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WhiteDingo

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About WhiteDingo

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 09/29/1988

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Williamsport, PA
  • Interests
    USPSA, IDPA, 3 GUN
  • Real Name
    Thomas Richardson

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  1. I bet there's still some weight to be lost in the slide under the red dot plate.
  2. Just saw one come in recently at a local store; I was told they waited a while for it to arrive, 8+ months
  3. I have yet to see it listed there. The first batch they got in was only 10 pistols, I think. They posted on social media that they had some in stock at one point, but I don't think they have any standing inventory yet.
  4. I did not lose any round count in the mags, but seating the last round became slightly more stiff, because you remove some room from the rounds stacking laterally. I adjusted until the top cartridge in the magazine was directly supported underneath, with multiple cartridges in the magazine. There are threads I used for reference: (Jim Anglin's post in the last thread was a godsend) Here's a thread on the control/transition rib on Czechmate mags, which have a similar issue:
  5. If you insert the just magazine tube, does the catch protrude into the tube when locked? I have not experienced that phenomenon. I use two round brass rods in the control ribs and squeeze with a bench vise. The body springs back a bit, so you'll likely need to try it a couple times to get the adjustment correct.
  6. I ended up having to compress the control ribs on the mags to feed on the 9mm case; might be worth exploring how the rounds stack at the transition, even with the SC
  7. Lok now makes grips for the standard large frame guns, you just have to select the "long" length
  8. I finally had a chance to measure the TF extension. With the "hump" removed in the back, the interior measures 1.215" front to back, roughly. It can be opened up to about 1.290-1.300" before I'd start to be concerned about wall thickness near the locking screw.
  9. The FP lifter doesn't prevent the hammer from dropping, only the firing pin from moving forward. So if the hammer is not dropping, the lifter is only incidental, not a cause. Do you have an overtravel adjustment on the trigger that is perhaps set too long?
  10. Except his trigger is already bottomed out on the frame, so closing the loop any further will prevent the gun from going off at all, unless I mis-read.
  11. You'd need a lathe to do it correctly, but you could cut the striker block so it is slightly further down at rest, and is engaged sooner by the trigger bar. I've turned a couple that way; it's a little tedious, but doable.
  12. Are the pre-travel tabs on the trigger bar adjusted out? Too little pre-travel will not allow grip safety function, as the trigger bar isn't coming far enough forward to allow the safety to reset. Do you have full travel on the grip safety outward?
  13. It is pitted under that rust more than likely, but could still shoot very well. If you're shooting plated or jacketed bullets, jacket material will help fill in the pits as you shoot. I've seen rifle barrels come back from much worse and still shoot fine. It's not like you really need to worry about throat erosion for a while, either.
  14. I'm using the Arredondo in a couple of mags, and Grams in the others. I haven't forgotten to measure that extension, I apologise for it takinga few days. The in laws are currently in town... Joy.
  15. I'm betting it's the aftermarket Gun Candy additive to Cerakote clear, it gets sprayed over a black base coat. I've not had great results with that at all. It is much pickier to spray with the H series clear, the manufacturer even recommended just using the C series, which sort of ruins the point. It may just be the pictures, but that flaking appears to have a base coat underneath, which is on par with my experience with the Gun Candy. The top layer doesn't adhere as well to the base layer as you would find when doing correctly applied multiple layer Cerakote without the additive. For decorative applications, the Gun Candy goes over great.
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