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WhiteDingo

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Everything posted by WhiteDingo

  1. Are you anticipating modification to the holster to clear the optic and mount?
  2. Cut the rear dovetail to a flat pocket and solder/braze in a Bo-Mar style base, or something like the Wilson no dovetail sight https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Lo-Mount-Adjustable-Rear-Sight-Standard-Blade/productinfo/428W/
  3. I'm curious if their grip texture is actually effective at all; I feel like there's a ton of alternatives that would be significantly more grip than the small dimples with lots of space between. Definitely curious to see what you think
  4. WhiteDingo

    Production legal?

    So, basically, you had the bushing installed. I've seen responses from at least one AD on here that they wouldn't even question it at a match.
  5. I bet there's still some weight to be lost in the slide under the red dot plate.
  6. Just saw one come in recently at a local store; I was told they waited a while for it to arrive, 8+ months
  7. I have yet to see it listed there. The first batch they got in was only 10 pistols, I think. They posted on social media that they had some in stock at one point, but I don't think they have any standing inventory yet.
  8. I did not lose any round count in the mags, but seating the last round became slightly more stiff, because you remove some room from the rounds stacking laterally. I adjusted until the top cartridge in the magazine was directly supported underneath, with multiple cartridges in the magazine. There are threads I used for reference: (Jim Anglin's post in the last thread was a godsend) Here's a thread on the control/transition rib on Czechmate mags, which have a similar issue:
  9. If you insert the just magazine tube, does the catch protrude into the tube when locked? I have not experienced that phenomenon. I use two round brass rods in the control ribs and squeeze with a bench vise. The body springs back a bit, so you'll likely need to try it a couple times to get the adjustment correct.
  10. I ended up having to compress the control ribs on the mags to feed on the 9mm case; might be worth exploring how the rounds stack at the transition, even with the SC
  11. Lok now makes grips for the standard large frame guns, you just have to select the "long" length
  12. I finally had a chance to measure the TF extension. With the "hump" removed in the back, the interior measures 1.215" front to back, roughly. It can be opened up to about 1.290-1.300" before I'd start to be concerned about wall thickness near the locking screw.
  13. The FP lifter doesn't prevent the hammer from dropping, only the firing pin from moving forward. So if the hammer is not dropping, the lifter is only incidental, not a cause. Do you have an overtravel adjustment on the trigger that is perhaps set too long?
  14. Except his trigger is already bottomed out on the frame, so closing the loop any further will prevent the gun from going off at all, unless I mis-read.
  15. You'd need a lathe to do it correctly, but you could cut the striker block so it is slightly further down at rest, and is engaged sooner by the trigger bar. I've turned a couple that way; it's a little tedious, but doable.
  16. Are the pre-travel tabs on the trigger bar adjusted out? Too little pre-travel will not allow grip safety function, as the trigger bar isn't coming far enough forward to allow the safety to reset. Do you have full travel on the grip safety outward?
  17. It is pitted under that rust more than likely, but could still shoot very well. If you're shooting plated or jacketed bullets, jacket material will help fill in the pits as you shoot. I've seen rifle barrels come back from much worse and still shoot fine. It's not like you really need to worry about throat erosion for a while, either.
  18. I'm using the Arredondo in a couple of mags, and Grams in the others. I haven't forgotten to measure that extension, I apologise for it takinga few days. The in laws are currently in town... Joy.
  19. I'm betting it's the aftermarket Gun Candy additive to Cerakote clear, it gets sprayed over a black base coat. I've not had great results with that at all. It is much pickier to spray with the H series clear, the manufacturer even recommended just using the C series, which sort of ruins the point. It may just be the pictures, but that flaking appears to have a base coat underneath, which is on par with my experience with the Gun Candy. The top layer doesn't adhere as well to the base layer as you would find when doing correctly applied multiple layer Cerakote without the additive. For decorative applications, the Gun Candy goes over great.
  20. Maybe 16. Something with a wider body magazine will be much more suited to the .40. You might look in to a Tanfoglio Limited Custom, even second hand, if the TSOs are out of the budget. Alternately, the P09 has excellent capacity and is inexpensive, but they're very light for a limited gun.
  21. You could fit a new top end on the gun, but it won't be a Shadow 2 slide. A TS slide assembly can be made to fit if you want to keep the frame. The recoil spring tunnel on the TS slide would have to be thinned and blended, or the frame opened up. A 75 SA slide in .40 could work as well. You're going to be limited on capacity with the 75 pattern mags though, so take that into consideration.
  22. Let me measure the clearance in the back of the extension, but it will definitely need modified for that OAL. There should be enough wall thickness before the screw to open up the pocket, but I'll double check.
  23. This is basically what I am doing for 170s for my Caspian. I had a couple of the mags with the Cape style base pad, modified the TF extension to not hit the frame, modified for OAL. Here's a thread on the process from my testing.
  24. It appears that your SA let off and DA let off are in almost identical spots. I would recommend adjusting the disconnector to allow for DA let off slightly sooner. The underside of the wing on the disconnector needs to be massaged slightly for an earlier let off. Not an uncommon adjustment when installing that hammer and a short reset disconnector. I've seen it less often with the CGW hammers, but sometimes there as well.
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