boo radley Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 Has anyone else had a problem with light primer strikes, and reloads with Winchester small pistol primers? I'm not complaining -- easy enough to replace the reduced-strength spring with the OEM one -- but I started getting a rash of light strikes. Since this hadn't occured earlier, I'm wondering if I have a batch of particularly hard primers, or they weren't quite seated deeply enough? I've cleaned that channel that the striker assembly fits in.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iainmcphersn Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 Has anyone else had a problem with light primer strikes, and reloads with Winchester small pistol primers?I'm not complaining -- easy enough to replace the reduced-strength spring with the OEM one -- but I started getting a rash of light strikes. Since this hadn't occured earlier, I'm wondering if I have a batch of particularly hard primers, or they weren't quite seated deeply enough? I've cleaned that channel that the striker assembly fits in.... I had the same issue and it turned out to be a damaged channel liner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrd Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 Has anyone else had a problem with light primer strikes, and reloads with Winchester small pistol primers?I'm not complaining -- easy enough to replace the reduced-strength spring with the OEM one -- but I started getting a rash of light strikes. Since this hadn't occured earlier, I'm wondering if I have a batch of particularly hard primers, or they weren't quite seated deeply enough? I've cleaned that channel that the striker assembly fits in.... I use Win. small RIFLE primers in my minor 40 loads with a RS drop in kit with 100% reliability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boo radley Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 Hmm...I hear ya' Blackbird. The thing is, I have a couple thousand rounds loaded already with WSP primers, and they've worked fine in the past.... The suggestion to check the channel liner is an interesting one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay1 Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 I'm trying to learn something here, but how would you damage the channel liner? Did you take the liner out to have the slide hard chromed then replace it and that's how it became damaged? How else would it happen? Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 Worried about the lighter striker spring?? Lighten the striker: make some longitutional cuts and reduce the back(the non engagement surface) of the striker arm by 1/2. Also the 45 degree cut on the left side of the striker arm(which you should have already done) makes the striker lighter. I use a cut down OEM spring with a lightened striker and it's 100% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay1 Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 I was just having this conversation with someone. The use of the reduced stiker spring by Wolf - 4 pound spring is recomended for use with the stock striker. If the reduced spring is used with a Ti striker the lower mass with the reduced striker does NOT give reliable ignition. So lightening the striker is not the answer. Cleaning the striker channel probably is. Don't lube the striker channel at all. Leave it absolutely dry and clean. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted January 25, 2006 Share Posted January 25, 2006 (edited) *QUOTE* So lightening the striker is not the answer. The recommendation was with a OEM striker. Ti strikers are a whole new ballgame, and one that I'll avoid. If you want a light trigger without getting into some really exotic mods you need a striker spring lighter than 4lbs. If you do this and have problems try lightening the striker. Edited January 25, 2006 by the duck of death Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iainmcphersn Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 Not sure how the channel liner got damaged on my 17. I bought it used and wondered about it when the liner would come out with the firing pin assembly. Never thought about it until I put the trigger kit in and had several light strikes and a few NO strikes. (No primer hit although I know the striker was released.) Ordered a new liner ($2 part, $8 shipping, don't get me started...) and voila!!! No more light strikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugs Bunny Posted January 26, 2006 Share Posted January 26, 2006 "...with Winchester small pistol primers?" Have only used one K of WIN's and have been 100%. FED's otherwise. Find all kinds of crap in the channel at the breech-face end, tiny brass slivers/chips deritus residue both oily and dry, etc. Has become a part of regular maintience. Some think the rectangular slot of the striker's "window" in breech-face shaves off brass? Whatever, it gets in there somehow? Know many guys withOUT high round cont guns that have had to r/r the channel liner due to sluggish or intermittent light strikes. After all it's just a crap piece of pllastic, ain't it? Am of the opinion that the OEM dull gray spring along with a bit of residue as lapping compound is more than enough to really eat on the liner when it "slinky's" over it a few thousand times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wideload Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Got my kit today... Great instructions for installation of the new trigger in the frame (even for a non-engineer) ... took less than an hour. (would have taken less time if I knew beforehand how the firing pin assembly came apart) Lubed the new parts as instructed and cycled the slide and pulled the trigger maybe 50 times. Took it to a local USPSA match... Ran flawlessly. Had another shooter try it and it ran for him as well! Great kit! Great Price! