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aggie dad

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Everything posted by aggie dad

  1. Doh! I just read the directions on the One Shot can and it says to stand the brass up and spray at 45 degree angle so that some lube goes into case mouth. Geez, somewhere I heard just the opposite. I will also polish the funnel with some Flintz and hopefully that will smooth things out. Thanks, Doug
  2. I am having the sticking problem with my 550B, loading .40 nickle brass. I do not have much of a bell and think I am ok there, however, when I lube my cases I stand the cases up with the open end down and therefore no lube is getting into the mouth of the case. Could that be the problem? Also, I suppose the powder funnel could be polished some more, but it looks to be in good shape. This is really annoying and it slows me down. Any other thoughts? Thanks, Doug
  3. Here are pics of my new SVI sight tracker; thank you Brandon! Hope this works, I am not very experienced in posting pics. Sorry, just can't seem to get these pics attached
  4. Per a previous Dillon post on lubing a 550, where/what is the connector body collar? "g) lightly grease rails on connector body collar h) lightly grease roller on connector body collar" I see the connector body collar listed in the Parts List as 21275, but am unable to find it pictured in the schematics Also, I ordered the aluminum roller handle today as that ball is killing my hand. Thanks, Doug
  5. Nick. With my KKM barreled Glock G20 firing .40 185 Precisions, using VVN320, I make major with 4.2 gr. Doug
  6. Well, it took me a while to follow-up on this reported issue, but after buying a chrono I got a chance to conduct a reshoot this morning. Good news is all my reloads with 4.2, 4.4 and 4.6 gr of N320, at 1.19 oal, .423 crimp all make major. Its a mind blower to me, how much softer these reloads are vs factory box ammo; boy have I ever been missing out on a major advantage Thanks again everyone for your assistance! Doug
  7. Although I am a relatively new shooter, I have shot several matches to date, and have been quite disappointed with my results (slow and poor accuracy), to the point of becoming demoralized. Admittedly, I have not done a lot of dry or live fire practice in between matches, but have always thought of myself as a decent athlete and assumed I would figure it out shortly. Unfortunately, it wasn't happening and I've continued to struggle mightedly doing the same thing over and over again, hoping for improvement. Today, I decided to go out and practice on some steel. Well, I started off with my usual slowness and quite a few misses to boot as I transitioned from one plate to the next. Then I finally realized that I have not been taking up the slack in the trigger and have simply been jerking almost every shot as I try to go fast (shooting a G34). Once I took the slack out before squeezing the trigger, I discovered my speed and accuracy sky-rocketed. I never fully appreciated that this fundamental could have such a dramatic impact . Also, I always wondered when others on the board have stressed the importance of, "see only what you need to see", which for me was a non existant concept as I've been shooting so slow. Now I am realizing what it means to see only what you need to see and to call your shots when transitioning from one target to another and I must say this has given my confidence a huge boost. Hopefully, I can get the trigger prep imprinted and will start to achieve much better results going forward. It is quite motivating when a new level of awareness kicks in . Doug
  8. Although I originally suspected a barrel problem, I believe the problem going on here is the chrono didn't function properly with the rounds shot from my G20. I don't think it is a sunlight issue since my reloaded rounds chronoed as expected from my buddies gun which was done immediately after we got the crazy velocity readings from the G20. As Dave Long advised, he believes it is probably the blast from the glock causing the chrono to trip prematurely. I appreciate everyones thoughts here, but until I can re-chrono at a greater distance and also include some factory rounds, we will only continue to speculate. Hopefully, I can get out early next week and test it again. I'll let you all know what happens. Sfinney, thanks, Dave also told me about using that peroxide/vinegar solution when I spoke to him, and it works beautifully, the G20s barrel is again pristine. Also my KKM barrel is a .40 barrel for use in a G20, its not a 10MM barrel. Thanks, Doug
  9. TRP, Look here, Dave at Precision is a great guy. http://www.precisionbullets.com/ Doug
  10. No, but we weren't looking for it either. I spoke to Kevin at KKM this morning, and next step is to chrono some factory ammo and see what happens. He thought that since I was using a Precision bullet, it may not be compatible with KKM barrel (too slippery). Then I spoke to David at Precision Bullets and he thinks it is most likely the muzzle blast from the glock that is confusing the chrono. Since the pistol recoil felt normal, and as Nick said above, the concussion from the glock may be whats going on here. Well in any event another chrono test is in order with both factory ammo and reloads, but will move further back 12-15 ft vs 8 ft. It may take me a while to get another chrono done, but I'll let everyone know what happens. Life is always interesting. Thanks, Doug
  11. Its not the chrono, we were about 8' away from the chrono and two other guns were also chrono'd under the same conditions without issue, including one other gun that was using my reloads. Also, my gun was not functioning properly either as it failed to return to battery on several rounds. The chrono session was also performed by a top notch female shooter since it was her chrono that was used.
