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Great 2# Drop In Triogger Kit!


Adam B

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I just want to give some thanks to Ralph Sotelo for his excellent 2# drop in trigger kit I just picked up from him. Becasue of the kit I was able to take first in our local steel plate shoot last week. If you want a great trigger kit at a great price here is his email address 2lbdropkit@sbcglobal.net.

Here is a link to his website http://www.geocities.com/2lbdropkit@sbcglobal.net/

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Can you tell me what the kit consists of? I have done the DYI trigger job with 3.5# connector and LW overtravel stop, and am simply looking to buy a re-drilled trigger bar. Is this the ticket? I am not yet ready for a full-on Vanek job. Thanks,

-joker22

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Can you tell me what the kit consists of?  I have done the DYI trigger job with 3.5# connector and LW overtravel stop, and am simply looking to buy a re-drilled trigger bar.  Is this the ticket?  I am not yet ready for a full-on Vanek job.  Thanks,

-joker22

His kit comes with 3 new springs for the striker, trigger and safety plunger, a modified and polished safety plunger & a shortened and re-drilled trigger-bar. Can get the kit with or without the 3.5 connector.

There s no overtravel or pretravel mod/adj as he feels it is not needed. After 1K+ rounds thru a 34 with his kit can agree. His kit removes the "Mush" of Glock's 3.5 conn. and its never-know-when its-going to-break feel. Has a consistant smooth and linear letoff/break with exceptional "feel" and control. There is no way one can compare his trigger to a simple polsih job and conn. replacement. Obviously has taken the time and effort to tune these parts. For the $ it's a great value and saves a lot of headaches of cutting and drilling. It has completely changed the shooting characteristics and accuracy potential of my 34 in IDPA, etc. even with it being fairly highly modified before.

Comes with exc. instructions and Ralph is very willing to ans. Email in good detail.

Best 50 Bucks have ever spent on Glock Guts!

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Drilling the back of the trigger bar IS a pain. I've asked around some and yes this does sound like a very good bargain. You might try combining it with Vanek's ejector housing with front & back stops.

For the primo nice Glock trigger you still want to speak with Charlie Vanek or Tom Novak but this one is pretty good. I would charge more to sell the same thing.

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  His kit removes the "Mush" of Glock's 3.5 conn. and its never-know-when its-going to-break feel.  Has a consistant smooth and linear letoff/break with exceptional "feel" and control.

Ralph's trigger has a two stage feel to it. The take up is light and the striker release is noticable, unlike the standard "mushy all the way through" feel with a 3 1/2 lb connector.

FWIW, I did a trigger job with a 5 1/2 lb connector to get the same feel. Mine broke at 3 3/4 lb. Ralph's does it at 2 lb, on the nose.

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Kinda amazing that you can get it with a worked trigger bar for $65 and it is about $40 or so worth of parts. SRT and Ralph worked together on the trigger that is in my G34, as their first one. Now about 10-12K later it is just as butter slick as always. I've shot Vanek's and Rhea's, and they are both nice triggers. I also dont mind spending good money to get the best. If I had to do it again, my money would go to Ralph without a second thought.

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I agree, some of the glock trigger jobs leave a very vague feel... I shoot a 8lb connector with a redrilled trigger bar and trigger hole... Gets me a 2lb trigger with a very single action feeling trigger... Light take up with a wall then it breaks about as crisp as a glock can get... For $50 I might just order the parts and try them out for the hell of it.... Always good to have some spares laying around anyway...

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"...my money would go to Ralph without a second thought."

So if both of you know Ralph, how critical is the positioning of the new hole in the T-bar? {only out of knowledge curiosity}

"The take up is light..."

Mine actually increased with his trigger kit but it was not stock before. Pretty certain understand why he did what he did to compensate for the 3.5's infamous Mush, in part, so it may be relative. None the less, this is not criticizim. Really exceptionally happy with his work.

Have an RCBS recording trigger pull guage and while it's obviously difficult to measure a Glock, it doesn't matter as the feel and break is so good.

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Got my 2lb trigger kit from Ralph today...It's pretty sweet and breaks at 2lbs as advertised. I'd say it would be pretty hard to beat this deal for the price.

I don't have a 5lb connector to try, but it would be nice to see the difference in feel. I prefer a stronger reset than this current configuration has but I can't argue with a 2lb break.

FWIW..Ralph's turnaround time on orders is fast.

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How does this trigger compare to Vanek's trigger? Which one would you prefer? Is there really a big difference between a 2 lb or 1.5 lb trigger? I am interested in seeing what others have to say. Thanks in advance.