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddy_fuentes Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 A friend of my has a gun and reloading store, so I told him about the 2# trigger info I had seen on this forum and asked him to order a few. I put one in my G22 and was so impressed that I bought another and put it in my G24. He has one in his G34 and although we have not tested the actual pull weight...all three are sweet. Thanks guys and girls, Buddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryucasta Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 (edited) I went ahead and purchased a Triggerkit for a G17 sized frame it since it has been receiving rave reviews on various forums and I really wanted to compare and contrast it to other Glock Trigger Jobs (CGR, DMW, NHO, Vanek) that I have had done over the years. The kit arrived by way of USPS and when I opened it was very well packaged and it even came with some unexpected gifts to be specific 3 IPSC Target Stickers. (Thanks Ralph!) The kit came with detailed instructions on how to disassemble the receiver and but I thought it was peculiar that no detailed instructions were provided on how to disassemble the slide and the striker, having said that though the instruction sheet does mention two sources for that information one is the (Glock) manual the other is the TopGlock info page. (www.topglock.com/info/info.htm) The Trigger Bar, Striker/Firing Pin Safety and the Scherer connector are highly polished. I also noticed that the Striker/Firing Pin Safety has been domed and its spring is of a shorter length than the stock part. These are features that I have found in some of the other trigger jobs that I have had done before. I went ahead and tested this trigger on two Glock’s. One is a G22 2nd generation frame and other is a G35 3rd generation frame. On the G35 it worked as advertised it came in at a little under 2.25 pounds and it worked reliably. Unfortunately when I tried it on the G22 it didn’t do as well. The trigger came in at the same weight but the trigger wouldn’t always reset. I had to do a partial racking of the slide for it to work. Based on my experience with this trigger kit I would recommend it to those who are on a tight budget and/or are using a 3rd gen G17 Sized frame. If cost is not a factor or you have a 2nd Generation frame then I would recommend the Vanek trigger instead. Anyway that’s my 2 cents. Edited January 28, 2006 by ryucasta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Kline Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 You know, its funny you guys are talking about light primer hits, because while shooting the Friday night IPSC match, I had a light primer strike w/ my G34. Now this is ironic because in TENS OF THOUSANDS of rounds, I have yet to have a malfunction of ANY kind with my G34. Out of no where, light primer strike. Now, it was only one and that's the only one I had, plus I found the round and the primer was a little high, and I mean A LITTLE. You couldnt even see it was high, you BARELY felt it. I just thought it was ironic on the timing of my malfunction and these posts. Have you guys had a lot of stuff in the firing pin channel (ie shavings, fouling, etc)? Funny thing is, I wasted about .75 of a second due to shock and almost not knowing what to do after having a malfunction (because I never get them, knock on wood) , but thats what you get for shooting a Glock. Federal primers are softer, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay1 Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Kevin, two points: The round that you found was slightly high, but that was after the striker already hit it and probably pushed it in some more. It was probably higher before it got whacked with the striker. Point two, yes Federals are softer. In "Front Sight" when they did the review of equipment used at Nationals for 2005, they said that Fed primers have surpassed Win primers in use in Production division. They also went on to guess at the reason why and postulated that the reason was the lightened trigger pulls being done in double action auto pistols. Everytime that I clean my gun I clean the striker channel. I shoot a G34 and like you it has been a solid performer. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRT Driver Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Kevin, Yes, Federal 100 primers are "lighter." The cup itself is acutally thinner. My chrono results show that the Federal and WSP are so close in velocity that they are interchangable. The only reason I shoot Federal is that I had 10 k of them on the bench. WSP do work well. On my 550, I find that "putting some arm" into primer seating relieves any high primer related problems. Never had any trouble and have not set one off either even with Federal NT brass which the primers won't seat. The primers deform in the NT cases and take A LOT of force to deform them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aggie dad Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Is there any problem in using a Wolf 15# recoil spring in conjunction with Ralph's kit with its reduced power striker spring? I have a G34 and shoot WWB and Blazer and am getting confused about which striker spring (heavier or lighter) works with a reduced power recoil spring? Thx, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimberkid Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Aggie~ I have a ISMI 15 lb spring and steel rod that I swap out with my stock rod and spring and I havent ever had a problem with either. I bought the 15#er to try and ended up not noticing a lot of difference and so I use the stock stuff and keep the 15#er and rod in the bag as a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugs Bunny Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 "I have a G34 and shoot WWB and Blazer and am getting confused about which striker spring (heavier or lighter) works with a reduced power recoil spring?" Uhhh, not to start contovercy but both you mention don't require a lighter recoil spring. FWIW, own 34 have a 15 Lb. Wolff and 4 Lb. striker spring in it for over 10K rounds before getting Ralph's kit with no problems with reloads at only 130-135 PF or ca 1,100 fps. Blazer is usually loaded pretty hot can't recall what WWB fly's at? Doubt you'll have any problem with a 15 Lb. spring and factory ammo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aggie dad Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Thanks Bugs/Kimberkid. I was wanting to try the 15 lb spring and steel rod to see if it reduces muzzle flip a little, or maybe with a tungsten rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay1 Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 I shot over 10,000 rounds of Blazer through my G34 with a reduced striker spring (4# Wolff) and a 13 pound ISMI recoil spring with no issues. The Blazer made 140 PF out of my G34. I'm now shooting Zero, 147 JHPs at 140 PF and love them. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
021411 Posted January 29, 2006 Share Posted January 29, 2006 Hey guys. Question about the trigger kit. Do I need to do anything to the factory 3.5# connector on the G35? Meaning do I need to polish it before installing the kit? Thanks. PS-Anyone try this combo with a Vanek housing? I'm assuming this combo is going to be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryucasta Posted January 29, 2006 Share Posted January 29, 2006 (edited) 021411, I have tried it with Vanek's and the original Glock Trigger housing that came with the guns when I did the test that I had posted earlier. I'll send you a PM with my number in case you would like to discuss this further offline. Here’s a breakdown of the parts and services that you will receive from Ralph and Charlie. G17 Sized Frames Ralph $65.00 Parts Polished Glock Trigger Bar Polished & Domed Firing Pin Safety Polished Scherer 3.5 Connector Competition Springs Vanek $185.00 Parts and labor Customized & Polished Glock Trigger Bar Polished & Domed Firing Pin Safety Polished Glock 3.5 Connector Competition Springs Polished Glock Striker/Firing Pin Customized Glock Trigger Housing Function test and test firing Both vendors stand by their product. The biggest draw back that I see with the Vanek trigger is that you have to ship it FedEx overnight with insurance. These shipping costs will increase your total outlay of cash by at least $90.00. That should change once Vanek starts selling his Drop In Trigger Kits. Edited January 29, 2006 by ryucasta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Kline Posted January 29, 2006 Share Posted January 29, 2006 Thanks Clay1, appreciate it. I didn't think about the primer being even higher than I felt b/c it got whacked by striker first. I havent had any issues in tens of thousands of rounds so I thought it wa a fluke thing. I'll prob start looking at Fed primers when I done w/ this lot of Win. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRT Driver Posted January 29, 2006 Share Posted January 29, 2006 Based on my experience with this trigger kit I would recommend it to those who are on a tight budget and/or are using a 3rd gen G17 Sized frame. If cost is not a factor or you have a 2nd Generation frame then I would recommend the Vanek trigger instead. I have a second gen, factory rebuilt G17 with the RS trigger and a 2nd Gen G24 with the same. Zero issues with either. I would highly recommend the RS trigger for 2nd gen and 3rd gen Glocks. FWIW, Glock changed trigger bars in the G##-111 series Glocks Make sure the style of the cruciform matches the original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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