  12. I did a chrono session today with my new limited G20 for the first time. Was shooting 185 precision bullets at 1.19 OAL, 4.2 gr VV N320 and was getting velocities in the high three hundreds (379, 393, etc.), while the same rounds where exceeding 900 fps in my buddies SVI. I am suspecting there is a problem with the .40/10 KKM barrel, as I don't know what else could cause such a dramatic difference. I am not sure if the chamber/barrel is too tight or too sloppy. Also, had some residue left behind the full length of the barrel that I couldn't clean out with my normal cleaning routine. I have emailed Kevin at KKM and am waiting to hear his thoughts. Anyone else have any ideas? Thanks, Doug
  13. Does anyone know if the CR Speed outer belts can be purchased separately or is it only possible to purchase the inner/outer as a set? If so where, cost?? Thanks, Doug
  14. Flex, Thanks for that formula, I didn't know that. The cases (Fed nickel) mike at .012 and the bullets are .401. I am using Precision's moly coated 185 gr which are lead. If memory serves me correctly, I believe someone else on here was also crimping precision 185s at .423. When I push the bullet firmly against a hard service, the OAL does not move. Thanks, Doug
  15. Well the problem is solved . When I miked the problem bullets, I noticed the crimp was at .424 vs the others that were at .423, so I ratcheted down the crimp die a thad and the offenders are now at .423 and they drop beautifully into the barrel. Its hard to believe that .001 could have that effect. I may still order an FCD, but sorry to be sending everyone on a wild goose chase. I think it was HK Dan that mentioned paying attention to the crimp die. Thanks, Doug
  16. Weird. I don't know why your decapper would do that. I'm not feeling much confidence there ? I noted that the Lee instructions that came with the EGW u-die said that the decapper should be set flush with the decapper clamp (nut). Since the EGW u-die is essentially a ground down Lee U-die would that mean that the decapper should protrude above the nut and not be set flush? Perhaps that is causing it to release prematurely when I adjust the die to be touching the shell plate??? Does anyone know how much is actually ground off the bottom of EGW version (therefore I am guessing the decapper should protrude by this amount above the clamp)? Sorry for all the questions, but as a newbie I never anticipated running into these type of issues. Also, apparently my brass has not been case rolled as it has no such fine scatches as Merlin pointed out; don't think I will purchase from that source again. Thanks, Doug
  17. My u-die is an EGW version. Flex, I am having a hard time understanding how this could potentially be a barrel issue when some of the rounds chamber fine; that said I did have an experienced buddy help me dial in the dies and my EGW is set a hair off from touching the shell plate because my decap pin kept releasing when it was touching the shell plate
  18. Thanks Harmon, I will pick up an FCD. On the case lube, I was using oneshot, but maybe I didn't put enough on.
  19. I recently purchased a used 550B. When I received it, it did not have the small primer bar, so I called Dillon to order a replacement. I certainly did not have an expectation that this would be covered under their warranty. Dillon has been very helpful in answering my questions and they/BE also ship incredibly fast. I am very happy with their support! Doug
  20. Dan, I suspect that some of the Federal nickel plated brass that I am using was previously fired thru a glock, and that coupled with a rather tight KKM barrel, is causing this issue. I am going to see if these problem rounds chamber in my buddies SVI as an additional test, but I believe to shoot from the KKM barrel, I am going to need the Lee FCD for final crimp & sizing as others have suggested. Thanks, Doug
  21. I am using a u-die in station 1 and it is almost touching the shell plate, perhaps it will be necessary to go with the Lee FCD in station 4, as several folks have suggested. Also, I am assuming the brass is the problem as none of the rounds at this length are engaging the rifling; is that a good assumption??? I have only loaded 10 test rounds thus far, and 3 out of the ten would not drop into the barrel. Should case rolled once fired brass be having this problem??? Thanks, Doug
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