, 2019 19 hours ago, mattmann said: Apex flat faced trigger with internals is 100% for me. Shoots incredible on my m&p pro Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The Agency kit uses the Apex FSS sear internals with Agency's trigger. I am disappointed this didn't work in my pistol. By far this is the best set up for the M&P pistol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete627 Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) On 2/8/2019 at 9:40 AM, Salsantini said: The Agency kit uses the Apex FSS sear internals with Agency's trigger. I am disappointed this didn't work in my pistol. By far this is the best set up for the M&P pistol. That's crazy ... Do you think the little spike/bump on the arm (that pushes on the striker block) has been polished or damaged to the point where it has gotten too short ... or ... the tip (on the rear of the arm) that guides it has gotten bent?? Edit: New trigger bars are only $14!! Edited February 9, 2019 by pete627 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salsantini Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 (edited) On 2/9/2019 at 1:36 PM, pete627 said: That's crazy ... Do you think the little spike/bump on the arm (that pushes on the striker block) has been polished or damaged to the point where it has gotten too short ... or ... the tip (on the rear of the arm) that guides it has gotten bent?? Edit: New trigger bars are only $14!! I replaced the trigger bar with a new one. The tip is straight and I did not polish any material off of this trigger bar. The limiting factor Is the Agency trigger. It is at its most rearward position and the striker block is not fully depressed. Edited February 11, 2019 by Salsantini Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 There are couple of different M&P trigger bars sold by S&W - they are marked with an alphabetic character (H or S). They do seem to have slightly different profiles, so you may find one works better than another. They are available from Brownells: https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/trigger-parts/triggers/m-p-trigger-bar-assembly-h--prod82853.aspx https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/trigger-parts/triggers/trigger-bar-assembly-s--prod23200.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salsantini Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 24 minutes ago, StealthyBlagga said: There are couple of different M&P trigger bars sold by S&W - they are marked with an alphabetic character (H or S). They do seem to have slightly different profiles, so you may find one works better than another. They are available from Brownells: https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/trigger-parts/triggers/m-p-trigger-bar-assembly-h--prod82853.aspx https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/trigger-parts/triggers/trigger-bar-assembly-s--prod23200.aspx Didn't think of that! I do Have an H bar in the pistol. The original bar the pistol came with has no Markings. I found an extra bar in my stash Marked S. I will try the S marked one an see how that works. Have you ever seen a bar unmarked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete627 Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 Check out this thread!! Note the striker replacement (last post) ... https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/237374-trigger-bar-differences/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salsantini Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 On 2/10/2019 at 5:19 PM, pete627 said: Check out this thread!! Note the striker replacement (last post) ... https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/237374-trigger-bar-differences/ I had also replace the striker with a new striker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salsantini Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 On 2/10/2019 at 5:05 PM, Salsantini said: Didn't think of that! I do Have an H bar in the pistol. The original bar the pistol came with has no Markings. I found an extra bar in my stash Marked S. I will try the S marked one an see how that works. Have you ever seen a bar unmarked? Ok, Update on this issue. I have all three types of trigger bars. Unmarked, S, and H. I tried all three and ended with the same result. At the point the striker releases the striker block in not fully depressed and when the striker releases the forward movement of the striker pushes up the striker block. This is what is causing the inconsistent firing. I completely switched out the FSS and trigger with a stock trigger and regular Apex sear and the striker block is fully compressed before the striker releases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete627 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 3 minutes ago, Salsantini said: I had also replace the striker with a new striker. Well ... that's pretty much "it" then ... I would just make sure it is unloaded and give it to your dog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hlpressley Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 On 2/7/2019 at 1:21 PM, superslowmo said: Stock trigger and APEX CAEK is truly what works for me.... Always my favorite setup as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salsantini Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 3 hours ago, pete627 said: Well ... that's pretty much "it" then ... I would just make sure it is unloaded and give it to your dog. Hey Rex I have a new chew toy for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjones6686 Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 My boss recently had this same issue. Ended up being the hole for the pin that attaches the trigger to the trigger bar was drilled in the incorrect spot. Bought another trigger and changed it out. Fixed his problem and hasnt had another issue with his M&P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salsantini Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 Ok. I ordered a new trigger from Apex. Lets see if this makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salsantini Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 So I finally got around to installing the Apex FSS trigger in place of the Agency trigger. Same result as I had with the Agency trigger. I set the trigger bar loop as far back as possible so it did not release the sear. Then I opened it up so it was just releasing the sear at the most rearward travel. The striker block does not fully depress. Went back to a Apex standard sear with the factory trigger. No issue. The striker block fully depresses with this setup. I guess my pistol is at the far end of the M&P tolerance levels. Ok with the standard sear. Not with the FSS sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhp147 Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 (edited) Is it worth calling Apex? I can't think but that they'd help since you are 100% Apex now. I've seen threads where they have helped folks with guns with the "generous" tolerances M&Ps often......feature. Edited November 25, 2019 by sheepdog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Remove material from the front of the ramp on the sear, so that the trigger has to move further to the rear before the striker is released. Simple modification which will give the travel needed for the striker block to be fully depressed into the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salsantini Posted November 25, 2019 Author Share Posted November 25, 2019 (edited) 7 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said: Remove material from the front of the ramp on the sear, so that the trigger has to move further to the rear before the striker is released. Simple modification which will give the travel needed for the striker block to be fully depressed into the slide. The Trigger was already at its most rearward position pressed up against the frame. At this point removing material from the sear won't make a difference. If the trigger allowed for more movement this would work. But short of taking material off of the trigger I don't see this as an option. Edited November 25, 2019 by Salsantini Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteDingo Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 You'd need a lathe to do it correctly, but you could cut the striker block so it is slightly further down at rest, and is engaged sooner by the trigger bar. I've turned a couple that way; it's a little tedious, but doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, WhiteDingo said: You'd need a lathe to do it correctly, but you could cut the striker block so it is slightly further down at rest, and is engaged sooner by the trigger bar. I've turned a couple that way; it's a little tedious, but doable. much easier to take out trigger bar, remove some material from bottom end of candy cane "slope" so candy cane can be closed further than it currently is. Same result as removing material from sear, namely delaying contact with sear until striker safety block is lifted more, hopefully. Mark Edited December 5, 2019 by mpom spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteDingo Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 6 hours ago, mpom said: much easier to take out trigger bar, remove some material from bottom end of candy cane "slope" so candy cane can be closed further than it currently is. Same result as removing material from sear, namely delaying contact with sear until striker safety block is lifted more, hopefully. Mark Except his trigger is already bottomed out on the frame, so closing the loop any further will prevent the gun from going off at all, unless I mis-read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 3 hours ago, WhiteDingo said: Except his trigger is already bottomed out on the frame, so closing the loop any further will prevent the gun from going off at all, unless I mis-read. No, I missed that part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now