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On a scale of 1-10 a Vanek is a 10. A Ralph trigger is a 9.5. The difference is $190 and with a Ralph trigger you dont lose your gun for a couple weeks while the work is being done. Their is very little difference in a 1.5 to a 2 lb. trigger. My 34 has the second trigger Ralph ever did (2nd to his own) and I'll put mine up against a Vanek any day to see which one most people will shoot better. BTW, the ones he makes now have gotten even better. Ralph went from Unclassified to Master in 1.5 years and while I know its the shooter and not the gun, you aint gonna make that with gear that dont work.

$190 will buy almost 2,000 rounds of factory 9mm. Is a .5lb lighter trigger gonna help you more than 2,000 rounds of practice??

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Ordered one of these myself. My current trigger with a 4# reduced striker spring in a G34 and polishing goes 2.75 pounds. Bluntly 3/4 of a pound for $50 sounds like a real winner to me.

I hope that it really drops the 3/4 of a pound but will be happy if it drops 1/2 pound. I am using the stock trigger spring and stock plunger button spring and the trigger bar isn't drilled so these three additions should be an improvement over what I have now.

How hard is it to get the trigger off of the bar in the first place? I know that there are instructions in the kit, but I have never disconected the trigger bar from the trigger.

Rick

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You don't have to remove the trigger from the bar... It is blind pinned in.. You replace the whole trigger and bar assembly with the kit.... You can remove the trigger if you really wanted to by drilling out the blind side of the pin and punching it out.... Joe D has posted some info on that mod.. Not for the faint of heart...

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On a scale of 1-10 a Vanek is a 10. A Ralph trigger is a 9.5. The difference is $190 and with a Ralph trigger you dont lose your gun for a couple weeks while the work is being done. Their is very little difference in a 1.5 to a 2 lb. trigger. My 34 has the second trigger Ralph ever did (2nd to his own) and I'll put mine up against a Vanek any day to see which one most people will shoot better. BTW, the ones he makes now have gotten even better. Ralph went from Unclassified to Master in 1.5 years and while I know its the shooter and not the gun, you aint gonna make that with gear that dont work.

$190 will buy almost 2,000 rounds of factory 9mm. Is a .5lb lighter trigger gonna help you more than 2,000 rounds of practice??

The difference is in the reset... The Vanek trigger has a really short takeup and reset.... Ralph's trigger retains stock takeup and reset....

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As a former (maybe some day again) GlockJockey, listen to me when I say -you can't make a Glock trigger feel like a 1911. In the heat of battle, you won't be able to tell the difference between a 2.5 and a 3.5 Glock trigger, yet the difference in potential reliability between the two pull weights is astronomical.

Take this for for what your BE.com admission price is worth, shoot your Glock as close to factory as possible.

That being said, I still have a Glock20 in the safe with a 1.75# trigger that I'll in-frequently dust off to shock-the-system. Yet if I were to shoot a major with it, I'd go back to 3.5# in a heart beat.

It's not the equipment, it's the _______ ! (guess) :)

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I have a really hard time calling Ralph's trigger stock in regard to take up and reset. It sure dont feel like it. Like I said, I'll put mine up against a Vanek and see which one most people shoot better, not which one is lighter. Mine has seen enough trouble free rounds now that I'll never question a 2 lb. Glock reliability.

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Slightly off topic info....

I agree with tdean regarding pull weights.... I had shot my g22 with factory .40 ammo for 3 years without a failure to fire. Reduced power striker spring with a 1.75lb trigger. Probably right around 40,000 rounds. My major 9 converted g22 on the other hand gave me problems from the get go... Maybe its because I was handloading ammo but any other caliber or pistol I've never had a problem. I'd get 1 or 2 every hundred rounds. Some days I would get 2 or 3 out of one 28 round mag. I went back to a modified stock striker spring and started using fsp's and the problems went away. I've shot right around 6-7k through it now without a problem... The trigger pull with the modifed striker spring is right around 2.75lbs and it has been totally reliable.

I did get to shoot one of the Vanek trigger's a couple of months ago and it was too vague for my taste. Learn to shoot it heavy and you then you can shoot them all:)

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I have a really hard time calling Ralph's trigger stock in regard to take up and reset. It sure dont feel like it. Like I said, I'll put mine up against a Vanek and see which one most people shoot better, not which one is lighter. Mine has seen enough trouble free rounds now that I'll never question a 2 lb. Glock reliability.

When I say stock I mean an unmodified take up and reset... There are no setscrews to reduce take up and reset so I consider it stock...

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IMHO, the more people that come up with different ideas on how to work a Glock trigger the better.

No, a Glock is never going to be the same as a 1911, but from experience, Charlie's trigger feels different from Ralph's, which feels different from Dale's and the .25 cent DIY job.

The weight of the pull does not affect reliablity IF it is done right.

It's all about what you want in a trigger and the more options that are available..the better.

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